What is this

noonamah, Australia

This one doesn't go completely under so much but the tuber does. No harm from occasional waterlogging.

Thumbnail by tropicbreeze
Kansas City (Joyce), MO(Zone 5a)

I would be tickled to death if mine ever got that big or even 1/2 that big.
It rained on mine last night, have to admit last year when it took off it was in the garden room and stuck with me watering it in a very tiny pot. It did dry out quickly and I hate to admit I am not the best during the week to keep things watered.....

Where can you buy these different kinds...would love to find a variegated one...would love to grow these...

noonamah, Australia

Ebay often has these advertised. Or see if you can do a trade on this site. There are also some online nurseries that handle them, just google and see what comes up.

Kansas City (Joyce), MO(Zone 5a)

Ok, another year has gone by and I still haven't killed my plant. I am so excited. There are 3 leaves up now. Glad I went back and read the old posts. I have moved it outside but now i am afraid of the wind and may move it back it. It gets really really windy at my house.

I had forgot what pot I stuck it in and while cleaning out the garden room, there it was growing on its own waiting for some water, since I had not watered it all fall, winter, or spring, wish I would of taken a picture of it before it unfurled when I found it.

You guys have been so helpful.
AuntB if you are out there, I love my strange little bulb...rofl.

Thumbnail by happgarden
Poughkeepsie, NY(Zone 6a)

Good growing! Very nice!

(Debra) Derby, KS(Zone 6a)

I will let her know, Joyce.. she has a whole yard of them.. they come back every spring and she is in zone 5 right?

Kansas City (Joyce), MO(Zone 5a)

Yes I am pretty sure AuntB is zone 5b I am zone 5a, but I have not guts to leave them out...rofl. Maybe if I get enough babies I will try.

I so loved going back and reading all the posts and help everyone gave me when I initially submitted this. You all are such great folks.

Sarasota, FL(Zone 9b)

Happ, just an idea here. Sometimes your property will have a little 'micro-climate' that will support much more tender plants than the rest of the yard through winter. Usually a sheltered area on the south side of a building that gets sun all day in winter. Look for a spot like this, and I'd bet your amorphs would survive.

My daughter's house in Salt Lake (also Zone 5) has such a spot - in summer there is a tree that shades it, but all winter after the leaves fall, it gets sun. Even when there is snow on the ground everywhere, that spot melts and stays warm. The sun beats on the house wall and warms it, then it releases warmth all night. We have lots of interesting stuff that overwinters in this, our "nursery bed" that normally would be toes up. Pansies bloom there dependably all winter, and we've had nasturtiums re-seed there too. Tulips in this bed bloom over a month sooner than the rest of the yard.

I have a spot like this too, and have had cannas in bloom all year - even through the record cold winter 2 yrs ago - when I tuck the pots against this south-facing wall (outside a french door that leaks a little heat from the house - Florida houses are notoriously badly insulated) My (very tender) plumeria in a pot also retained all its leaves through the last two winters there.

Kansas City (Joyce), MO(Zone 5a)

I might try that when I feel I have enough to test on, one of my friends says she does it and they come back just fine.....

(Linda Kay) Amarill, TX(Zone 7a)

So how long after they are in the tree stage will they produce a flower?

noonamah, Australia

What you're calling a "tree" is a leaf. They flower before putting up a leaf. The bigger the leaf you get in the previous season the better the chance of getting a flower in the following season.

Kansas City (Joyce), MO(Zone 5a)

That is just so odd, when I think that is a leaf and not a "tree". Sort of blooms like a surprise lily or naked lady.... I have never had a bloom yet. Am excited about the two new leaves I have.

tropicbreeze, are you in the middle of your winter?

noonamah, Australia

If you fertilise weakly weekly and keep them in as warm a place as possible (not full sun) they should develop well. Leave them for a while after the leaf withers. The tuber needs to withdraw all the nutrients from the leaf AND the roots. The roots last a bit longer than the leaf. The bigger the tuber develops the quicker it will flower.

My prainii is now as full grown as it will get this season. The titanum has broken its dormancy but hasn't quite broken through the soil yet. All the others are still "fast asleep".

Yes, mid winters day was last week so it should start warming up soon. Although, even in August the temperatures can go up and down a bit.

Kansas City (Joyce), MO(Zone 5a)

I haven't fertilized at all but if I remember right when I transplanted it, it was with soil that had slow release fert. in it.
Summer is brutal here 57.75 celcius some areas have been that way for over a month. I have my plant under the overhang of the house so it is in the shade, plenty warm.

noonamah, Australia

The important thing is to try and extend the growing period as long as possible. So if you can keep them warm to start early in the season and then also warmer when the weather starts to cool down, the plant will grow a larger tuber.

Are you sure with that temperature? The conversion is 57.75 degrees Celsius = 135.95 degrees Fahrenheit.

When you have hot weather try to keep the plant out of any dry wind and keep the humidity up. They will cope better.

Kansas City (Joyce), MO(Zone 5a)

Well darn tropicbreeze I used the covert program on the web (user beware), naww not quite 135 but darn close...rofl. How about 104, feels like 112...humditity is high. That is degrees ;)

Because of the heat we have not had hardly any breeze which makes it quite uncomfortable to say the least. I have 3 leaves so do I have 3 bulbs or do those things relate at all?

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