How to prune old pussy willow

We have a very tall pussy willow that has been declining in output the past couple of years. We moved in only 3 years ago, and so we don't know when it was last pruned and how. It looks like a tree, with a rather wide trunk at the base. The height is about 13 feet high. We would ideally like it about 7 feet high, though mainly I would just like it to be healthy. Thanks for any advice.

Can you post a picture and describe the growing conditions, such as soil, sun, proximity to a structure etc. It makes a big difference if its an upright or weeping cultivar. Since this tree was already in place when you became its steward you may not know the exact name, but if by some chance you do, that would be excellent.

You could search the PlantFiles for a similar looking tree to try to identify yours.

Perhaps? http://davesgarden.com/guides/pf/go/53021/

Hi. This picture shows the bush right now. I had remembered incorrectly--it actually has about 6 large branches at the base, each about 2-3 inches in diameter. My apologies that the picture has a lot of other bushes in it--the pussy willow is in the center and is the tallest bush/tree in the photo. You can see the six or so thick grey stems coming up from the ground.

The light is full sun, though the base does get shaded in the afternoon due to the large rhododendrons behind. If I cut the bush shorter, it will get more afternoon shade due to being shorter than the rhodos. Eventually, though, we will likely be drastically cutting back the rhododendrons as well, but not for a couple of years.

I forgot to add that I do not know the name of the cultivar. It could very well be the one in the link that you sent of the American Pussy Willow. The catkins look like the ones in the pictures.

You can prune your Salix discolor in late winter or right after it blooms and the catkins have lost their appeal. There are two ways to prune this shrub. You can cut it all back hard to the ground. In two or three years you will have a nice sized shrub. This is called rejuvination pruning. Or you can remove 1/3 of the thickest oldest stems at ground level. Repeat the 1/3 oldest stem removal annually and you will have a blooming vigorous shrub kept smaller in size than its normal size at maturity if left unpruned.

Regarding "drastically cutting back" the rhododendrons. They can be pruned to an extent but you must be very careful and knowledgeable about pruning techniques for broadleaved evergreens and specifically rhodies. They don't readily replace lost growth. You could end up with dead branch stubs and dieback to the trunk. They form buds in the summer that overwinter to be next year's flowers. Prune at the wrong time and you will never have blooms. Hard pruning is not an option to maintain a blooming rhody.

Edited for lousy spelling.

This message was edited Jan 10, 2011 10:30 PM

Thank-you for your answer regarding the Salix. I am wondering why there are only six stems at the bottom. It seems like as a bush it should have been putting out more new growth all the time? Hopefully by removing a third of the stems, this will stimulate more growth at the bottom?

I had heard that one could use rejuvenation pruning on rhododendrons. Perhaps on second thought this isn't necessary for us. The bushes are very pretty the way they are when they bloom. I guess I thought they no longer looked "fresh" and I thought rejuvenation pruning might fix this, though I really have no experience with it with rhododendrons. They do get full sun, which is stressful on them. They are not protected from the wind or elements at all.

this past year i trimmed my pussy willow right to the ground - it is located in an area that does not get much attention and was a tree with only three main trunks. hoping to keep it a bush for now on.

That should do the trick wha. It will need an annual or at the very least, every other year pruning to keep it the size you want. Salix discolor is tough and vigorous.

Rhodies do have latent buds on old wood, but I'm not sure how to reliably encourage their growth. Rejuvenating rhodies is a 3-year project. With a good oakleaf mulch it is easily accomplished.

salix-man. That will work for some, but not all Rhodies. I've seen some disasters. Not all respond with latent bud break. Best to try one shrub and see what happens.

I think there is a line between too much sun {scald} and too little. I have seen many just dieback if all stems are cut at once. Best to do a 3 year pruning. Timing is important, best is just before active growth begins.

I have wonderful large Rhodo's. Last summer I got under one and cleaned out the weeds carefully, then piled them under as a mulch. it looks to me like it isn't going to develop its flowers this year. Did it hate the top layer being disturbed 'that much'.... I thought I was very careful.
The Rhodo's I didn't do anything to -( same variety) have large flower buds looking like they should in Feb. The first one has the flower buds but they have stayed the size if growth buds. I'll let you know if they flower or drop off. I am confused!

Rhodies depend on mycorriza in mulch as an adjunct to roots. Best is a mulch of oak leaves. The roots need to be shaded and/or mulched deeply. Perhaps when you pulled the weeds the surface roots were disturbed at the time the flower buds were starting to swell.