Humidity for Hoyasin dry climates?

Denver Metro Area, CO(Zone 5a)

Alohahoya suggested I ask those in the know about dry climates. I'm in Colorado--and we are very, very dry (both outdoors and indoors). My first hoya starts died, last year.

Well, I'm trying again...and am hoping for input from others, here. The new hoyas are doing OK after about 6 weeks (one has new leaves and even a BUD). I've been running the humidifier most of this time for my DD--if I stop that, will the hoyas be affected greatly? Should I just keep the humidifier going through the winter? I've been watering the plants about two times /week. Does that sound about right???

Input, please?
Thanks!
Diane

Woodland Park, CO(Zone 4b)

Hi Diane
I'm really new to hoyas but maybe I can help.

You say "My first hoya starts died, last year." From overwatering??
Twice a week sounds like a bit much but hard to tell not knowing what size plant, soil, pot size or species (I gather some like it a little moister than others).

Here's my situation.....
The few hoyas I do have are in the kitchen and in the bedroom (with a hot tub). The bedroom runs about 40% humidity-not what I consider high being originally from the east but decent for here. The kitchen is much less but cooking does increase the humidity somewhat for a short time. The kitchen hoya is directly under the heater, gets blasted but it hasn't seem to hurt it. I only water once a week regardless (the bedroom hoyas are in pots with no drainage so I gotta be a little careful-but I still just dump a bunch of water in once a week).
Pots small in relation to plant size (probably potbound) and soil is nothing special with added perlite for good drainage.

Don't think that if you stop the humidifier it's gonna hurt terribly much. Some of mine came from a greenhouse and adjusted fine. I will say one thing tho-it's better for your health to have a little extra humidity here so running one has an advantage anyway. Me-I'm way to lazy to bother. I don't mist any of my houseplants either.

Hope this helps and curious what others here do too especially the more experienced folks out there!!

Celaya, Mexico(Zone 10a)

Thanks for posting in a new thread.
It would be good if you could advise which Hoya species we are talking here about. Some are more tricky/finicky then others.
Like Carol stated in the other thread, in general Hoyas are very hardy plants which can survive in very diverse enviromental conditions, the only thing I know of they absolutely can not take is temps below freezing.
Even though many Hoyas will grow in low humidity levels they would do best in higher humidity (>50%).
I personally keep the soil on mine always moist never letting it completely dry out. I cannot give a recommended "watering frequency" as this is too depended onto pot type, pot size, soil type, plant size,...etc so must be determined on an individual basis.

Milan

Valley Village, CA

Mist, and mist even three times a day, I found leaves that were drying out today, because I put them in a heated greenhouse, and didn't mist them. I hope I don't lose them, I did water today, and tomorrow starts the misting program, I have more problems in the winter, because I am told to hold back water to give them a rest, when I do that they dry up. Now I'm trying to find a happy medium. I wish you luck, just keep working at it. My friend in Ok doesn't seem to have any problems, she has it down pat. She keeps them in mini greenhouses. Mine don't like that and rot. Let us know what works for you. Norma

Keaau, HI(Zone 11)

My humidity runs between 50 and 80% and I still have to water more than twice a week. Not talking MISTING...talking just regular humidity in the air. I would go by feel of the dirt in the pot rather than a schedule...

New Iberia, LA

My DH ran me sum soaker hoses all around the top of my plants and during the day the misters would come on and off ..I know why does a person need that with 90% humidity.What can I say I was scared they would dry out! :-) but these soaker hoses are really neat and they were not expensive.I still have them and still use them.

Dianne

Woodland Park, CO(Zone 4b)

I'm NOT trying to be flip here but, since mine do well (grow like mad, produce spurs and bloom) in lower humdity and with lower water (drying a bit between watering), is this specific to the species perhaps and the fact that I have the common carnosa types?? Don't know what the publicalyx is going to do yet but the bugs are gone and it seems to be adjusting well, and putting on a bit of new growth.
Are you all telling me that they could do *better* with more humidity and more water? If that's the case they may very well take over, lol!!
Everyone seems to insists on higher humidity but most also seem to live where that naturally occurrs.
I don't rest mine at all either....

New Iberia, LA

I am by no means a expert but my carnosa's are huge my compacta is over twelve feet long and just massive you can't even see the 16 inch basket it is in.So I would have to say you could produce sum hanger breakers ha ha.it happens here.But your plants seem to be just fine so don't fix what isn't broken.I guess if you would get more of the thin leaf hoya's you might notice a difference.Just my thoughts.

Dianne

TUCSON, AZ(Zone 9a)

I have been wondering if I should bring my Hoyas inside for the winter?? right now we have some humidities weather. but starting mid Nov. we will dry out with temps 60's in the day down to 40's at night. then in Jan. 50's in day and high 30's at night. I keep them on my covered patio. they are in clay pots. I am just not sure!! this is my first winter. HELP!!! Binky :(((( ???

Celaya, Mexico(Zone 10a)

Take a look at this thread http://davesgarden.com/forums/t/452052/
Hoyas in the carnosa,compacta, fungii, pubicalyx range are very hardy and can cope with large ranges of conditions. Hoyas in the Eriostemma section on the other hand do in general not tolerate low temps and humidity levels. Lacunosa is another one which, from my experience, seems not to tolerate temps below approx. 10 C (50F) too well. It doesn't die but seems to sulk and it's leaves get yellow and drop or just start to dry up.

Milan

TUCSON, AZ(Zone 9a)

Thanks Milan, Just toke a look at that link. I knew that it had been ask, just couldn't find the thread. will print it out so I don't forget next time. Binky :)))))

Jackson, GA

Hi all! To raise humidity in my house I use a few different methods, one is humidity trays. I have used different methods for the trays. One cheap way is to get kittly litter trays at Dollar General for $2. they have tan, blue and maroon (at least all the stores in my area) I saved lids from everything from Mayonaise jars to coffee creamer lids.
I turn these upside down and sit the smaller plants and cuttings on top of them to keep the pots from sitting in water, I pour water in the trays when they start drying up.

I also collect small table top fountains which I get at Dollar General, Family Dollar, Roses, WalMart ect.... most of mine cost $10. or less. It is best to find the ones that are NOT battery opperated, they seem to only run when it is noisy (sound activated). I set these up with groupings of Hoyas and my other houseplants in winter.

I also noticed a big difference when I started misting, less new growth tips drying up. But the Hoyas did fine before I got in the habit. I also think a good misting or two daily helps keep your plants looking more lush, (less dust). I had surgery on my wrist about 6 years ago for Carpal Tunnel Syndrome, that was my exuse for not misting... those little misting bottles wear out my hand! I'm hooked on these little 40oz pump misters that many stores carry now. No hose to fool with, just a nozzle that streams or sprays, I just pump it up and mist away! (they also come in handy for watering small pots and cuttings)

Caron is right on target by keeping many of her plants in the kitchen and bathroom. These are the most humid areas in our homes! Washing dishes, running the dishwasher and cooking all add humidity, as well as bathing and showering in the bathroom. 40% is a fairly high reading considering it is in a heated home. I've always heard that electric heat is dryer than gas heat, that could be a factor too.

Norma, It may depend on how warm your greenhouse stays in winter if the Hoyas need a rest or not. I think they mainly need a rest if the temperatures drop really low. My greenhouse gets down in the low 40's at times in winter, I water MUCH less. However, if we are having summer in December and the outside temps are in the 70' for two weeks running outside the greenhouse gets HOT, during those spells I water more.

Binky, Maybe Awanda will give her opinion since she lives in a simular climate. It probably depends on which Hoyas you are growing!
I'd think if the temps are getting down in the 30's the Hoyas like carnosa, pubicalyx, kerrii ect... would survive unless it frosts or freezes BUT you would need to keep the soil on the dry side to avoid root rot.

Mesa, AZ(Zone 9a)

Binky BG (before greenhouse). I had all of my hoyas inside in those mini greenhouses from Big Lots, with my hoyas sitting on humidity trays. It really kept the humdity up. I also had 3 inch electrical fans inside the greenhouse to help with air circulation. The only hoya I plan on leaving outside is my Carnosa. We really don't use our heating too often during the winter, so I'm sure that makes a big difference. I do have my eriostemmas (sp) inside, since they don't handle cooler weather. I got my humdity trays from Charley's Greenhouse, but I'm sure you can find them elsewhere. HTH!!

Blessings,
Awanda

Thumbnail by ACsAgapePlants
Keaau, HI(Zone 11)

Caron...your hoyas seem to be very adapted...and like Dianne says, "if it ain't broke...". But if you should see them linger/wane...you might up the humidity.

So much depends on what you are growing your hoyas in... I know that Dianne uses a very very loose mix so all that dripping in the pots won't hurt at all. My ideal conditions for my young plants in the GH would be big misters 3 X per day for most of them (when normal humidity is below 80%)...then watering once a week or less. And...they grow like weeds and bloom like dancers without it...

Some hoyas need almost a total saturation of moisture...some need very little. Some, from double monsoon areas, get rain all year round...some need drying out. But these are extremes...and in the hobbiest/home environment, paying a little attention to individual needs helps a lot...especially regards to water. H. multifloras, H. lacunosas, other Philippine species like tons of water...H. bella too... Some like growing a little dryer in winter...H. archboldiana, H. macgillivrayi...but most of them will adjust very well. I think H. pachyclada, H. kerrii, H. subquintuplinervis are some that grow better on the dry side...H. australis will grow wet or dry..really a trooper!!!

Maybe that's why these little dickins are so fun...trying t o figure out their sweet spots.

TUCSON, AZ(Zone 9a)

Thanks you guys, You guys really help me. One thing I will do is put them all in one room. That way can watch more closely . And keep the sprayer next to them. lol I just love my baby's Binky :))))))

Bryson, QC(Zone 4a)

I'am just really new with hoyas myself, and noticed from misting everyday they are lush and happy looking. I'am just wondering I have trays of cuttings facing the south large windows and it works well now. In the evenings the temperature lowers on the main floor where I have them. Threw the winter will this still be fine?As well as the direction I have them facing?
Thank-You Ingrid

Woodland Park, CO(Zone 4b)

Thanks for the link and all the advise!!!
I may even start misting, lol!! Got Leslie's plants today and they are absolute beauties :-)
AND I noticed that hers have new growth WITH roots all along them!!!?!! Ok, mine don't do *that*!!
Is that the extra humidity at work??
You are all great and thanks for not making me feel stupid with my obsevations and questions!!

Denver Metro Area, CO(Zone 5a)

WOW! You guys are amazing!! Here are the names of my hoyas:
H. Rubra (pink silver???)
H. Obovalata
H. Kentiana
H.Publycalyx
H. Krinkle
H. Tsangii (which I am guessing is the D-something I've read about, here)
All of the above are rooted cuttings (from a really generous trader) that are in 3" to 4" pots

H. Motoskeii is a larger plant, in a 4" pot

And I just bought a variegated carnata (?) that looks a lot like the one that is pictured on another thread, here (but mine is not as showy--has only one albino leaf).

These are in my kitchen and bedroom, like Caron's ;-) I have not misted but went out to buy a mister (mist-er?), today, after reading Carol's post about humidity and misting. I'll wait to see what folks have to say about each of these hoyas and group them by water needs.
Thanks,
Diane

Long Beach, CA

Ingrid----If you can get some kind of heating mat (I use the kind they make for reptile aquariums), then you can put your plants on top of those and not worry much about the downstairs temps. I have several of these along the large windowsills in the family room. The plants love the extra heat in the winter.
Marcy

Bryson, QC(Zone 4a)

Mairzee_dotes, Great, thank-You for your help.
Ingrid

Keaau, HI(Zone 11)

Diane...You might check on some ID sites...but H. rubra sounds like it may be one of the variegated H. carnosas. That hoya, the H. pubicalyx, the H. 'Krinkle 8', the H. motoskei can all take very cool temps...and live around the 50's with no problem at all. They are from cooler regions in the wild. The others can be happy in Intermediate temps...say 60s and above... Does the one you call H. obovalata have almost round leaves, rather larger, with speckles? Then it is probably H. obovata, and that, too, can take the cooler temps. Remember that in the wild they have a cooler season as well...and they actually thrive with the temperature fluctuations. (I take my data from David Liddle's Catalogue...before I actually compiled the data, I never worried about warmth...now I am paranoid but shouldn't be because even my H. erythrina lthrives in cool temps from time to time).

Carol

Woodland Park, CO(Zone 4b)

Great info Carol about the specific species. Nice to know that the 15 degree temp fluxuations I get evey night are just right for the carnosas and publicalxy I have!!

Denver Metro Area, CO(Zone 5a)

Hmmm...they are getting well-circulated air (ceiling fans in those areas) but the house temps will be fluctuating only 5-10 degrees from day to night. I can put them close to windows when the weather is colder and it would be in the low 60's, there.
Temp. variation may only happen in the late spring to early fall, when they can go outside?

H. obovata is correct. The rubra doesn't look variegated. I'll mark it ?? until it blooms (boy, do I sound optimistic!!).
Diane

Jackson, GA

Diane mtnmama, You may want to look at the plants data base here to check a few of your names.
I think this may be what you have:
Hoya rubra could be Hoya carnosa 'Krimson Princess' (the middle of the leaf is white outer edges green.
Hoya obovalata is probally Hoya obovata (roundish leaves sometimes with silver flecks)
Hoya kentiana (longish leaves that resemble the stringbean Hoya shepherdii
gets redish edges in high light)
Hoya pubicalyx
Hoya Krinkle could be either Hoya carnosa 'Krinkle 8' or Hoya compacta the rope hoya
Hoya tsangii is probably DS-70 was mis-published as tsangii many years ago
Hoya motoskei
variegated carnata probably Hoya carnosa 'Krimson Queen' green leaf trimmed in white.
Getting ID's from leaves is almost impossilbe at times, but having the correct spellings will help you if you want to compare with other pictures.
For the most part these all seem to require the same care in my conditions, none of them seem too picky.

Caron, It really hasn't been that long ago when many of us had the same questions as you folks! It is nice to get advice without snobbish attitudes
like I've seen and heard of on other forums... I'd love to ask a few Orchid questions since I only have a few that are new to me, but feel stupid asking what may be obvious to the pros.
I'm glad you like the plants! The smaller two have grown up in my kitchen window, the bigger one was rooted in water and grew on my front porch all summer. The aerial roots you see may be a product of misting & humidity, they are quite common on most Hoyas, that's how they climb trees in nature!
Those aerail roots make it really easy to start the cuttings, I just stick them in water until they get long enough to plant in soil!

Bryson, QC(Zone 4a)

It's amazing, all the wonderful advice & information you all give.Makes my baby hoyas more happier to live with me..LOL
Thank-You All

Keaau, HI(Zone 11)

Diane...Sounds to me like you have it totally under control and they don't dare be unhappy!!! We are all fellow travelers ... sometimes what we read are the needs of the plants are "ideal" and that, actually, they get along with whatever. The temperature tolerances I mentioned are not "growing guides" but simply what is expected to be lowest temperature tolerances.

By the way...I was just reading an issue of The Hoyan where a woman wrote that she finally has success with her H. polyneura by giving it a lot less water in the winter. Since I have lost mine nearly every winter...I was happy to read this! Maybe I'll be lucky this time...I tend to be heavy with the water.

Denver Metro Area, CO(Zone 5a)

Hi Lesli_gro,
You and Carol are right on the money with names--and kentiana has the neat red on the edges just like you described! No flecks on my obovata but round leaves with a couple of small brown spots on the undersides (maybe overwatering???). H. Krinkle 8' is right, too. The only one I'm wondering about is the rubra--no variegation. That will remain my mystery plant, for now.

I like easy care! That explains why they are still alive (and I spotted another one that is putting on leaves--HOORAY!). My DH thinks I'm going crazy getting excited about a whole new sort of plant ;-) He'll start doing a happy dance, too, if he gets to see a bloom! ;)
Diane

Keaau, HI(Zone 11)

LOL - Plant dealers put any name on a hoya they have heard in their dreams. H. carnosa has a cv. or a tm or a something called Rubra...but that is not to say they can't put it on a tag of something else. Hey...you get to play "bloom that mystery Hoya"...!!!

Because a tag says "it is" means you have to do your homework. You might look on the internet for H. obovata...see if the leaves/growth pattern match.

Denver Metro Area, CO(Zone 5a)

Bloom, bloom, PLEASE bloom--that's the game! I'll post on the ID forum in a NY minute when it does! Heavens! I'll post here and anywhere else I can when that happy day comes (no, I'm not holding my breath, but I'm optimistic)!

I looked closer--my H. obovata DOES have silver-gray specks on the leaves! Definitely the right name...hooray!
Diane

Valley Village, CA

All of you make me in awe of your knowledge, I'm learning, but it will take years before I know anything. However, I am growing in my knowledge, I' now not afraid to ask the stupid questions which the rest of you already know.
My temps, I'm able to keep at 60F and I have the humidity at 70% presently. I think I will add humidity trays however, at the Huntington they are putting plants of Wandering Jew under the benches to keep the humidy up, and they told me the more plants in a small area, the higher the humidity will be. I have been wetting down redwood bark on the floor of the greenhouse, which is a big help. Does this sound right? Any suggestions?

Actually those in my big greenhouse, the leaves were starting to show stress, so I went in and misted them today, and will it again in the morning, until I can figure out what is going wrong in there. It's full of plants so I shouldn't be having trouble, the heater is on, but I will need to watch the temp. closely, I do have a double plastic roof and one side is a garage wall the other cinder blocks. Two walls of heavy sliding door glass. The heater goes off during the day time, but our cold getting down in the high 40tys at this time. They did better when I had them hanging out in the open, they did not like the change of temperature at all and are pouting. Norma

Keaau, HI(Zone 11)

Hey Norma...to my small experience, you seem to be doing the right thing!!! Wetting down anything is a good idea (we have old carpet in parts of the GH). IF you have a thermometer, you could take temps around the leaf area of your plants... How do you see signs of stress...what are the signs?

Any chance you are worrying unnecessarily? NAW! When the heater is on, if you feel a leaf - does it feel cool? A thermometer near the leaves would tell you if it is too hot.

How is the air flow?...Airflow is critical.

Great idea about plants growing UNDER the benches. THAT;s why I see it so often here...maintains the humidity (like, we have to worry? Most of the time we drip...but other times...and plants are sensitive little creatures....) LOL

Celaya, Mexico(Zone 10a)

As for Hoya 'Rubra', I think what is happening there is that the original Hoya carnosa 'Rubra" (Krimson Princess) of the grower/retailer reverted back to the all green form but they maintained the cultivar name even though it now is a "simple" carnosa.

That's interesting. I have a H.Rubra, and noticed recently that about 1/2 dozen new leaves on it are all green, whereas the rest of the leaves are cream with green borders. Is this what you mean?

Denver Metro Area, CO(Zone 5a)

Lots of plants...highly concentrated humidity in one area. Gotcha! Think I'll do some repositioning, today. It makes sense!
D.

Denver Metro Area, CO(Zone 5a)

I'll bet you're right on that rubra, PanamonC. The shape of the leaves is like the carnosa...but it has flecks on all (there are only 4) of the leaves. Flecks are light gray. It's a sweet little plant but it isn't variegated with pink or red anywhere. Once it's reverted, it's never going to go back, is that right? I'm still calling it my Mystery but am leaning towards a reverted Rubra.

Now, I'm going to move plants and get busy around here!
D.

LOL, my DH figured that out in our bedroom this past weekend - I'd been "knocking around" arrangement ideas of the 15 mostly large tropical plants in our bedroom (includes the hoyas), and he hit on having them grouped together on one side of the room, but graduated in their distance from the window (sliding glass door) by light requirements (which info of course only I knew-I helped!!). With a rocking chair in the middle - looks amazing - now why couldn't I have figured that out?? LOL.

Celaya, Mexico(Zone 10a)

Yes, that's what I mean. The cultivars are "unstable" and often get all green growth which will remain all green including any new growth coming out of them, thus the all green stems should be cut off to avoid that the whole plant gets reverted.

I will cut them off this weekend! Thanks Milan.

Is this like the ones that will throw out all white leaves? I saw a thread with that subject recently, and it said to cut them off as well.

Tillamook, OR(Zone 8b)

I'm going to argue just a little with you Panamon, I had Krimson Princess that had stems starting to revert, but I haven't had enough time to really deal with it, so I put it down on the floor in a very shady corner, no sun at all, and not any filtered light, total shade, and when I checked it this week, I found variegated leaves starting at the ends of the all green stems. It appears that the shade really does alot for this one becasue it's totally lush and full now.


Raven

Celaya, Mexico(Zone 10a)

I'm not one to argue (at least not with this :) there are always exceptions to a rule they say.
From my experience any all green cuttings I took off variegated carnosas and rooted stayed green and never got variegated growth again. (sun or shade). Same goes with any all green shoots that I left on the plants but who knows maybe that "variegation gene" may slip through at times ;)

As for all white/cream leaves, you can leave them on as long they do not overtake your plant, often these leaves will die off on their own.

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