Mine are still in the car!
Group buy FALL bulbs Phase II
Half of mine are planted. Just the iris ret and alliums left for the ground and a couple of tulips for containers. Happy, you are going to be planting bulbs til Christmas LOL - I know because I've actually done it before. I ordered 1000+ daffodils at a time for 3 years in a row... Sadly, those daffodils are still alive and growing, but rarely bloom anymore. They don't seem to need to be divided, so the problem is that they either need fertilizer, are too deep under woodland leaves accumulation, or just too shady for them pout pout.
I have about 25% of mine planted, the rest are still in the trunk. Should I go ahead and plant the amaryllis in a pot now?
Will be planting bulbs after work on Sat and as long as it takes on Sunday, lol. I'm sure my sister needs some bulbs, I may have to share (fewer for me to plant).
When I've made big bulb purchases before, I've planted bulbs over the course of several months -- literally into February. They still did fine. I'm going to save some of the bulbs in the fridge to fill in empty spots in the spring, since I didn't get around to marking those spots this spring. Alan Armitage says that works, and if it works for him, that's good enough for me.
AspenHill, I don't know why your daffs would produce foliage but no blooms. I can say that I've worked really hard to only plant bulbs with a good reputation for perennializing; maybe that has helped. Mine that have not fared well have slowly disappeared -- so no foliage. (For example, Avalanche, which has a great reputation, has done poorly here -- and I've replanted it several times. Of Avalanche, Brent & Becky say: "Some daffodils that will perennialize even in areas with uncertain winters are 'St Keverne,' 'Carlton,' 'Avalanche,' and selections from the jonquilla and tazetta divisions of daffodils." http://www.southernliving.com/home-garden/gardens/tips-daffodil-care-00400000010377/ Not my experience. Carlton has done fabulously for me; Avalanche is awful.)
I would have thought you'd get enough sun in the woodland before the trees leaf out. Mine bloom even if fairly heavy shade (of course it depends on the type of bulb). I suppose the leaf cover could be thick enough to suppress the new growth, but I'm surprised by that.
We do fertilize once a year or so, but I don't think that's it.
So I'm puzzled.
It is pretty disappointing that the daffodil trail I envisioned is not measuring up to what I thought it would be. I've got to try to experiment with a few things to see if I can figure out what the problem is. Does anyone know what the best time to fertilize is, how often, and with which fertilizer? I've heard bone meal, but isn't there also a hollytone for bulbs?
I transfered mine from my van to a car, does that count?
Interesting discussion on 'perennializing' bulbs and varieties. I've said before that the earlier bloomers do best for me because I feel they get more sun time to store energy before the trees leaf out and shade ensues.
Feeding them definitely makes a difference. If theyv'e not been fed for a while, it may take 2 years of feeding to get bulbs back up to blooming speed. If you dig up a clump of 'just foliage/no flowers' my guess would be bulbs smaller than those you planted. Amer Daff Society recs are feed three times per year...early fall, when leaves emerge, and at bloom with a 5 10 10 fertilizes, (Too much 'nitogen' means lots of foliage and few flowers so more 'phosperous')
One year I spent hours selecting 50 double or triple nosed bulbs of one variety. That Spring they were spectacular but next spring was mostly foliage while those babies grew.
Final thought, when I plant bulbs in certain parts of my yard, I might as well be planting them in containers as even amended, the clay in the unamended hole just stops those bulbs from expanding much. I've read each bulb needs 4-6 inches of its own space (water/light/food) to grow well. Tree roots can rob bulbs of their due,too.
This message was edited Oct 18, 2013 7:14 PM
Jan, you are amazing!! Wish I could claim to have all of mine planted! I'm hoping to make some progress this weekend.
Aspen, I got something called 'bulbtone' recently at a nursery. It says to sprinkle a little in with the bulbs when you plant and it's supposed to help. Of course, my fear is that next spring I'll look out on a sea of soil with only one or two of the bulbs sprouting up, the rest all rotted in place... :-o
On the positive side, I planted some fall crocus in early September. I was beginning to despair, certain I had planted them at the wrong depth and managed to kill them all, and then just the other day I noticed numerous tiny shoots sprouting up through the light mulch. Yay! They are alive after all!! :-D
Thanks for your insights on this issue, Coleup! I do have a spot picked out for them that I hope will provide enough sun, especially before the neighbor's trees leaf out.
Here is a link that also lists 'high temperatures above 90 as a reason for few blooms!
http://www.agardenforthehouse.com/2012/04/first-aid-for-non-blooming-daffodils/
Do more northerly gardeners really have more fun?
Bulbtone is good.
Hehehe, I think I am only finished because I didn't get as many bulbs as everyone else. I only got 235. And the grape hyacinths are little, so many went into same hole.
I am hoping for 'happy' accidents next spring. I have a drawing around somewhere that is supposed to show me where things are planted, but, I hit several areas that already had some bulbs. I am sooo NOT organized that way. Shoot, not ANY way!! I did stand in my kitchen and look out the widows to try to envision where I wanted to put the newbie bulbs so they would really pop from that vantage point.
LOL, Jan--you can tell we really went to town as a group when 235 bulbs is a relatively small amount!! :-D
I have also been wondering how I will remember where I've put everything!
I dug a bunch more undersized, need-to-be separated bulbs out of the front bed as we put some new daffs in (50 N. Ice Follies and 50 N. Geranium). Some of the little daff bulbs went to Martina for her back yard, some will go out back in my yard... they'll bloom in a year or two, but probably not much next spring.
I planted out half of my hyacinths along the driveway and am planning to force the other 20 bulbs.
Martina's son helped dig holes in the peppermint along the other side of the driveway, and we put in N. 'Dutch Master' and N. 'Acteae' there.
Chris at ADR said, sure, go ahead and see if I can sell off the amaryllis bulbs, please. Aspen, you're down for 3 'Misty', 5 remaining. Terp, how many 'Flamenco Queen' would you like? Anybody else??
As you all know--often I will offer a lot of daff bulbs at a Swap.
These are bulbs that have not bloomed for about 2 years and i have dug up.
As far as I know--that is a sign that they are too crowded.
Usually-- when planting bulbs--don't they say to plant them 6" apart???
That would cover a few years of the bulbs multiplying and still blooming
presentably.
I admit--that I am very lax at fertilizing anything.....one of my shortcomings...
Cat--The "TONES" fertilizers are great! They are organic and non-burning.
Espoma makes the "Tones"....There are a lot of varieties--and I use them all.
Rose Tone
Plant Tone
Bulb Tone
Holly Tone...etc.
Buying the bigger bags (20lbs(?) ) is most economic. But--unless you have a
well stocked garden center--all you can find is the smaller bags--8lbs. I think.
These can cost around $9-$12 depending on where you buy them, but these will be
more available.
When you come to the Seed Swap in Frederick next spring--we all usually go to
a nearby Nursery. Jill has connections with there--and we are able to get 10%
off some things. They are VERY well stocked in supplies. Not so much in plants...
They DO carry all the "Tones"--so you can stock up. Also many other hard to find
products. Like Systemic Granules.
The only "Tone" my HD carries in the big bags is "Holy Tone"...These can run around
$22 or so. That is the average price of these 20lb bags. Some of the smaller bags
are also available.
YES! "Tones" fertilizers are great! Gita
We fertilize bulbs when they just start to shoot up their foliage in the spring. It makes a noticeable difference.
thanks for the info on bulbtone, Gita! That's good to know it doesn't burn or anything. You're right about the bag size--I ended up with two of the smaller bags because that's all they had! I had also gotten a large bag of hollytone earlier in the season but have not used much of it. I look forward to getting some rosetone next spring when we go up to Frederick! :-)
Critter, sounds like you are making good progress with your bulbs! I need to get out there and plant some myself this morning.
Yay for Martina's son helping you, critter!!!!!
Cat,
If you have any evergreens, Azaleas. Rhodo, Camellias or any other
acid-loving plants, now is the time to apply Holy Tone to them.
Repeat again in early spring. That is usually all established evergreens need.
If you want to turn a pink Hydrangea to blue--feed it acid type fertilizers and wait.
It takes a couple years..Holy Tone alone will not do it...use any other acid sources.
Lets see.....Pine needle mulch--Coffee Grinds--Tea bags--Cottonseed meal, etc.
G.
thanks, Gita. I have a ton of azaleas and one rhodo. Would applying the fertilizer now cause them to sprout growth just as winter is coming?
cat--wait until they all go dormant. Then apply the Holy Tone.
Just sprinkle a couple hand-fulls around the root area.
We are still in so-so warm temperatures. Maybe late November?
G.
okay, thanks, Gita!! :-)
I'll just pipe in here real quick that Aluminum Sulfate is a great soil acidifier as well, but like Gita said with the other stuff she listed, it takes some time.
I have read (and heard) that stuff like Peat and Pine needles tend to lose some of their acidity in the decomposition process. Thoughts on this, anyone?
From what I've read, mulching with pine straw, throwing coffee grounds around, etc won't have much impact on soil pH. I think our clay is just such a "buffer" that any attempt to shift pH isn't likely to have much effect. I'll try the aluminum sulfate, though...
Mostly, I sprinkle "Ironite" under plants that like acid soil... greens up yellowing leaves... somebody explained to me that the "real" problem is that acid-loving plants can't access the iron in more neutral or alkaline soils, so they don't so much need soil acidifier, what they need is iron in a form they can take up. Works here, anyway.
Jill,
I could do two Flamenco, two Mitsy.
OK, I think that's 5 'Flamenco' and 2 'Misty' left. :-)
Just FYI, 'Misty' is a miniature amaryllis variety, so the bulbs aren't "big as your head," but IMO they're a very good size for the variety... I'd say probably 18/20, and although I haven't grown 'Misty' before I'd guess you'll get at least 2 bloom stalks from them.
Misty - Meyer hybrid registered by Berbee Beheer 2004. Misty' begs close inspection. Smallish semi-trumpet form flowers of cream with green throat are heavily brushed with shades of rose. The filaments are a deeper color, nearly coral. 'Misty' is here for the sophisticate and the snob (or anyone taking issue with bright colors); it bears little resemblance to the big and bold amaryllises associated with holiday mass marketing. The nodding presentation is almost mournful, and certainly delicate. Emaryllis has a soft spot for 'Misty.' Subtle charm.
Flamenco - Yet another spectacular Penning introduction from crosses with a picotee type. The family resemblance to 'Charisma,' 'Showmaster,' and 'Temptation' is clear.
Taken from http://www.emaryllis.com/photo-library/single-flowered-a-h/
So Paul, does this mean you are a sophisticated snob? ;) HAAHAAHAAA!!!!!!
FYI, $7.50 each for 'Misty' and $7.25 each for 'Flamenco Queen'.
Did we ever come to a resolution for the extra bulbs?
Paul, I've got 2 'Misty' and 2 'Flamenco Queen' earmarked for you. I think there are 3 more 'FQ' available beyond that, but I don't "need" to sell them... if they don't sell, I'll give them as gifts.
Let me know if you still want 2 of each (or more of the FQ), or none... I can hold them until you have occasion to come up this way; they seem to be staying pretty dormant for me in the basement. :-)
One of my bulbs has begun to sprout tiny stems pushing upward. Nothing is happening yet with the other 2. Not sure what that means... Is there a way to tell if the bulbs are still okay? I wonder if they are getting enough sun?
2 each is great. Thank you.
CatMint, some amaryllis bulbs take longer to "wake up" than others... also, the one not sprouting yet might still be very busy growing roots. Warmth (especially bottom heat) will speed up sprouting; cooler temps will slow them down. That helps you if you're trying to "time" blooms for Thanksgiving or Christmas. Did you have a chance to take a look at the "amaryllis 101" articles I wrote?
Paul, I'll save 2 each for you.
thanks, Critter--yes, I definitely read the articles but info seems to fall out of my brain with surprising speed these days :-o ...
ssshhhhlllupppp, there goes another one…. no wait that was MY brain…Yes the growing of plants teaches patience.
LOL, hope there's not something in the mid-atlantic water... I'm having the same problem!
I think it has contaminated my water supply also, whatever it is. UGH!!!
#1: This is my brain
#2: This is my brain after learning something new.
It's terribibble.
LOL Speedie--that is definitely my brain, too!
Join the Club of the "Forgetful".
Speedie--
You will not be admitted---you are too young for this membership.
You just have a gazillion things going through your hear every minute,
No wonder you cannot remember the insignificant stuff....
I have an excuse.............called Old Age. G.
Hah! we're not accepting that excuse.
"What grows, never grows old."
~Noah benShea