Any favorite climbing roses for zone 9? or warmer?

Stanford, CA(Zone 9b)

I would love a climbing rose for a south facing wall, I want it to rebloom and be disease resistant. Well this is California with hot days and cool nights as you all know. I can't seem to stay away from leaf spot and powdery mildew here.

Any suggestions?

This is 'Hot Cocoa' and indeed it does get black spot regularly - but I had to get your attention some way. :-)

Thumbnail by doss
Mesilla Park, NM

This climber has been doing fantastic for us here in this heat, all year for that matter. I do not trim it unless I can't get to my car..lol I just love it.

Golden Showers

Thumbnail by Gourd
Mesilla Park, NM

Here's one more.. it photographs well too.. I can't take pictures worth a hoot really.

Thumbnail by Gourd
Stanford, CA(Zone 9b)

Gourd, You do just fine - and that's a beautiful rose too. Thank you for the suggestion and the photos.

Northern California, CA

I guess it would depend on what color and style you want, but Altissimo would get my vote for classic single, carefree red.

aka: Altus
DELmur
Sublimely Single

Breeding: Bred in France (1966) by DELBARD. Introduced in England (1966) by Cuthbert.

Bloom: Medium red [ARS mr] blooms. Mild, Clove fragrance. 7 petals. Average diameter 5".

Large, cupped-to-flat, single bloom form.
Repeats its bloom again later in the season.

Size: Height of 7' to 15' . Width of 8' .

Growing: Zone 5 thru 9. Shade Tolerant,

Disease susceptibility: Disease resistant.

Parentage: Ténor x Seedling

http://davesgarden.com/pf/go/64225/index.html

Stanford, CA(Zone 9b)

Beautiful - I knew that I'd have some deciding problems.. I do love the single form and the clove fragrance. The dark foliage is really nice too. What are the white flowers you are growing with it?

Temecula, CA(Zone 8b)

Altissimo in bloom.

Be well doss,
Don

Thumbnail by drdon
Northern California, CA

It's Jasminum polyanthum - Pink Jasmine.

Thumbnail by Happenstance
Temecula, CA(Zone 8b)

Jas poly....mmmmm, very sniffy.

Northern California, CA

Indeed it is Dr. D!

By the by I did make it to Annie's last weekend with my daughter for the Mother's Day Sale......saw several very nice flats of Salvia sagittata! Yeah, several very nice flats. Those flats sure were nice. :-)

Problem is the plants were an inch tall and an inch wide and they wouldn't even let me buy any because they literally had NO roots.....well I'm sure they had roots albeit microscopic!!

So my guess is it surely will be another couple of months before UC or Annie's has any good sized plants.

San Leandro, CA(Zone 9b)

I only have experience with 2 climbers and I am thrilled with both. I have had Eden Climber over an arbor now for 3 years. It is a fast grower. What I like about it is the flowers take so long to open and go thru all their stages before they finally die. It seems very disease resistant. It is incredibly showy! Great repeat blooming.

Thumbnail by Kell
San Leandro, CA(Zone 9b)

The other is Royal Sunset and it is orange with some yellow in the inner petals. It blooms profusely. I have it sprawling over a lathe.

Thumbnail by Kell
San Leandro, CA(Zone 9b)

I forgot, I just planted 2 High Society Climbing roses last year. I do not even have it trained yet on an arbor. I also have 2 4th of July roses, in their second year. I love this rose. It blooms all season long. But so far, it has not grown long canes at all so I am getting a little worried that it may not go over an arbor and it presently is covered in black spot. I just treated it. No 2 blooms are the same, a most entertaining rose.

Thumbnail by Kell
Stanford, CA(Zone 9b)

Thanks drdon and Kell. I'm drooling now. I've thought about Altissimo - and Kell I love all of those roses, but the orange/ purple trumpet flower combo is great. Now I've got yellow, orange, red, pink, striped. We've done really well! I do appreciate it. I'm dying to get rid of a whitefly infested Morning Glory.

N., CA(Zone 9a)

Kell, there is a big wild bush of Eden climber in my grandma's yard (we are selling the property now). Has never been trained and probably hasnt been pruned in years. Do you know of the best way I could take some of it home to my own yard? I dont have any experience with propagating, but I was thinking about trying with this one. I feel like I need to "save" it! (-:
~Rachael

Temecula, CA(Zone 8b)

Thanks for the update on Annies Happenstance!

I'll be monitoring her availability list closely. Finding that rascal has been harder than finding D.B. Cooper.

San Leandro, CA(Zone 9b)

Bluenikko, I have asked a knowledgeable person on the rose forum to come over and help you out. I have never rooted roses myself. It sounds like that Eden bush would be so amazing to see in bloom.

(Zone 7a)

Well, LOL, here's the "knowledgeable person". I'm sure there are many ways to propagate roses, but I can only tell you what has worked for me - striking the rose cuttings in the ground under glass jars.

1) Preparing the ground
Over the years, I have double dug every inch of our ground with compost, peat, rotted leaves, etc. So, at this point, I just use the ground as it is. Whatever the state of your ground, you want it to simultaneously drain well, but not dry out too fast.

Our soil is clay-based, so adding humusy stuff has been enough. Everything slopes here, so drainage is good. However, if you have flat land with a lot of clay, putting sharp, clean, "builders" grade sand with or without grit in the bottom of the trench where you strike your roses is especially a good idea. Perlite and/or vermiculite could be mixed into the upper strata of your rooting ground.

Humus also benefits sandy soil.

2) Preparing the rose cuttings

I follow the same routine, whether it's softwood cuttings taken from new growth that follows a flush of bloom (the wood should "snap") or hardwood cuttings taken during dormancy (the period of time the leaves have fallen during late autumn/winter). Also, for some reason I don't understand, hardwood cuttings root more easily for me - perhaps this has to do with lower pathogen activity in colder weather.

Have ready a systemic fungicide. I hate to use something so environmentally harsh, but if I don't, the cuttings rot. Other people on DG swear by preparing a solution of willow soaked in water and then soaking the cuttings in that. This facilitates rooting, but I don't know if willow water also functions as a fungicide.

Make the rose cuttings into 6" to 9" lengths.

I'm in the habit of making the top of the cutting a 45 degree angle and the bottom of the cutting straight across in order to be sure to "strike" the cutting into the ground with the tops up and the bottoms down. However, with rose cuttings, since the thorns always point down, you probably don't need to do this - but not all roses have that many thorns, so make this a habit.

Make those cuts at the top and end of the cuttings as close as you can to the nearest leaf node - wood beyond the leaf node will die and harbor pathogens with evil designs on the rest of the cutting.

Strip the bottom 3/4 or 4/5 of the cutting of its leaves - you don't want the bottom part of the cutting that you put into the ground to go into the ground with leaves that will rot and host more of those pathogens.

Soak your cuttings in the fungicide (I do it for 15 minutes). I don't know how long cuttings are soaked in willow water - 30 minutes?

3) Strike your cuttings in the ground and invert a glass jar over each one. I do at least shovel and loosen the ground before putting the cuttings in. Be sure to have the tops up and bottoms down. You can poke a hole with a pencil in the ground before putting in the cutting - firm the ground around the cutting afterwards.

I find that I get the best success by leaving the whole business alone for at least 6 - 12 months. Periodically check for weeds inside the jars and remove. I don't have full sun anywhere in my garden, so cuttings here get 1/2 day of sun. I don't know if full sun would cook the cuttings or not.

I've never had to water here in Maryland. You might have to water if you see a moonscape forming around the cuttings.

This jar method works for me because, once done, I can pretty much forget about it until the following spring. Murphy's Law has less opportunity with this system than with rooting in pots.

Other DG rose enthusiasts have used a "wet sponge" method about which I know nossink. Could anyone fill in here?

I hope this helps and that you keep us all posted on the progress of your cuttings. This method has been developed for an absent-minded human, as well as for the pathogen-vulnerable cutting.

Sebastopol, CA(Zone 9a)

DrDon, sign up for a wish list on the Annie's Website. They'll e-mail you when the plants on your wish list are available.

Modesto, CA(Zone 8b)

Mine is 'Shadow Dancer'......

http://davesgarden.com/pf/showimage/73765/

K :~D

Sebastopol, CA(Zone 9a)

Wow, K. What a beauty that is! And not a trace of black spot.

Stanford, CA(Zone 9b)

Lovely K,

I recently saw this on one of the rose sites. It's nice to have some personal experience. It might even be available now. Are you sure that these aren't camellias with thorns? :-) Sure could be.

Now it's over the top - Except for blue (lol) we've about covered the spectrum. Except for Josephs coat or spectibile, being spectrums themselves. - Both of which get black spot big time here.

Someone gave me a single Mr. Lincoln rose bud the other day. Don't I wish that it would climb? Nothing smells like it.

Thanks again.

Modesto, CA(Zone 8b)

It does, kinda. It is the tallest plant! Those long stems just keep a going!

K

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