100 % failure of cuttings in power cloner

Good afternoon,

We purchased two Botanicare Power Cloner 165 units over a year ago for a horticulture program at a rehabilitation hospital. We have not been able to root any cuttings that we have tried to root thus far ( 0% success rate, 100% failure rate ). Obviously, we seem to be doing something wrong. I have documented our cloning procedures below and would appreciate your input as to what we are doing wrong.

We tried to clone Common Lilac (Syringa vulgaris) in one cloner and Star Magnolia (Magnolia stellata) in the other cloner in December of 2009. We used bottled spring water with Hormex Root Stimulant Liquid. Results after 2 months = 0% success rate, 100% failure rate.

We tried to clone Butterfly Bush (Buddleia davidii) in both cloners in November of 2010. We used tap water this time but allowed the cloner to run for several days (to get rid of any chlorine in the water). We used Rhizopon AA Water Soluble Tablets. We placed a propagatio/heating mat under the power cloner reservoir unit and had it set at 70 degrees to keep the water at that temperature. We thought Buttefly Bush was sure to root because it is an easy to root species. Results after 2 months = 0% success rate, 100% failure rate.

We would gratefully appreciate help from anyone who has an idea of what we are doing wrong.

Thank you.

EDDY, here is a thread you might look at and don't hesitate to D-mail posters and ask them direct questions. Like Hosta jim.

http://davesgarden.com/community/forums/t/1100558/?hl=hostajim

I have never used a cloner and have little knowlege of them but it occurs to me that perhaps you are trying to root woody plants during the wrong time of year.

I would try the same plants in the spring after they have some new growth on them. New wood indicates that the growth hormones are active. Usually by fall these same hormones have wound down so the plant can go into dormancy for the winter.

A tender plant that does not have a dormant cycle could likely be cloned any time of the year.

ardesia - you maybe on to something.. time of the year can have a huge impact on success or failure rate. And typically those kinds of shrubs are rooted in spring or even late summer/fall as you mentioned - Nov/Dec is a bit late.

Does your cloner have a humidity dome to protect the cuttings? If you are in NJ during heating season then it is off-the-chart-way-too-dry to root anything without a greenhouse or humidity dome.
Another thing is that those temps seem too warm for those plants at this time of year. They should be dormant in NJ now and warm temps are just a fast path to crash them quick when you are bucking the season.
Third is that you didn't mention light. If the plants are dormant they won't grow roots without being "woken" up. I would use at *least* 4 shoplight fluorescent bulbs placed within a couple inches of the cuttings on a long photoperiod (16-18hrs/ day). Super-bright light is absolutely critical to success in winter.
You also need to make sure that you are using the very minimum water to keep them going. They need minimum water and a partial surface dry at every cycle, in order to stay turgid as long as possible. How long are your water-on and water-off cycles?
I don't like adding anything at all to the water in winter. You are already in a much longer rooting cycle time because of the season, and that longer time changes the effective-concentration/exposure to the cutting, so the results are unpredictable, and many additives can foul/clog/poison the system. The cutting already has everything it needs to started.
You also didn't mention sterilizing the system before you used. Everything inside & out needs to be virtually germ-free when you start, to give you the longer period you need.
It's really a waiting game. It takes a lot longer in winter for dormant plants, and you need every edge to keep them from rotting for as long as possible.
- Tom

This message was edited Jan 18, 2011 6:51 PM