Growing Viburnum from seed.

I found some Rusty BlackHaw seed at Sheffield's that I want to buy. But, do the seeds need to overwinter? Winter is over here. Can I just go ahead and plant the seeds in pots outside or do I need to refrigerate them first? I would rather buy some plants that are already growing but I am spending too much money on landscaping and thought this would be a cheaper way (maybe get more plants too).

Hi Expatriate,

From Dirr and Heuser:
...requires a warm stratification of 6-17 months followed by 3-4 months of cold stratification.

If it were me, this is what I would do. I would order the seeds. Then I would halfway fill two ziplock baggies with damp, sterile sand, and put half the seeds in each baggie. One bag would then go in the fridge while the other bag went to an out of the way room temperature place. In mid-June, I would take the warm bag and put it in the fridge and the fridge bag I would put in the warm. And then keep an eye on them. If nothing happened in three months, I'd put them both in the fridge and not take them out until next spring.

Be sure to trap a little air in the baggies, and open the baggies occasionally to change the air. Watch for fungus.

I have had some viburnums germinate the first spring after a fall sowing. Even some viburnums that don't know normally do this may still throw up a few seedlings the first spring and the rest the following year.

Scott

You know, why am I nodding my head here at the insane discriptions of starting Viburnum seeds. When do I do the "hokey pokey" and when do I turn myself about? Scott, you were on a road trip with V2. I am very worried about you both. Ken

Scott:

I do 60 days each, and just keep doing it until something happens!

Candlewick,

Insane descriptions? I am confused. I don't know what to say. My descriptions seemed so reasonable to me.

Or, perhaps, I am a lost soul, having become so swept up in a world of double dormancies, impermeable seedcoats, and germination inhibitors that insane seems normal and normal seems insane.

If so, so be it. I've found something that makes me happy, I'm almost good at it, and it keeps me off the streets and out of trouble.

I'm of two minds on Kernel's suggestion of a 60 day cycle. I like it because it is easy, rememberable, and it probably works. I might not like it because I have read and heard that lengthening the duration of your cycles sometimes reduces the need for multiple cycles. So, for instance, if a seed normally needs two winters before it germinates, giving it one long artificial winter might reduce that to one. Your call.

The one thing I would be careful of, however, is to try not to bring your seeds to warmth (70F, which is the temperature they will probably germinate at) so late in the season that they'll germinate before they can produce growth and harden tissues before winter (unless you can protect them in a greenhouse in winter).

Scott

Sheffields is located in NY, they probably keep these seeds in an unheated warehouse. Would that be enough cold? I may have to call them and ask them.

Stratification normally requires both cold (40F) and moisture. What happens during this time is a chemical change within the seed that enables germination. Dry cold storage may preserve the life of the seeds longer than dry warm storage, but generally does not allow for the necessary chemical processes that push the seed towards readiness.

Scott

Okay , I may try that with the ziploc bags then.