I really hesitate to try new things. I need some patting on the back with "It's OK" spoken softly. I know that some of you use oil soap and lysol along with fertilizer in the water to water av's. Before I begin adding the lysol and oil soap I have a concern. How much do I use for a continual wicking system?
I know that fertilizer should be reduced by half if you continually wick. Does the same apply to lysol and oil soap? Instead of 1 tsp of each per gallon, should I reduce it to 1/2 teaspoon?
Sorry to bore everyone with repeating the information on some of the threads. I do need some reassurance. Thanks
Ready Set Almost GO
nanna, I am like that too. I tried the murphys oil soap and so far so good. fewer gnats. but i did it pretty quick before there was a big problem, anyway. : )
I have just finished 6 weeks of treating for thrips and mites. Small infestation with only a few plants involved, but I treated my whole collection. Took forever. Now I want to start a prevention routine. Again, I am open to suggestions.
When you used the soap did you spray the plants or did they drink it with the water?
edited to read spray
This message was edited Feb 28, 2006 9:36 PM
This message was edited Feb 28, 2006 9:37 PM
Like Nana, I would like to know what to do before you get an infestation.
I usually have a few fungus gnats flying around the house and whenever I see one, I worry. So I make sure that I keep the Diatomaceous Earth within reach. Ever since I had that terrible infestation a year or so ago, I have made sure to keep the DE on everything. I saw one flying around in my little mini greenhouse yesterday, so I set a trap for him. What I do is take a little saucer of soil, mist it to get it nice and moist, and then sprinkle the DE on top. That way, the little fungus gnats will go to spend some time in the moist soil hotel, they check in but they never check out. LOL But seriously, I do put a little saucer of moist soil around with some DE on it and it takes care of the fungus gnats. And sometimes I just mist the saucer with DE on it to keep it moist to attrack them. I have found that the DE works wonders. I have not had an infestation of them since I started using it.
I have tried the Murphy's Oil Soap before and it seemed to have worked. Most of the time I do pretty well keeping all of the pests away. And I agree with Allison on isolation of new plants. Last year someone sent me a plant and it had aphids and something else. I put it in with my other plants and I wound up having to spray every single plant that I had. So that is a very good idea, isolating new plants from the rest.
JesseK
Jesse, I like your idea of the DE trap for gnats! That would take care of the pots that haven't yet had my new potting mix with added DE.
Nanna, I've been using the Murphy's at 1 capful per gallon on all my plants, whether bottom watered, wicked, or in self watering pots. No ill effects except maybe once on some newly planted leaf cuttings... and I've noticed that I need to be really careful about keeping it off white variegated foliage, or it leaves brown spots (even if I blot it right off).
Thanks Jill
Have you ever used lysol?
nope... I may look for some, although I'm really not fond of the smell.... I'm assuming there's a standard variety, that it doesn't come in a dozen different forms to choose between.
I knew that. Sorry for being so dense. The lysol I got is lemon scented. Do you think that matters?
I wouldn't think so, but again, I'm hoping somebody who actually uses the stuff will weigh in here.
Lemon scented would matter to me, though -- instant migraine! Orange is fine, but lemon or citronella will send me running from a room.
Testing it out on just one plant before using it on all of them makes sense regardless.
good thinking. I'm trying to work up the courage to start.
No it will be Ok. Though I like it when hubby buys original Lysol he does not. I think I have lemon now. Your only using a capful per gallon so the smell is not real bad. I can't have the lemon touch my skin it will break out but pouring into plants is fine.
Thanks for the encouragement. I will add 1capful of lysol, 1 capful Oil soap, 1 drop thrive and 1/4 teaspoon fertilizer to 1 gal of water. All my plants need water and the same time.
You guys are freaking me out giving the AV lysol and murphy oil soap.
Well I have used the Murphy's Oil Soap and it worked fine for me. But I was advised to add something lemon scented because they bugs don't like it for some reason. And make sure it is not the antibacterial stuff. I was told that would hurt the plants. So when I had my outbreak, I mixed Murphy's Oil Soap and Lemon fresh Joy. That worked fine for me. I actually like the smell of the Murphy's Oil Soap. It leaves a nice clean fresh scent to me.
JesseK
Well I don't use it all at one time. During the winter if needed I use Lysol. When I use Murphy's I don't use LYsol. I have used fertilizer with Murphy's. I don't use Superthrive.
Be careful you don't ove does your plants this can give you signs of mites also.
Am I understanding everything?
The lysol is for algae
The Murphy's is for bugs
Thrive is a suppliment to the fertilizer
Yes the Lysol kills fungusm mildew , algea. Some people mist it over plants if they have mildew.
Murphy's kills soft body bugs/ Dish soap blue dawn is best works too
And me I don't use superthrive did a couple years ago and did not like it.
My plants grow like weeds anyways . lol
Thanks Allison.
Here is what I have done. I chose 3 plants. I used the solution and watered one from the top, one from the bottom and filled the wicking well of the third. I am going to wait for 24 hours and see what happens.
I changed the "capfull" to 1 teaspoon because different sized bottles have different sized caps.
Thanks everyone for walking through this with me. I hate to say it, but some of my violets have almost become like children to me. I would really feel bad if I loose them.
Been reading this with much interest as I see an occasional gnat buzzing around, too. I think I'll try it too (Murphys, that is). Thanks for the info, guys 'n dolls!
P.S. This gets me to thinking.....in preparation for the big Spring Trade (or any trade you have going on for that matter), is there a "preventative routine" we might all want to put our plants through before sending them off? Don't want to GET or GIVE any nasties with my trades. Just a thought....
Great Question.
We all know isolation when we get the trades.
But
What can we do before shipping and beginning right now to help prevent any problems?
Hi Betty nice to see you !
Bath and clean and inspect your plants ! Always keep plants groom removing dead blooms and old foliage.
Isolation very important. Murphy's oil soap good. I've also been spraying all plants and leaves down with neem oil but also putting it into the plant pot directly.
Don't send anyone a plant or leaf that you would not want to get your self. Package plants save so when people get them their not covered with dirt ... Wash plant leaves and water plants two days before cutting.
Please keep adding to this !
I'd like to share something about the spray Lysol (can),
I use this on begonias - no ill effects, but sprayed too much on an av and it turned all the flowers brown overnight and I lost 3/4 of the foliage, the crown seems ok. But it was a pretty full (yet young) plant.
Luckily it was a super market AV for $2 but I then learned from my AVSA (and as Allison states above) MIST is the key word here. Not saturate.
So you gently wave the can over the plants (and ok to spray the walls near your AV stands too) and allow a mist to cover the plants. (also never hurts to do a 'test' plant first, not the whole collection)
Just don't want anyone to do what I did (in this case Less is More!)
Thanks for the concern. My plan is to add the lysol to the water before watering the violets. I have a very big problem with algae build up in the wicking wells. My hope is the lysol will prevent this
sounds like you're doing great Nanna.
I think aquarium stores might also sell something that you put into freshwater tanks to keep unicellular algae in check but that is safe for other plants.... obviously, they aren't likely to have included AVs in the "other plants" they tested, but since the algae you're concerned with is in your wicking wells rather than on the soil surface, this might be just the ticket. (I'm not sure if the concentration would be sufficient to kill algae on the surface of the potting mix... different sort of application.)
What kind of lysol will you add to your water? Spray can or some that comes in the bottle that you mix with water. I think this is a good idea but not sure of how to do it.
JesseK
Nanna and others if your wanting to buy something this is best thing for your Av's
Physan 20
Greenhouse
Disinfectant
PHYSAN 20? is a broad range disinfectant, fungicide, virucide, and algaecide which effectively controls a wide variety of pathogens on hard surfaces and plants
http://homeharvest.com/diseaseandfungus.htm
But if you don't want to spend $$$ and shipping $$$
Lysol is best ! Kills fungus and germs algea in seconds. I buy the liquid and pour it into drink water for my plants and leaves. I have only needed it in the winter. Some people put in spray bottles and mist ove plants for mildew .
It's cheap , no shipping and works good. I'm wondering if it have plant food in it my plants and babies grew like weeds this winter !
Thanks Allison. I think I will stick to lysol. So far there has been no wilting. I'm working on a shelf at a time
I like Jesse's idea about DE - I need to go buy a salt shaker for it - that was you that told us about the salt shaker idea??
I thought DE needed to be dry to work ?
to apply - I think it's easier when dry - but the material itself is sharp and cuts the bodies of the bugs
Yes I understand that part but when it's in the soil does it not have to be dry to work ? I read up on it one time I'll have read up on it again.
Also what about the eggs ?
won't do anything to the eggs - that's where your other treatments come in.
It is a non-toxic, safe substance made up from crushed fossils of freshwater organisms and marine life. Crushed to a fine powder and observed through a microscope, the particles resemble bits of broken glass. Deadly to any insect and completely harmless to animals, fish, fowl or food. Most insects have a waxy outer shell covering their bodies, INSECT STOP scratches through this shell causing the insect to dehydrate leading to eventual death.
Diatomaceous Earth mode of action for insect and parasite control is strictly mechanical. The microscopically sharp edges contact the insect or parasite, and pierce their protective coating, so they soon dehydrate and die. The larvae is affected in the same way. This makes Diatomaceous Earth an excellent and totally natural control, with no indicating of mechanical or chemical damage to the animal tissue. It can be used as a dust for fleas, lice and other external pests by rubbing into the coat of the animal.
High Absorption: Diatomaceous Earth can generally absorb up to 1 times, its own weight in liquid and still exhibit the properties of dry powder.
This message was edited Mar 3, 2006 3:56 PM
WOW Neat Thanks Anita :)) I know a lot of people put it in their soil-less mixture.
I thought one Vendor told me she uses it in her soil, and top waters and keeps her plants on the dry side so it works properly.
I love google
I'd like to share some info from my seminar last night at the Begonia convention. I know lots of you like to use non-chemical whenever possible.
Dr. Rheka Morris (a brilliant begoniac with an incredible collection at a university in SC) says she buys and uses powdered Neem that can be bought at an Indian Food ethnic type grocery store, as well as kelp on all her plants both at home and the university.
Her proportions are approximately (she said they are not very scientific here)
1/2 tsp. powdered neem per gallon
and
1 Tbs. liquid kelp per gallon of water.
ALL her plants get this for bugs, specifically mealies, white fly and MITES. I specifically asked about cyclamen mites and she stated that she has not a mite one on her cyclamens or others.
The difference between the powdered neem and the oil you buy is the process by which it's made. The oil comes from pods (i believe or seeds - some type of the fruit, please correct me because I cant remember)
The powdered neem comes from the leaves - has been used in India for ever and is MUCH more mild than the oil (not toxic or harsh). She states it's too harsh for her begonias (I never had an issue, but I believe her)
and given that, I believe AV's are more tender than Begonias.
This cocktail is the water she uses to water plants.
Additionally, the speaker for Logees Greenhouses said that they use Tallus and have eliminated completely 3 of the 6 common bugs that plague our plants.
Rheka collects begonia species from all over the world and has an amazing collection!
This message was edited Mar 3, 2006 2:51 PM
I use to put kelp meal and worm casting into my soil-less mixture. !
Laurie the powdered neem good. Where do we get it? I sprayed the Begonias you sent me a couple times top bottom you name it I spray it. lol Leaves I get, plants, into the water into soil from top. But the smell is bothering me bad even when I don't Spray just water. But I am sensitive to fumes and supose to stay at least 30 feet away from fumes, smoke, people sick..
I wonder if this powdered neem would be better ? Also I wonder if it could be put into the soil and when it got wet it would work also or just watered in ?
They had a thing on Begoinias on TV tonight and it said Begonias are rarely bothers by pest !
If the powdered neem can be at a food store do they use it for medicine or eatting ?
I wonder if there's a way to buy it on line ? Sounds safe and easy to use !
Looking forward to hearing and learning more from your convention !
Thanks, Laurie
PS Laurie I don't know why my phone is not ringing going right into voice mail. Hubby fixed it had it ringing last night but today back to not ringing. So if you just get my voice mail don't worry I'm always here when ever you get here or and I will call you back.
I'll ask Rheka tonight a bit more about it. Do a google search on neem (botanical name Azadirachta indica)
They've used it for 2000 years in India, as a supplement to humans as well.
gotta run they open the plant sale to ABS members in one hour.
I know it's more mild than the oil (which can be problematic for some -health wise)
I was looking in an old Av mag. from 1985 and it even recomended Misty plants with Lysol to halpe prevent mildew. Ti also recomended Physan 20
It also said about Prevention Spraying
That there is no sound reason to use a spray for nothing but the sake of using it. Why subject your plants to the spray when there is no infestation. If you are a good grower you know the slightest change in growth habit . This prevention , good observation and isolating new plants. Scientific technology will never take the place of basic common sense.