Deno Method for tomatoes and marigolds??

Has anyone tried to germinate tomatoes, pot marigolds (Tagetes patula) and asters by the Deno method??

I have downloaded and read a spreadsheet of all Dr. Deno's experiments/results, but these are not included.

This message was edited Jan 30, 2015 11:29 AM

The "Deno Method" is simply to germinate the seeds in damp medium (e.g. vermiculite, sand) in plastic baggies. It's purpose for Dr. Deno was to conserve space while conducting hundreds of germination experiments. Hundreds of baggies take up much less room, particularly when stored in a refrigerator for cold stratification (which is not a requirement for your seeds), than hundreds of pots.

There wouldn't be much point in germinating easy, quick-to-germinate plants such as the ones you mention using baggies. The seeds should germinate rapidly, so planting them directly into pots will save a step.

By the way, most annuals including those you mention, don't require any more sophisticated techniques for germination than to simply sow them on dampened medium, cover very lightly (if you choose) and keep moist. (This is why they were not part of Deno's studies, other than brief mention in the various comments on annuals.) "Keeping moist" can be done most easily by covering your seed trays or pots with plastic covers. Plastic bags or plastic wrap is fine.

'BetNC',
I've only tried growing purchased tomato and aster seeds strictly according to the packet directions. They seemed simple enough. And, the fact that the various seed companies make a profit from seeds, to me, means that they have to sell seeds that ARE easy to grow. Otherwise, people won't buy them. Of course, that's partly assuming that you're seeds are from packets as well.

Aside from my two cents, 'altagardener' has some pretty good and logical background information, too. (This is a PRIME example of why I looove this site! People from a gardening community that spans the entire globe have information and experience that can potentially benefit so many other fellow gardeners. And, all of it is accessible through a simple posted question...FANTASTIC!!! Thanks Dave's Garden Team!!)

And, of course, thanks to you too 'BetNC' for posing a question that, I'm guessing, others may have pondered as well.

I've used a wet paper towel to hold the seeds and a plastic bag with air in it. I use this mostly to test germination rates and seed viability. Tomato seeds germinate much faster when kept at about 80* I don't know about the others.

BetNC, I got germination on my tomato seeds beginning in just four days. I start with my homemade potting soil ( Peat and Peralite), then spread my seeds and lightly cover them with Vermiculite. I place in the tray and cover with a clear dome and under fluorescent lights. I don't wet my soil but make sure it's lightly damp and after the layer of Vermiculite I give them a light misting.. I may mist again during the day as I just want the soil mix barely damp. Usually I mist them twice a day till growth begins. Then when they are up and beginning to show good growth I actually water the pot gently.... After a few days under the dome I place them in another tray in the open air, keeping them close to the lights. I buy my lights from Home Depot, 4 ft shop lights are usually less than $12-14 and bulbs are a few $$$ each. One warm bulb and one cool bulb are great (one is more expensive than the other) but it's possible to use just cool lights to grow any of your babies! Keep the lights close to your trays, mine are approx 5" above the top of the pots. And I have shelves that are all the way up to 18" from the lights for more mature plants. I've build 2 plant/seeding stands for all the plants that I grow. But you can easily stay small and start a few trays. Under one 4ft light you can do 5 trays easily.... You can get some 1x2s at H.D. or Lowes and build yourself a unit to hang your light(s) from using chain and S hooks. (Build a open square box to hang your light from, or could use a long chain to hang them from the ceiling.) The chain allows you to readjust the height of your lights as growth commences. If plants get too leggy, move them closer to the lights. And they can even touch the lights without any damage from my experience.

It's amazing what can be done with a few seeds!!! Most of this garden was started from seeds, now it's grown to 40ft wide by 100 ft long and it took several seasons to grow enough plants to fill it in....Then after a few years I bought goodies and now some trades from some wonderful and generous people here at Dave's. Pix 2-5 are as the border on the west side matures over the years (6 or 7 ish maybe..)

And if you get failures just keep trying, the varieties that are available only from seed are vast!!!! It takes time to learn so just jump in and begin. You'll be surprised at how many successes you will have!!!! And it's very rewarding to see your work come to fruition!!

Some seeds take a bit more work to germinate but the vast majority can be done using the method I described. A great catalog for seeding info is T&MSEEDS.com They tell you how to germinate each seed they sell and have info on thebackyardgardener.com for years of data.on hundreds of varieties of flowers and veggies mostly. (info on light/dark, temps and days to germination on all the varieties and any special treatment if needed.)

I personally keep a note book of what I sow, when, germination date and any potting on that is done. Comes in handy for future ref.for your own needs. It's a wonderful learning experience..Have fun and good luck!!!

Oops was trying to do a correction and not sure what happened..lol.

Come on over to seed germination part 5 by pfg and follow along as we begin this seasons seeds and methods. Jump in any time, with comments or questions...we're there to help!!! Good Luck!!!!

wwKathy...re seed germination Part 5 ---HEY!!! I'm there and have been for some weeks........mostly I just read but occassionally (ok, often)

My new gro set up is a free-standing framework of PVC, supporting a 4- foot, 4 bulb shoplight. and I only have two 1020 trays (144 cells) for that shoplight. Do you mean I can put a second row of two more 1020 trays beside them??? So the light gets to them ALL??

I'm anxiously awaiting time to actual START (8 weeks before last frost...est at May 1, so MARCH. . . another WHOLE month!!!!

Lol, sorry about that, I realized that after I posted this. Duh!!! Yes, you can place the trays close to each other. Check out my stand, 2 lights per shelf and I can fit 7 trays (1020 s)(when full), and 1 half tray or other pots. My stand is 60" long X 72" tall X 32" wide per shelf and have 4 shelves.and the floor.

You could start perennials now....I finished my 4th tray today. so that a total of 128 pots.....a few are doubles but mostly single varieties. No new pix yet,these are from previous years.