Red spider on my cedars?! S O S

Cincinnati (Anderson, OH(Zone 6a)

Hi, everyone--

I have large portions of bronzey brown foliage on my shrubs along with spider webs. Looks like spider mites to me, right?

Last week I sprayed with a solution of water and dish soap. This week the shrubs look worse.

Should I try another treatment --perhaps a miticide or neem oil--or do you think it's too late and I should go ahead and yank them and start over?

Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks. t.

Thumbnail by tabasco
Cincinnati (Anderson, OH(Zone 6a)


The other shrub...

Thank you. t.

Thumbnail by tabasco
Peterstown, WV(Zone 6a)

OOOO! That looks nasty! I would try something, but don't know what. I hope you get some advice (suggestions) soon!

Illinois, IL(Zone 5b)

You have an advanced, perhaps terminal, case on that first plant, and you need to jump all over the second one before it gets any worse. Use a miticide (a treatment designed specifically for mites) because most insecticides only kill the predatory insects that might help control the mites. And before you do that, use your garden hose to physically blast off as many as you can.

Guy S.

Northumberland, United Kingdom(Zone 9a)

Spruces (dwarf Alberta Spruce, to be exact), not cedars. I'd agree with Guy - blast them with water from a pressure hose regularly, and use a miticide.

Resin

Denver, CO

This had been super common here in CO, the plants had mites after suffering from drought stress. The CSU extension suggested spraying it with a hard stream of water to knock the mites off for a start and make sure the plants were irrigated properly to prevent future problems.
Then apply a good miticide.

What miticide would you guys recommend?
A nice Blush, Merlot, Champaign, or Mead?
K

Cincinnati (Anderson, OH(Zone 6a)


Thanks. Just as I thought. Terminal case. Went out and blasted with water. Will go out and get some miticide tomorrow a.m. and try to rescue. Not a lot of hope for them, though.

Thanks for all the good info. t.

Beautiful, BC(Zone 8b)

We don't or rarely use the Alberta Spruce for this very reason. It always goes dead on one side from spidermites. Blasting it with water over a few days will reduce the number of mites. I also think its a remove and replace.

Denver, CO

Allium are better, anyhow, eh Tabasco?

Illinois, IL(Zone 5b)

Say, I just thoughta sumthin: if you have a "spider"-mite problem, maybe you oughta ask White Hydrangea about it! She knows all about arachnids!
Hee-hee-hee!
;-)

Denver, CO

You are terrible.

Hendersonville, NC(Zone 7a)

I've been madly battling spider mites here lately, on this year's newly planted shrubs and vines. Have been using Safer's Soap, which works well on individual patches of webbing - but gets pricey with the volume of plants I've needed to spray. A friend who's fought the battle in past years told me Murphy's Oil Soap, diluted 10:1, will also work on mites; I've been trying that this week, since it's a whole lot more affordable. Have also ordered green lacewing eggs from Gardens Alive, since they're said to love to munch on mites; they can have an all-you-can-eat buffet here! Good luck, tabasco!

Cincinnati (Anderson, OH(Zone 6a)


Thanks, everyone.

This is not the first year we have had to deal with it, but it's the first year it's been so bad. I suppose in part because I have cut back on watering and the shrubs got stressed out in the heat and were more susceptable. If I blast away or 'miticide' the infected plants will they green up again, or is that section destined to be dead?

I was reluctant to spray them with chemicals because I've been trying to have a wildlife and butterfly garden and want to be somewhat more 'natural'---

Since spruces/arborvitae(?) are known to be prone to the spider mites and I will probably replace them--does anyone know what is a better choice along the lines of the evergreen family?

But I don't know, JamesCO, as fun as the alliums are, I'm not sure they are substitutes! LOL

You can see the location of the first shrub between the two tall trees. The second tall shrub is in front of the house (and there are three of these at least)....

Thanks again. t.

Thumbnail by tabasco
Denver, CO

Taxus? I have no clue how drought-tolerant they are, though.

Cincinnati, OH

Arachnophobia or Iraqnophobia?

Cincinnati, OH(Zone 6b)

Taxus in our area would serve only as a second course to hostas for the behooved tawny masses. I'm always a fan of broadleaved evergreens. Hollies, a few viburnums, nandina, mahonia, a few barberries, PJM rhodies, boxwoods, but certainly there are many very cool dwarf conifers.

I don't think annual applications of systemic miticides to a few selected plants are too detrimental (if at all) to beneficial insect life, including butterflies and moths.

Scott

Metairie, LA

I lost my entire allee' of arborvitae of about 26 mature trees with that sort of thing. No one could ever diagnose it.

Scott County, KY(Zone 5b)

tabasco:

One select idea: Sciadopitys verticillata.

Also, if you embark on long term control program against mites, make sure you vary your choice of chemicals to avert generating resistance to the pesticide.

When I used to have to do this regularly (10-15 years past), we'd alternate between three different miticides.

I'd also hazard the recommendation to the adventurous home-remedy types: try your concoction on a small part of the target plant first, on the chance that the plant (not just the pest) may have an adverse reaction to the off-label use.

Cincinnati, OH

The cheapest miticide would be sulfur. There is a TSC store SE of Tobasco Road. It should be about $3/4libras. The tricky part is that mites live on the bottom.
I have chemicals closely related to some miticides. They work on
Botrytris, (unknown) Leaf Spot and are being tested on Phytophthora. They are safe on Rhododendrons and Hollies. They may kill some grasses. Let me know if the sulfur does not work.
Larry

Post a Reply to this Thread

Please or sign up to post.
BACK TO TOP