I started lots of tomatoes in my greenhouse in February. The ones that got planted outdoors are doing great. The dozen that got potted in the greenhouse (16" classic clay pots, re-used for many successful years) all have a problem. Starting at the lowest leaves and moving up slowly, they get a uniform, non-blotchy coating of white fuzz, as seen in the photo. From the tip of each leaf they gradually turn a uniform yellow, then wilt to a golden tan, dry up, and the entire stem breaks off. Never any spots, nothing visible on the bottoms of the leaves.
Closest photos I've found on the web are of Powdery Mildew, but they aren't a perfect fit. I tried the baking soda spray, with a bit of neem oil and sticker, twice, and didn't notice any difference - the problem crept up through the sprayed leaves at the same rate. I've been removing affected leaves before they wilt, on the theory of reducing spores, but I'm not sure that helps either. Several sites said reduce water and don't fertilize, so I've kept them pretty dry and hungry - but not limp at all. Supposedly warmer, drier weather should help, but the few hot days last week made no obvious difference.
I'm beginning to wonder if it could be the soil. I changed brands completely this year, much less vermiculite and peat, more fine wood fibers, some really coarse wood fibers mixed in at the bottom, and no coir except in a 1/2" mulch layer on top. A couple of handfulls of organic dry fertilizer per pot. I notice the other indoor plants that got the same soil are also pretty pale. I tried a hit of liquid "Grow Big" fertilizer on one plant two days ago, and I'm convinced it is deeper green, but the problem is progressing through it just the same.
Does anyone recognize what I'm missing here?
Greenhouse Cherry Tomatoes -> fuzz -> yellow -> wilt
Nothing horrible happened to the one plant I fertilized, so I did all of them. Since then there has been no more yellowing! Even the leaves that had yellow, wilting tips have greened up behind the tips and have not wilted any further. So I guess the new soil mix just needs way more fertilizer added than what I used previously. Maybe this whole sickly adventure was due to lack of nitrogen - and the suggestion that adding some would promote the mildew. Likewise, I've gone back to daily watering (slowly, with drip) until a bit drains out the bottom of each pot, and the mildew has not exploded.
But there are still a few leaf fronds, maybe 1/8 the previous volume, wilting, curling, drying to a crisp and falling off. Previously they turned a uniform yellow first and wilted from the outermost tip back toward the main stem. Now they go from proper green to dry crunchy tan without the yellow stage, and they wilt from the main stem outward toward the furthest tip.
And there are still a few leaves with a fuzzy coating that must be mildew. Those don't seem any more likely to wilt than the unaffected leaves.
Of course we now have summer weather, and the plants have switched from blossoms and vegetative growth to ripening some of the many full-size cherry tomatoes that have hung there for weeks. So who knows which influence changed the situation...
Once the weather got seriously hot, and lots of tomatoes ripened, all of the plants, both in the greenhouse and out in the garden, began to wilt from the ground up. Outdoors, watered daily from above by Rain-Birds, the top half of each plant remained relatively normal while the bottom half wilted totally. Now that most fruits are ripe, the tops have wilted as well, the patch looks like late October rather than early August.
In the greenhouse, with drip irrigation at soil level, a few stems still have a bit of green on the very tip, six or eight feet from the soil, but most died completely after ripening fruit. All but one plant sprouted new green leaves from near the soil. These would get maybe three feet tall and some produced fruit, but they also died from the ground up - and were replaced by more new sprouts.
All of the current crop of new sprouts look green and healthy at the moment - but they have not reached the three-foot level where they seem to encounter problems. I'm beginning to think the hollow stems I've noticed when pruning away the dying branches might be the problem. But my symptoms don't exactly match the descriptions I've found:
https://uconnladybug.wordpress.com/2010/08/11/tomato-pith-necrosis/
[My comments in brackets...]
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tomato pith necrosis, caused by the soil-borne bacterium Pseudomonas corrugata.
The earliest symptom is chlorosis or yellowing of the younger leaves. [But mine lose older leaves first...] As the disease progresses, leaves may wilt and become necrotic (dead). Infected stems may or may not have visible dark lesions. [No lesions here.] To investigate further and to check for wilt diseases of tomato, the lower stem was cut in half longitudinally. The characteristic symptom of tomato pith necrosis, a chambered or hollow pith or center of the stem, was observed. In some cases, this is white as shown in the photo. [That's my symptom...]
One symptom that is quite distinctive but that was not readily apparent in this case is the development of many adventitious roots on the outside of the stem near the chambered pith areas. [Zero adventitious roots here.] Conditions that favor tomato pith necrosis include low night temperatures, high nitrogen fertility and high humidity. It often occurs when the fruits are nearing mature green, or just before they begin to redden. [My problem was far worse in the greenhouse with warmer nights, and with plants starved for nitrogen (new soil brand proved deficient). Problem did become obvious just about when green fruits reached full size.]
It is best to manage fertilizing better as tomato pith necrosis will occur in over fertilized plants and in a high humidity environment where the tomatoes are growing too fast. Pseudomonas is a naturally occurring in the soil but will only attack a plant under conditions of high humidity, low night temperatures and over fertilized plants. Changing the soil in the beds will not change these conditions. [Again, my problem appeared worse in nitrogen-starved plants, in pots in a solarium with hot dry days, carefully staked and tied, and watered with drip at the soil level.]
[But the "chambered or hollow pith" has been obvious through the whole adventure!]
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Appears there are many varieties of this problem, but most seems to develop brown pith, spotting, lesions, and sloughing of bark. [Mine had none of these, the stems appear perfectly normal and green from outside, and the pith white, even after all the leaves have wilted.]
https://www.apsnet.org/publications/phytopathology/backissues/Documents/1987Articles/Phyto77n10_1457.pdf
"Pith Autolysis" seems to occur "when the plant cannot meet its carbon needs by photosynthesis alone", leading to hollow stems without other symptoms. [But I do have serious wilt symptoms.]
http://aob.oxfordjournals.org/content/75/6/587.full.pdf
Other descriptions mention finding insects inside the stems - I've never seen any insects or darkened areas or anything but white pith, and have never seen any openings in the stem walls.
(See photos)
Beyond the hollow stems, the most unique symptom I have is tomato fruits with "cantaloupe skin" - a pattern of slightly raised lines on the surface of green or ripe fruits that looks exactly like the skin of a cantaloupe. The pattern is about half the size of the texture of a full grown cantaloupe. It may cover the whole fruit, or just a part of one side, and seems to always touch the stem. Affected fruits seem bland and mealy but have no added taste. In extreme cases the skin gets thick and hard and eventually splits and dries inward.
(Photo shows mild occurrence.)
And one other symptom I've noticed through this whole year, on healthy-looking branches as well as sickly ones in the greenhouse... When I tap the blossom areas to encourage pollination, some of the petals fall off of the flowers. In previous years I could tap or shake much more aggressively without losing any petals.
At this point the question is "What do I need to do to prevent whatever this is from infecting next year's crop?" Since all the plants, indoors and out and many different varieties, ended up unhealthy, and I remember a few samples seemed affected at the 4" pot stage last spring, maybe this began in the first starting flats? No idea what could have been different this year...
This message was edited Aug 3, 2016 2:02 PM
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