Gomphrena seeds

I Like Gomphrena!
I like it so well - I want to start it from seed. There's two species of Gomphrena seeds I want to grow from seed:
1. Gomphrena haageana 'Strawberry Fields'
2. Gomphrena globosa

I started Gomphrena h. 'Strawberry Fields' from seed years ago via Winter Sow. I collected seed and tried to grow it via Winter Sow the following year with 0 results. I noticed the seed I collected had yellow stuff around the seed-vs. the seed I bought did not.
I have not been able to figure out how to "clean" the chaff from the seed. It seems well attached. Perhaps it doesn't need the chaff cleaned off, but it sure didn't germinate for me following the same procedure. I did get several that re-seeded in the garden.
So, can anyone give me information on cleaning Gomphrena h. 'Stawberry Fields'?

Does the Gomphrena globosa have the same 'chaff' on it?

I have done a lot of research trying to find the information on Gomphrena h. 'Stawberry Fields' but haven't been able to come up with any pertinent information.

I did find out you are suppose to soak the seed for two days before sowing. The seed needs to be under 1/2 inch of soil as it likes darkness to germinate. I did not soak the seeds when I WS the seed-but did probably put the seed 1/2 inch deep.

One more thing: Does anyone know the viability time of this seed? One site said 2 to 3 years.

I would appreciate any experience one has had growing this seed.

I would like info on where to find the seed pds on the plant. I don't know the entire genus etc, but mine are small plants with purple globe flowers on top....a cluster like. I've been removing the dried blossoms hoping the hold the seeds somewhere....am I correct?

Hi Kantz, Yes, the seeds are in the blossom. When the flower dries up and turns white/light tan, the seeds are ripe. If you take your finger nail and brush down on the blossom it should "flake" off. The seeds are in each of the flakes. I haven't tried to harvest the Gomphrena globosa (which is the one you have), but I assume it would be the same as the Gomphrena haageana 'Strawberry Fields'.

The problem I have is getting the seed out of the outer protected straw like covering. And, I am wondering if it's necessary to take the outer covering off of the seeds.

If the blossom doesn't "flake", put it in a brown paper bag (so it will get some air) and wait awhile for it to ripen.

Separating seed from chaf is too much work for me. I'll plant an entire dried globe in a small starter pot, place in my greenhouse in April, and see what happens. I would think that is how it works in nature. Maybe the chaf has a reason for sticking so tightly to the seed. I don't see Mother Nature separating seeds!

Well, you definitely have a point! When I tried to plant seed with chaff, I didn't get nary a plant. When I bought the seed "cleaned", I did get plants.

I think I will buy my seed and not take a chance on the chaffed seed. Please let me know how it turns out for you.

Will do, and as soon as I can figure out how to get photos pasted I'll show you the results. I love experimenting with gardening. I'm also a very lazy gardner and try to work smart.....not hard. Take care and thanks for the info.

Have you read the book: "
"Working Smarter not Harder in the Garden" I believe that's the name. I have the book.

No I haven't . Sounds like I might have written it....I think mine would be called "the Lazy Gardner"!!!!!!!!

Ha! :) Too Funny! Maybe you should write a book and call it "The Lazy Gardener"!! We all could use a few easy tricks!

This would be one of my stories in my new book.....I was cleaning the fridge and tossing out anything that I couldn't recognize. I was cutting unappetizing oranges and lemons for the Baltimore Oriole to eat. I noticed a lot of seeds in each and took all of the orange and all of the lemon seeds (no more gin and tonics for awhile!!!) and put them into a 4 inch pot. At least this time I marked which was which. I had a bunch of those wonderful plastic, zip lock baggies that were supposed to keep your fruit fresher, longer. (So why am I here cutting up rotten fruit to begin with!!!!). I digress, put the pots into the baggies and closed the baggies and put them on the windowsill. I just checked and I am now the proud Mama of 1 orange plant and 2 lemon plants! Both large enough now that they have about 6 leaves. Moral of the story........be careful when you clean out rotten stuff from your fridge!

:) I laughed! I was thinking, now she will have to take care of citrus tree plants in Pa. I have done that before with Avocado seeds and with Pineapple Tops.

I also trimmed my Angel Winged Begonia this summer, stuck ea. stem into a pot--now I have 11 plants I need to find homes for, and winter's coming. I don't want to bring them all inside.

I read the book, "Work Smarter not Harder in the Garden". Read it earlier this year. It was a hoot. From what I remember it was an elderly lady with LOTS of experience. I did try one of the kitchen composting in the blender ideas and it sure made my orange impatiens stand tall and bloom profusely. I put everything from cantaloupe peelings and seeds, cucumber remains, onion remnants, egg shells, etc., etc., etc.. Whatever scraps I had that I did not want to carry all the way out to the compost pile and were small enough to fit in the blender plus about a tsp of baking powder. I put this all in the blender and added ample water and liquefied it and took it out to the front porch and poured it on the ground near the impatiens. Interesting concept to composting.... It was a good read for me. Thanks for reminding me birder17.

Glad you like the book. It's been awhile since I have read it. Once in awhile, I think of that book when I am out killing myself in my yard and think, "I need to re-read that book"!

Gomphrena - My grandmother called them batchlor buttons. She always grew the deep - bright - maroon colored ones. I remember her having them in a dried arrangement in the house. I have one plant this year and it is a volunteer from last year. From what has been talked about here in this thread, I'll have to pay more attention to the seed heads seed. Interesting. I took these pixs of gomphrena at the Rotary Garden in Wisc a couple years back.

There a few of the "Strawberry Fields" in the first pix, back close to the bench.

I put this Gomphrena in After we pulled the tulips. It was early Summer. I wasn't sure they would make it, but they have done very well. I used them as a border. They have had no care and water occasionally. Above them is Beautyberry, and the fruits are a beautiful fucshia. They look nice together. My yellow mums haven't bloomed yet--they will look nice with the purples. Last year, the yellow mums grew up amongst the limbs of the Beautyberry. I sh/h taken a picture.

I am going to start these from seed and use them as a border again.

birder17 - Enjoyed your pix. How did you get so many blooms on the gomphrena? They are lovely - are the standard size? The beauty berry is very pretty, too and this is sure the season for it. I also have beauty berry. I agree the yellow and purple are sure complements. My yellow mums will soon be done. They are an early variety that I have had for years and just keep dividing. Though the blooms are very small. Not sure if I can increase the size of the blooms with fertilizer or no. I did pansies and tulips together last fall and they did very well - then when it was time to pull them up it was a toss-up as to what to plant. I planted coleus which did not do very well. Perhaps the gomphrena would be a better choice should I do the pansies and tulips again.

Hi Brenda,
My Gomphrena are quite compact plants. The height is about 15 inches. I did have one plant that got taller (about 32") with looser branching and less flowers. I have no idea why one plant grew so tall. The more compact plants had way more blooms on them. I am pretty sure I pinched them back aggressively when I planted them. I wanted most of the energy to go to the roots since I was planting them late, and they would be stressed. That is probably why they were compact and put out lots of blooms. Maybe I missed pinching the one tall plant.

I read today the Gomphrenas can "easily be started from seed". They said it took 8 weeks for them to be ready to plant outside. Also, they stated the seed was at "the base of each petal". Since they said it was "easy" to start from seed, I am thinking my Strawberry Field seed is too old. I am going to order the Gomphrena haageana 'Strawberry Field' Seed. The Gomphrena globosa I am going to collect seeds from the ones I have in my garden.

If you want some seed, send a SASE, and I will send you some.

birder,

I have the one Gomphrena plant and it has several blooms. It volunteered on its own because I failed to save seed last year. I appreciate you offering seed, but I will hold off with the SASE in hopes of saving seed from my one plant. If I don't have luck, I may get back. I think the best seed for saving is when the bloom gets about 2 inches long and gets ugly looking. Mine is not to that stage yet. Doesn't have but about 3 weeks before frost. Will see. I used to have a broch (sp) made from the tiny Gomphrena blossoms. It kept its color for the longest time.

Hope I remember to pinch mine back (like you mentioned) next time.

Birder, I have never seen such luscious beauty berry. Ive never seen that many berries, ever. Do you have the plain ole beauty berry like grows in the wild?

Blooms need to turn "tan" or "gold" before picking. Color fades from the bottom of the bloom to the top. You probably already know that. If you need seed, let me know. I hope we will be successful with our seeds. :)

Birder, I would like some seeds for a SASE. Is your address in the exchange? I have saved seeds from the Strawberry Fields before and maybe 2% came up. I guessed that the SF is a hybrid and might be sterile. Do you know if that is the case?

Steadycam3
My shrub is the Callicarpa americana. Yes, it's the Native which is what I wanted as it asks for absolutely nothing. I really like the unusual fuchsia colored berries. I even like the tiny, dainty lilac blossoms up and down the limbs.

We cut ours back to about 12 inches in late winter. We get several babies, but they are easy to pull out.

I will be happy to share some Gomphrena 'globosa' seed with you. My address is in the exchange. The bracts are quite purple yet so hopefully the seed will mature before we get a hard frost which is usually by Halloween.

The Gomphrena haageana 'Strawberry Fields' is a different species. Note: haageana
The Gomphrena globosa 'Purple' is the one I have in the above picture. Note: globosa This is the one I will collect seed.

I have grown the Gomphrena haageana 'Strawberry Fields' in the past. I started them from purchased seed. When I tried to grow this from my own collected Strawberry Fields seeds, I didn't get Any germination. So, I don't have a lot of faith in growing this seed from collecting myself--either the G. globosa or G. haageana. The seed is located at the end of the bract that is closest to the center of the flower. It is enveloped in the bract that is chaff. I wonder if one has to remove the chaff before planting the seed?? If I remember correctly, the chaff was gone on the purchased seed. I Did Not remove the chaff from the seed I collected myself.

So, I will collect the seed, send some seed, and attempt to germinate the seed. BUT, let's compare notes regarding getting this cute little plant from seed to bloom.

I read on "Rob's Plants" that he has good success germinating this seed via baggie method. I did mine via Winter Sow both times: once from purchased seed with good success and the next year: with no germination.

I think some of this is repetitive from above threads. Sorry about that.

Thanks, you will hear from me soon.

I also thought it might be a self-sterile hybrid, but I can't confirm that online.

Jonna Sudenious submitted a photo to a Plant database on another gardening website. If that was a photo of a flower she was growing, it probably is NOT a hybrid, since Jonna doesn't grow many or any hybrids.

Maybe just poor pollination?

I see recommended germination conditions "Needs Light" and "Just Cover" and "well-drained medium" and "70-75F".

Tom Clothier said this:
Gomphrena haageana ,
Rio Grande globe amaranth ,
G. aurantiaca,
Type= an , ,
sow in light @ 70 to 75ºF , 7-14d ,
do not store seed below 60ºF

http://tomclothier.hort.net/page06.html

If you aren't sure when to harvest seeds, if you check the stem that holds the flowe/seed pod it will be ripe to harvest when the stem directly below is brown and dying. Plants don't waste energy on stems that have seed pods ripening and cut nutrients off when seeds are ripe, which makes the stem turn brown.

I have seen this time and time again with all types of plants and I find it facinating to see how "smart" plants are. Almost like they can think and plan.

Hybrids are not sterile. They will produce seeds and plants. Just don't come true from seeds. Iris and daylilies are a good example of hybrids and it is from the seeds of hybrids we get some beautiful and different blooms.

Hi Rick and Blomma,
I am glad you responded to this thread and appreciate your comments. It's definitely how we learn and share information, knowledge and experience.

Regarding Joanna S. picture: could you direct me to this thread? I have tried to read as much as I can about this cute but very tolerant little plant. I have read Tom C's information as well. In another place on his website, he says he refrigerates all of his seed "Except" Gomphrena, but he doesn't explain why.

Tom C., per the above thread, directs us to just barely cover and needs light to germinate.
This seed is tightly enclosed in a "pod" that looks similar to wheat seed chaff. The seed is at the end of this oval pod that was located next to the stem. SO, does the chaff keep it from getting enough Light? enough Moisture?

Rob's Plants says he got the seed to germinate using the baggy method with mixed results per attempt.

Blomma, thanks for your advice to pick the seed head off "After" the stem is brown. I hadn't thought of that. I just recognized the seed head turning tan and then, time to collect it. I love the way you think and explain things from the plants point of view. It seems so obvious when you explain it that way!

Here's a couple of pictures of the Gomphrena h. seed that I have collected in the past:
I hope these are clear enough. If not, I will try again.

The first picture simply shows the seed. See if you can see at the Left end the little brown seed.

The Second picture shows the seed and a failed attempt to pull the chaff away.

When I bought the seed, it did not have the chaff on it, when I try to eliminate the chaff, it would not come away from the seed. The chaff makes me wonder if that is what is keeping me from getting this seed to germinate.

Hi Birder17,
You are welcome. Think how nature works. The chaff is merely a way for the wind to transport the seeds. Think of dandelion. They sure don't have a problem popping up all over.

Another plant is Gallardia (blanket flower) They have a tail at one end. It is all for Nature to be able to distribue the seeds in different places. Nature is smart and takes care of its own.

If you want to get rid of some of it, trim it. Also, you can soak the seeds to wet the chaff, then plant it. I have never grown it so I can only speak in general terms. Or, rub the seeds.

If it states "need light for germination", means surface sow---no cover. That is because the seed is small and would never be able to reach the surface if covered before the embroye food inside the seed was depleted. It doesn't literally mean light just no cover. If in doubt, make a shallow furrow and place the seeds in it. Push the sides up against the seed, but not coverring. You will have the best of both worlds. Won't work for mideum or large seeds since they do need covering.

If stored properly (dry in plastic bag or container) seeds have no real age limit for viability. There again, think Nature. How many plants would the earth have if old seeds wouldn't sprout. Using the Deno method I tested different seeds that were 6 years old with no problem to sprouting. In nature, seeds lay dormant until their needs are met--temp, moisture, etc---then they will sprout.

Year ago I cleared some land in the prairie next to a house we were building. Was just prairie grass. When disturbed, wild yellow sunflowers sprouted. Who knows how long those seeds have laid there until conditions were right for their needs. Nature insist that her earth should never lay bare so does her best to protect it, even if it is more weeds.

All below sprouted with the Deno method and are old seeds tested for viability.

1] Columbine seeds
2] Datura (moon flower)
3] hardy Geranium
4] hardy Hibiscus after 2 days
5] Scabiosa

Here is a geat web page. Scroll down and you will find your plants

http://www.jlhudsonseeds.net/SeedlistF-G.htm

Blomma, I agree that not all hybrids are sterile, but some are.

I really appreciate the tip about checking the stem below the pod or seed head for ripeness.

>> This seed is tightly enclosed in a "pod" that looks similar to wheat seed chaff. The seed is at the end of this oval pod that was located next to the stem. SO, does the chaff keep it from getting enough Light? enough Moisture?

>> when I try to eliminate the chaff, it would not come away from the seed. The chaff makes me wonder if that is what is keeping me from getting this seed to germinate.

I have to admit that I have no idea. For some totally different plant, Jonna said that drying (aging?) the saved seeds longer would "release" that plant's fluffy feather-like chaff. After lengthy and thorough drying, she could remove all of it by just shaking it in a paper bag or jar.

Maybe drying your seeds even longer, or sealed up with a desiccant, will make the pod more fragile, or crack open. I'm just guessing.

Blomma's idea about soaking before planting makes sense. Some people use 0.1% hydrogen peroxide soak to "encourage" slow seeds, but germination inhibitors do not sound like the problem.

Maybe try the "coffee filter" or Deno method so you can watch them trying to germinate. After soaking the seeds, put them on a square of damp coffee filter or paper towel. Fold it over just one thickness so they can still get light. Drop it into a sandwich baggie or big Ziploc. If you seal it, seal it with lots of air trapped inside. Otherwise just make sure it stays moist and gets light.

Once it germinates, transfer it to a mall pot or cell. J. Hudson says: "Germinates in 1 - 3 weeks."

Another thing that you can do about a tough coating is to scratch them with coarse sandpaper before planting.

I forget if you ruled out poor pollination? maybe the seed pods are empty.

Birder17, you have DMail.

Well, I thought if it said it needed "light" to germinate--it needed Light to germinate. But actually needling light to germinate means the seedling won't make it to the surface otherwise.
I will say the seed is almost as big as a pin head which by any means isn't the smallest seed I germinate so I would think it could make it to the surface with the stored energy.

"Maybe drying your seeds even longer, or sealed up with a desiccant, will make the pod more fragile, or crack open. I'm just guessing."

I tried this seed the following year after collection and again the second year from collection. It should have been dry. So, no success from my collection and success from the purchased "cleaned" seed. Yet, I can't seem to "pull" off the chaff. It's a conundrum!

What would be a desiccant?

Deno method worked fairly well for "Rob's Plants" and Winter Sow worked for commercial seed, but not from home collected chaffed seed. Winter Sow stays pretty wet. So, I don't know.

I will try the Deno method and report back to this website. BTW, why does one have to leave air in the baggie? I have always squeezed out the air. Perhaps I have been doing it wrong.

What's a moll pot?

The seeds would be a little hard to scratch with sandpaper--the size of a pin head--but may be able to do it.

I believe the pollination is quite healthy. You can see bloated seed in the seed on the right in the first picture. It looks already to start using up the stored energy. I always get volunteers from seed outside.

Again, thank for taking an interest in my conundrum with Gomphrena seed and trying to help me.

If Joann S has this seed, I need to contact her and get her take on this seed.

So three questions:
What's a moll pot?
Why should you put air in your Deno baggie?
What would a desiccant be?

Birder17,
I don't recommend coffe filter since they are too stiff. Damp kitchen towel is soft and surround the seed much better. I use 1/2 piece of moist towel folded 2x in half. Place in a zippered sandwitch bag. Seal leaving 1/2" open and blow into the bag and quickly seal it. The air will stay in if sealed correctly. The reason air is blown into the bag is so the plastic isn't laying so tightly against the paper towel containing the seeds

yea what is a moll pot? I plant in 6-packs (walmart) which are 1" sq pots as soon as the seed sprouted.

"A desiccant is a substance , as calcium oxide, used as a drying agent."

To desiccate means to preserve (used for food)by removing moisture. I'm sure that would REALLY help germination. LOL!

Peroxide does not do a thing to seeds. Unless I am wrong, Nature does not use it either, and is successful in spite of it. If rot and mold is a concern, use a mixed solution of fungicide as a preventative measure.

Below is daylily seeds a la the Deno method after soaking overnight and is placed in a layer of moist paper towel, then inserted into a baggie, actually a zippered craft bag found in Walmart craft dept. Works for any seeds, except tiny.

This message was edited Oct 4, 2013 6:49 PM

Thanks for the instructions. I will use the paper towel.

>> Why should you put air in your Deno baggie?

My thought was to start with plenty of oxygen, and some of the people who suggest sealing the bag also suggest trapping air.

However, thin plastic film does let oxygen migrate slowly right through it, and seeds in storage don't use much O2. Once they start germinating, they must start using more since they are using stored food for energy, and are not yet photosynthesizing.

I've read some people say that closing it is only to keep the paper wet longer, but I inspect and add water often instead. In fact I usually use loosely nesting glass bowls instead of baggies. The slowest seeds that germinate indoors germinate in a few weeks. Deno's method with sealed bags and maybe a 2-month inspection interval is much better if you have a multi-month and multi-stage stratification procedure.

BTW, Deno's books say various things about dry storage of seeds. He was really against it in the first two, but not the later supplement. he does say to choose your humidity level on a species-by-species basis.

Blomma's reason for trapping air in the bag makes the most sense to me!

Who said "moll pot"? I can't find it.

>> What would be a desiccant?

Anything that removes humidity. I like silica gel (craft store flower drying isle). 1.5 pounds for $7.50. Regenerate at 250 F.

Labs use Drierite (anhydrous calcium sulfate). That's the "blue gravel" you might have seen in high school chemistry.
https://secure.drierite.com/catalog3/page4a.cfm

Products like "Oil Dry" are Bentonite clay containing montmorillonite. You can regenerate that at 150 F to re-use it or make it stronger. But it is so cheap, why bother? 40 pounds for $8.

Or you can bake rice until it is not-quite light brown. Once it starts to brown, it looses some of its dehydrating power.

Dry milk powder has some dehydrating ability.

Okay! I made a typo--Regarding "moll pot"
Rick, you wrote on Oct. 4th "transfer to a MALL pot"
So, after re-reading Rick's above Oct. 4th post, I think you meant "SMALL" pot not MALL pot.
Then, I made a typo calling it Moll pot! Oops! Too funny. Oh well, that was easier to solve than getting the Gomphrena seeds to germinate.

Ahhh!

Yup, "small".

Hah! The "Telephone Game"...whisper a secret, then pass it down....LOL!!

Hi, Evelyn!