I preparred the below chart and throught I would share it here, also.
I think it is interesting when comparing small bulbs and larger bulbs; considering the significant difference in stored energy
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v345/kdjoergensen/gardening/gardenwebforums/bulbenergy.gif
Interesting. So what do you figure the index is on that monsterous "Henryi" that you just got? ;)
Uhh.. got to be a 40/42 bulbs..
LOL I'll bet!
How did you arrive at this chart info kd? It sure is interesting data, but I'm curious as to the source of the data points.
It is calculated based on some ("reasonable"??) assumptions:
a) the energy is distributed in a spherical shape. e.g. it assumes that carbohydrate (energy) which is stored in scales form a round shape.
b) any cavities in a small bulb is directly proportional in a larger bulb
a) The shape assumption may not be entirely accurate, and there are certainly some differences in shape (not entirely round). However, it is not an unreasonable approximation considering that you compare bulbs of same type. It would be difficult to compare onions to lily bulbs for example.
b) The energy is calculated as number of cubic inches of bulb (scale) volume simply using the formular for a sphere (formular: 4 / 3 x pi x r3) for each bulb size. This obviously assumes that you had a solid energy mass and no cavities which we know do exists between the scales. Therefore the amount of energy stated will be overestimated, but my thinking here is that it will be overestimated for all bulb sizes. It assumes that any cavities in a small bulb is directly proportional in a larger bulb which may or may not be true (I simply do not know). But still I don't think it is an unreasonable assumption. If anything, I think it may "underestimate" the stored energy of a large bulb compared to a small bulb simply because some space is taken up by the heart, and that scales in a larger bulb tend to be more compressed (less air space) than in a smaller bulb.
The energy index is simply using the calculated "cubic inches energy per bulb" and compares them to the 14/16 cm standard bulb type.
Even if not 100% correct, the approximation should be fairly good when comparing two lily bulbs.
I think the biggest risk of using the chart, however, is that energy may not be the "true" meassurement of evaluating bulbs on it's own. E.g. even a small bulb may produce a few flowers and in essence produce the desired result for the garden. Therefore, energy mass may be a factor in an overall evaluation but can probably not be used as the only one.
This message was edited Mar 16, 2005 1:59 PM
This message was edited Mar 16, 2005 3:15 PM
Thanks for the explanation, kd. I think the important take away from the chart is the relationships between smaller and larger sized bulbs. Whether the specific data is entirely accurate is not the important point you are trying to make, rather that a larger bulb has a greater proportion of energy stored than a smaller bulb. In summary......
Size DOES matter!!!
(couldn't resist!) :-D
You said it .. (I didn't) %D
how long does it take for a 14/16cm bulb to grow to a16/18cm to a 20/22cm ?
There is no hard and fast rules. Technically, it can be done in one season if you fertilize adequately, grow it without any stress in full sun (in your zone) and deadhead flowers after bloom. However, some lily bulbs will split before they reach 16/18cms and 20/22 cms, so it is partially dependent on the specific species and partially on the the length of the growing period. If you have a good long growing period, like in the pacific northwest zone8, where temperatures stay moderate in summer but the growing season long you will have ideal conditions provided you have a moisture rentive sandy soil with good nutrient holding capability. If you grow the plant in a short growing season in heavy clay or infertilie sandy soils, then you do not get much improvement in bulb size.
I have grown lilies to twice the size (10/12 to 16/18 cms) in one growing season by continuning growth in fall and winter indoors.
And what is your preferred product or method of fertilization?
I fertilize with 10-20-20 once in early spring, and then apply osmocote 14-14-14 after 30 days (in early summer). i also give them 20-20-20 peters (soluble) about 2-3 times per year. The above for lilies.
Do you fertilize during actual bloom time, kd?
I usually fertilize in early spring as the lilies are breaking ground, and then I put down osmocote as flower buds form
Thanks! That's what I've read to do and was hoping I wasn't doing something wrong. I'm not quite as diligent about fertilize at bud time, but do a pretty good job of early spring and early fall fertilization.
langbr--still laughing at your observation.
oh i'm so glad you wrote about this. i've been fertilizing in spring, and then after the blooms have gone by. i don't know where i read that, but obviously i'm doing it wrong. sooooooooo a new way it is this year.
your not suppose to fertilize after blooming?
