I planted a weeping willow last spring and staked it out so the intense wind wouldn't damage it.
I read on the web that I shouldn't support it for longer than a year.
Well, the poor thing looks all bowed over because of the wind. Even when the wind dies down it now has a sad list to it.
Should I place the supports back around it?
Dawn
Yes, I would, but make sure the stake goes all the way to the top of the tree. You can secure it to the stake with panty hose strips - that way, the bark can 'breathe' and it can continue to grow without bending.
If you don't stake it, it will grow that way most likely.
I would stake it and use panty hose, they work!
Panty Hose. Never heard of that before.
OK, now should I put the metal fence posts back in (about 2 ft from tree) or should I ram a wooden post right beside the trunk?
I wouldn't put anything right beside the trunk, I would think that could damage the main roots. You may need to put something farther out in the yard to pull it, as it is pretty tall, I think they call them guide wires? Maybe someone else will chime in. I know that willows grow fast so if you don't get it shaped up soon, it may root too firmly to change it.
I have my Willow sapling staked right up against the trunk and have had no signs of a problem with the tree. At this point, it is important to tie it to the stake in such a way that it will be true and straight. Once it's caliper increaces - in a couple of years - you can remove the stake and it SHOULD grow straight for you.
If the stake is put in from the begining of planting, it would be safe to put it next to the trunk, at this point however it may have more roots developed around the trunk and driving in a stake with much width to it, could damage those roots I would think.
Ok, Thanks.
I'll fester on the advice and get her taken care of this week.
Yes, "fester" is the right word. I'll be gnawing on this issue all day probably.
I love my baby willow and I want her to flourish.
Thanks again.
Dawn
your house is beautiful!
Thanks Lynnie!
Its fun to putter around fixing it up. Kinda feels like playing house.
Ok, the weeping willow is standing tall and almost straight now. It took the original 4 posts and and extra one to get it to hold its 'chin' up. Has pretty good posture now.
I was afraid to support it after reading those articles but it needed HELP.
Thanks everybody!
Dawn
you're welcome, and I think you did the right thing.
In reality, a weeping willow is not a good lawn tree at all.
WW's are very brittle, messy trees with a VERY invasive root system. WW's are best planted on the shore of a body of water so the tree has access to the moisture it needs. If there are any places where the willow can get its roots into your sewer system, you will be fighting a losing battle. WW's are beautiful trees, but in the right place.
I would remove the tree and give it to someone that has a body of water where the tree can be planted and plant another tree more suited to a residential landscape in your front yard. That WW will eventually engulf your entire yard. WW's are HUGE trees.
My .02
Mike
Mike
I "know" all that. You would not believe how many times I paced off my front yard to find the best site for the willow. Its projected 40ft spread will fit nicely in where it is planted. The sewer lines are in the backyard. Wouldn't even think of planting it near any pipes.
Nope, I WANTED a weeping willow. Sometimes you just gotta go with what you WANT and do the best you can.
I think my area doesn't allow the weeping willow to grow as huge as other places. I have yet to find a full size weeping willow in any part of the town.
I'm willing to put up with the messiness.
Dawn
Hi Dawn,
OK, as long as you know about the tree and some of its problems - enjoy it! (:o) WWs are beautiful trees!
I would think that WWs would get even larger in OK than here in the north. Maybe the summer heat is a little more than they really like.
Mike
Just saw your thread re staking and wanted to pass on my solution:
Go to a serious building supply place and buy reinforcing rods ("rebars") to use as stakes. The staff will usually cut them to the length you prefer (allowing 2+' in the ground) and even cut them on an angle so they go into the ground very easily. They are strong, almost invisible when driven alongside the trunk of a newly planted tree, easily attached loosely to the entire trunk - even up to 8 feet - so you don't get a 'top flop' with a short stake on a tall tree. They probably even add iron to the soil. They just give the new tree that extra bit of rigidity it needs to stand up to strong winds through the winter and spring. Just used them for 15 green giant arbs (6-8') planted in the fall, and didn't lose a single one.
Bob, thanks for that idea!
