new cuttings

Mulberry, FL

I would just worry it would be a spready thing if its frost damage and you know this you know what your doing

Thumbnail by Danasplants
Northeast, WA(Zone 5a)

Some of them are from frost damage. Not all. I worry too that it is a spready thing. But why would the foliage look so good and be growing so good?

edited to add.
Teresa, help!! What is wrong?

This message was edited May 23, 2010 10:24 AM

Mulberry, FL

pic's are the most helpful

Northeast, WA(Zone 5a)

Dana I am afraid to send you a picture 'cause I think there is something wrong with it and I think you know what I mean. Can't remember the name of it but that is probably what it is. You too Teresa.

Jeanette

Northeast, WA(Zone 5a)

Ok, I took the pictures and now if I can just get them on here. new camera. Here is 1.

Thumbnail by Jnette
Mulberry, FL

I am new with these you need a expert for this.... sorry

Northeast, WA(Zone 5a)

#2

Thumbnail by Jnette
Northeast, WA(Zone 5a)

Well, I won't send any more. Maybe Gordon or Teresa will have an answer. Thanks Dana

La Grange, TX(Zone 8b)

I've been frustrated by die-back in the past. It appears in some cultivars more than others. In some Brugs the die-back can go down far enough to kill the entire plant while in others it will go down to a node or a branch junction and stop. I've noticed that it happens more often in cool or cold and humid weather. This almost always happened while I was overwintering my Brugs in the greenhouse. I now wait until the spring to prune. I think it also helped when I started keeping the greenhouse warmer — above 50ºF.

There was a discussion about die-back a year or two ago. Someone mentioned that die-back is caused by a fungus. Spraying the cut with a fungicide will help prevent it.

To give plants credit for knowing what they are doing is not supported by scientific evidence. There are instances of stressed trees producing chemicals that induce other members of the same species to protect themselves against the stress inducer, but it's not as if they know what they are doing and why. Plants are not capable of becoming addled.

Use sterile pruners to cut back to healthy and spray the cut with a fungicide. This keeps fungus from entering through the fresh cut and gives the plant a chance to seal the wound.

Northeast, WA(Zone 5a)

Thanks Betty, do you have any particular fungicide in mind? Also, one time someone on here told me that neither boiling water nor alcohol sterilizes the pruners. If not either of those, what do you think does it?

Victoria, BC(Zone 8a)

Jnette, your plant looks pretty good to me. The growth is good, but the die-back, as usual, needs to come to its own stop-line. I'm not saying that plants can actually 'think', but they do stop die-back when it suits them.

I've had a couple of plants that have died back completely to ground level. These would have been gonners, but I kept them, and a new shoot sprouted out from the roots with both plants.

Mind you, not all will recover from full die-back, but I bet more than half will. Don't give up on your plants. They're hardier than people give them credit for. ;-)

Northeast, WA(Zone 5a)

Thanks Teresa. That is why I can't figure it out. Because since I re-potted this plant last week it has gone great guns. Actually, my daughter tells me I treat my plants too good because I want them to look healthy so my brugs don't bloom. Lotsa nice healthy foliage, but no blooms.

I really appreciate the help from you all. I have always had spider mites but not diseases. I guess I had better quit taking the plants outside during the day until it warms up. This weather is awful.

Brooklyn, NY(Zone 7b)

yes...die back is somewhat mysterious to me still.. I feel the amount of water has a big contributing factor.. then a fungal condition starts up..or has a leg in the door through it's weakness....I use bleach to clean my tools..
I stopped by a brug competior near by today.. all of his are in the greenhouse to kick them into gear and they are looking good.. all cramed in together all the plants look to be about 5' tall now.. it's plenty warm to put them out.. but he's trying to blast off with a pile of flowers.. he'd best hurry.. I 'm working on 1/2 dozen buds now..

Thumbnail by GordonHawk
Brooklyn, NY(Zone 7b)

shot from the opposite side of the forcing room

Thumbnail by GordonHawk
Northeast, WA(Zone 5a)

What are your forcing them to do, bloom?? Are you going into the business Gordon? You sure didn't do this on the roof did you?

Then what? Are these in place of your garden?

, WI

So glad I popped in to see what you all are up too. I too have noticed this dye back this year. Zone 4/5 brr... I noticed it on the ones in the gh. Vulc hybrids all had it. Couple of my other ones too... I did heat this year with a wood fireplace. I am thinking what Betty said. It might have gotten a tad bit too cold in there when the fire was out and they got a little cold due to my gas furnace was set a little low 50'ish.... They were all on the cold side of the gh too away from the furnace. Thanks for asking about it and all the answers! Learn something new everyday regarding these plants. Now to go spray with windex Lol.... I love it :)

Northeast, WA(Zone 5a)

Wallaceone, are you saying you spray your plants with Windex????

Jeanette

Brooklyn, NY(Zone 7b)

I get it on the stray limbs of ones that are out in the cool room... 45-55 * F I also get it on limbs of ones grown in the house.. temps always over 75* F and usually late in the winter .. it starts... like I said.. I'm miffed.. I cut..way back... the disease or whatever it is is in the limb... way before the actual rot is showing.. it never usually takes up way down where I've cut it to..

Northeast, WA(Zone 5a)

Sorry, but I am so glad to hear I am not alone. I do hope/think Teresa is right. Got my fingers crossed but it got to the new growth and appears it may have stopped.

Weather is 55 and terribly wet with rain. Has done nothing but rain and I have had them outside for a couple of weeks. See, I don't have room in the house. I winter them over in my pantry but it is not cold enough. High 40s and low 50s all winter. New growth. Weak. So, I gave up and brought them out to try to save them. As it is I lost 2.

La Grange, TX(Zone 8b)

Jnette,

Would you be able to put some florescent lights in the pantry? If you can't get them to go dormant, it might be best to keep them growing even if it is slowly. Minimum temperatures in the greenhouse during winter this past year was 52ºF. Daytime temperatures are usually higher — anywhere up to the upper 70s. With plenty of light and fertilizer, I don't get weak growth. Brugs with some insignis or versicolor probably need warmer temperatures. I got a bit of dieback on those. However, I would have a difficult time convincing my DH that I need to raise the thermostat some more.

Northeast, WA(Zone 5a)

My pantry isn't very big and I have a Metal Halide bulb in a reflector and also an HPS bulb in a reflector. I wonder about maybe hanging some mylar behind them and then just hanging those lights in there?

Wonder how my canned goods would take to that?? Or the potatoes and onions?

Do you think those bulbs would heat it up? You know, this might defeat the purpose of the pantry. Maybe I will have to have another room built in my basement. My basement is too warm for the brugs to keep growing. The aphids and mites would eat them up. Tried it. I just couldn't keep up with them. The temps in the pantry keep those critters down.

, WI

Jnette I just read about windex on this forum Lol... I have never heard of it before. But no I am not using windex :)

Northeast, WA(Zone 5a)

That is funny. Wouldn't surprise me tho. Nothing does any more. Just had a young moose eating grass by my deck.

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