how many of you are using Mason Bees for pollination?

Port Orchard, WA(Zone 8a)

I 've been using the Mason Bees for a few years now. they seen to do the job just as long as I put up fresh nesting straws every year. they just keep pollination the early bloomers. I've been amazed at how well they do with the small numbers compaired to the European honey bee, which is non existent here. I have lots of other pollinators later in the Spring and Summer, in my Raspberries there are hundreds a buss there, Jim

No. San Diego Co., CA(Zone 10b)

I've been wanting to do this, Jim, but just haven't gotten to it. How do you construct your nests?

Kathleen

Vashon, WA(Zone 8b)

We got some wooden Mason bee nests from a friend last Fall and tacked them up on the house. Do we need to put 'nesting straws' in the holes? If so, where do you get them? Also, when can I expect to see bees inhabiting them? I've been a little worried that the wasps will take over, and I don't really want mor of them.

Woodinville, WA(Zone 8b)

I keep them just for the fun of having the little companions. I first learned of bee systems after happening upon a bumble bee nest in the ground and looking for someone to come get them.

Knox Cellars is a local supplier of paraphernalia: http://www.knoxcellars.com. Here's another site with information: http://www.masonbeehomes.com/. There's another plastic system that you can actually take out and clean and then reinsert in the wood house. The bigger nurseries around here carry various bee systems. I highly recommend a cover to protect the bees from birds and raccoons while they're sleeping.

I don't think the environment is right for wasps - I haven't ever had trouble with wasps by the Mason Bees. I look for the bees to come out in late March. They stay out for a month and a half and then are in. They need a good source of food if you're not sure what else is going to be in bloo - Knox Cellars recommends Pieris as its bloom time coincides with the time they're out. And it helps to have a source of moist soil for them to use for mud, as well.

I have had blocks on my shed for a few years now. Last summer I bought a new one and put it several yards away and around the corner on the table on my deck. I ended up leaving the house there in order to watch the bees come and go - they had no trouble finding the new place.

They are so gentle - I love having them around!!

Woodinville, WA(Zone 8b)

http://www.beediverse.com/

Here's the new plastic system. This gal also sells videos showing you how to open the nests and clean them.

Olympia, WA(Zone 7b)

I was very intrigued by Jim's "mason bee condo" when we where on his garden tour last year. Here are a few photos I took of them. From the photos it looks like he used fat straws (like the kind they give you when you drink bubble tea.)

Thumbnail by rachierabbit
Olympia, WA(Zone 7b)

Here is a side view.

Thumbnail by rachierabbit
Port Orchard, WA(Zone 8a)

everyone thanks for the response. I'm using the PVC cut into about 9" pieces cut at a angle on one end so rain doesn't get in, then I use a hole saw the size of the PVC 3 1/2" cut into a 2 by 6 back board. I mount 5 to a board. then I put the knoxcellars straws I buy locally. wild birds unlimited in Gig Harbor, Wa. there are many suppliers, you shouldn't have to drive far to find one. Jim

Port Orchard, WA(Zone 8a)

Rachel, we were typing that at the same time. last year I was saving some money using the thick paper that is on close hangers that come from dry cleaners. I workout at a local fitness center and when I'm done in the locker room guys leave the hangers from their shirts and stuff. they were just throwing them away. so being the apportunist that I am, I always like free, I took some home and measured the hole size and it was fine for the bees. and is insulated. I also take the wire and cut the hanger part and make pins to stick in the ground when i want something to stay put. like soaker hoses, strawberry runners etc. I still have to buy 2 boxes of 200 straws that Knoxcellars sells. I'm selling them back for $1 each. and keep just enough to populate for next year. I saw that someone is selling little boxes, with a hole in the front for the bees to excape, that if you pull the cacoons out of the straws at the end of the season. you can put them in the box and they'll emerge when the weather gets above 55%F. Jim

Vancouver, WA(Zone 8a)

Hi Jim,
Good to see you over here! How are you?
I noticed your tubes last spring as well-and thought it was a great setup. I've been wanting to do a mason bee house for a while but just got around to it this year. We just added a small wooden bee house to see how that works out. I think I'll want something bigger later on. The cleanability of the plastic cases intrigued me when I saw them at some garden show last year, but I think when we add we'll go with something more like your setup, but we don't have access to the hangers like you do.

Did you buy bees to get started or have you just encouraged the ones that were already here?


This message was edited Mar 20, 2009 10:46 AM

Woodinville, WA(Zone 8b)

You don't have to use plastic to line the nests - actually you don't have to line them. Lining them just makes it easier to keep the nests clean and avoid fungi or viruses that may be harmful. If you have the kinds of boxes with drilled holes, you can use rolled paper in there as well.

Generally, Susy, I think you have to buy the bees. But I don't know - Jim may have more info on that, as well.

Jim, I love that you're using recycled materials. These are great tips. Have you considered writing an article for DG on this?

Olympia, WA(Zone 7b)

Jim,
Does Knox Cellars buy them back or to Wild Birds Unlimited?

Moscow, ID(Zone 5a)

I have condos for my Mason Bees - no liners. They fill the holes every year, and when there is no more room, they find a myriad of places to fill. The hole diameter is the key.

Port Orchard, WA(Zone 8a)

Sue, good to hear from you also, I doing well. I started with the wood blocks and the 1st year I bought a wood block with 3 holes filled with the cacoons. I don't think they're actually cacoons but I don't know the actual name. I pulled some out of a straw. and cut open the cacoon and sure enough there was a live bee in there. I don't think he was ready to come out yet. but my curiosity had to be fulfilled. sorry little guy. Rachel, I'm selling to wildbirds unlimited. but you have to use the exact tubes with liners that he sells. it would be good to ask him before the season starts. Katye, I know about them finding other holes to fill. every year I have to check all the ground holes in my electrical outlets. I don't think they could lay more than one egg in the hole, also how do you get them to go back in the used hole in the wood blocks? that's why I went to the PVC with the straws, I couldn't get them to go back in, once it was used. I cleaned them out with small brushes, I even pressure washed them. also the population keeps multiplying by 5 or 6 everyyear. Jim

Moscow, ID(Zone 5a)

Jim - I have had the condos fro many years. They are filled up completely each year. I do nothing to the condos. I haven't had any problems yet, so I will continue in the same manner.
My reasoning is that since Mason Bees have continued to exist for eons without any help from humans, they probably know how to deal with whatever shelter they have available. This includes the corners of my wood windows - just a tiny enough place for an MB to be cozy. I'll have to check the ground holes in my electrical outlets for activity!

Kathy recommended Pieris as a great early bloomer - Ditto on that. In addition, I'd add Sarcococca & Daphne to that.

Port Orchard, WA(Zone 8a)

Katye, yes Man has a way of upsetting the balance in nature. like bringing the European Honey Bee into North America, that upset the balance here. and now we've replaced them with early pollenators like the Mason Bee. they are used for alfalfa crops also. Jim

Moscow, ID(Zone 5a)

Jim I wonder what a balance of Bee types would look like? Currently, the ratio of native Bees to Honeybees seems heavily weighted on the native Bee side. Of course I have made this cursory assessment from observing them over the years. I would add that the HoneyBee population (observed on my property) is less, but not horribly so.
I had considered contacting a Beekeeper to see if having hives here would be feasible. I never did because the Bee population has remained steady the past 3 years.
Even last summer, considering the weather was so poor, the Bees were out & about. I suppose our native plants might be less affected by the cool summers compared with non-native plants. In that case, the local Bees do just fine, and party it up during those hot & wonderful summers we occasionally experience.
I don't think it's a bad idea to provide clean nests for the mason bees, I just don't have the time.
I don't turn compost either!

This message was edited Mar 22, 2009 10:45 AM

Port Orchard, WA(Zone 8a)

Katye, I would agree with you on the native bees, just the ones on my raspberries is huge. I have heard that keeping honey bees involves a lot of hygene. because of the 2 different mites that prey on the bees at different stages. I layer my compost, or I should say Tagro, also it's much better to layer then you don't disturb the mycorrhizae fungus on the roots of plants. Jim

Moscow, ID(Zone 5a)

Jim I had heard similar points made about bringing in Honeybees. I figured it could be the next to the last resort if the general population dwindled. Then there is the matter of how attentive the BeeKeeper is. Last resort would be to start my own Beekeeping endeavour. Glad that the bees are continuing well here. I really don't need anything more to take care of!
What's the texture of your soil like after you mix in the Tagro?
The only time I disturb the mycorrhizae is when I prepare holes for planting into a clay-based area, especially on a slope.
Oh - one of the native bees was out & about today, not happy with my presence so close to the Euphorbias in bloom. Fun to finally see the first bee of the season, and hear all the songbirds that are moving back in. Still too chilly for me, though.

Vancouver, WA(Zone 8a)

I've been seeing these interesting bumble-type bees. Instead of being all black and yellow, they're black, yellow, and orange. They have a very fat stripe of orange fuzziness right across their "rump" (I'm sure the "What not to wear" person would consider that a "don't"....but it suits them...) Has anyone else seen this kind? I've been looking but haven't seen any mason bees yet. My microclimate must be a bit goofy as my euphorbias aren't blooming yet, even so much further south.

Port Orchard, WA(Zone 8a)

Katye, I'm getting the black loamy soil in just one year, where I applied it in the new garden areas that I have cleared. and the areas where I have applied it every just keeps getting better every year. there has been several articles wrttien on the subject of layering. I got my info from the American Hosta Society Journal. Jim

Moscow, ID(Zone 5a)

excellent, Jim. I really appreciate the layering method: less sweat = more time to plant & propagate.

Union, WA(Zone 8b)

Susybell, I also have those orange striped bees. I think they are fairly common around here.

Woodinville, WA(Zone 8b)

Sue - I dreamt about one of your bees last night. Does that count?

Port Orchard, WA(Zone 8a)

Sue, when you find out the name let me know, i'm curious, Jim

Vancouver, WA(Zone 8a)

Hmm, dreaming about bees-sure, why not! Maybe you're communing with bee spirits to encourage them to visit? I don't know, I'm not the therapist around here, but it seems spring like anyhow. (It was a GOOD bee dream, wasn't it??)

I'm glad you've seen my fuzzy friend too, WW. They're fun to watch. I'll be happy to post what kind of bee it is when (if?) I find out. I'll have to do some googling I expect.

Port Orchard, WA(Zone 8a)

Sue, does that one have a pointed sharp probiscus that is perfect for sucking up nectar? when I'm collecting pollen from the Hosta flowers that I use for making hybrid crosses in the summer. there's a species like a Bumble Bee that will collect nectar while I'm collecting the pollen. I never paid attention to the color, I'll have to this year. Jim

Vancouver, WA(Zone 8a)

Hi Jim, Um, not sure-I haven't gotten quite that close! I''ll look for the probiscus-you look for the color! The first one I saw this spring was struggling to fit him(her?)self into a small crocus bloom-well, lots of small crocus blooms. He might've been going for nectar.

Vancouver, WA(Zone 8a)

Jim, here's a candidate-what do you think? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Orange-belted_bumblebee

Port Orchard, WA(Zone 8a)

Sue, that looks like it, I'm not sure about the coloration, I'll be looking for it when I start making my crosses in late May. thanks for looking it up, Jim

Seattle, WA(Zone 8b)

Hi Jim, I just joined this davesgarden and my second time browsing has me learning about mason bees, what a great place. I've seen 4x8 sheets of plywood standing in fields in eastern wa. that must bee what they are ? Im raising worms now, and will wait on the bees. I notice your Hosta sense. this picture is part of a corner I've set aside for shade lovers. the birdbath is about 3 ft. high. 4yrs ago I found what I thought was a hosta in a pile of yard cleanings in a greenbelt area. the leaves looked right I brought it home planted it and well its as you can see giant ! I was looking at it this last week and it appears tiny roots are coming UP and not much of a sign of sprouts like the other Hostas I have. Im thinking its root bound. what's the plan ? do I dig it up and divide it ? I've never done this before. its in a circle about 2 1/2 ft in dia. Its pretty cool I'd hate ta kill it. I'll post this and find out how to navigate back. this is an amazing community - jamas

Thumbnail by vonrock
southern willamette , OR(Zone 7a)

Vonrock, great to have you here! Welcome! you really must check out the other forums! I mainly just watch this thread and try to learn a little about bees. However, I learned the same way about that same Hosta! It gets HUGE, especially compared to what the tag said that it would get. the tag said that it would get to be about 3' x 3'. Yeah right. Each year mine gets about 4.5' tall and 5 - 6' wide. I'm not surprised about roots coming up. For me... it's dirt slowly going away that exposes them. I'm not at all surprised by it happening to others. But, the only hosta that I have showing signs of life right now is in a pretty warm spot. The others, in full shade, have just barely started to poke above the dirt maybe 1/10 of an inch. So, I'm guessing that yours is just now thinking about coming up. It should be fine to divide now, but it's usually better if done in the fall. However, if you decide to wait, it might crowd other things. so, it's probably about a toss up.

southern willamette , OR(Zone 7a)

I forgot to mention, what a beautiful spot you have there!

Seattle, WA(Zone 8b)

Hey thanks redchico=O1 Your right about checking out other forums, I've been lost for an hour and forgot a machete and a lunch. Im learning, and need to stay on subject.

Thumbnail by vonrock
southern willamette , OR(Zone 7a)

lol.... those grasses are lovely.

Here this might help.
(keep in mind we talk about whatever on just about every thread)

PNW weather: http://davesgarden.com/community/forums/t/968477/

PNW hellebores: http://davesgarden.com/community/forums/t/968714/

PNW roundup info http://davesgarden.com/community/forums/t/933804/

PNW general garden photos http://davesgarden.com/community/forums/t/973344/




Woodinville, WA(Zone 8b)

Welcome to DG, vonrock. Your pictures are lovely - what are the grasses in that picture? I just love them together.

It's hard to kill a happy hosta in this area. Hosta Jim will know better, but I would dig it up either right now or wait until it goes dormant in the fall (but then it will be cold, brrrr). Wash away the dirt and you will be able to see where to cut it apart. There are more and less efficient ways to do it, but in the end, you have enough plant that it won't hurt anything if you lose a potential plant. I like a hori-hori knife for dividing roots and tubers that aren't woody. It's very sharp and strong. It's the only think that I cound find to work for dividing native iris.

There is a hosta forum on DG and the people who hang out there can probably steer you to a thread on just this topic.

Kathy

Union, WA(Zone 8b)

Welcome vonrock. Your garden spots are lovely.

I have a hosta that sends up those little roots. Mine were showing no growth Sunday and Monday they were all poking through. I would just mulch over those roots with compost if they bother you. Hostas may die out from the center and when they do that they should be divided. Or when you want to share or plant one somewhere else. You can use an old pruning saw or even an axe to cut the roots apart. Either single growth or a group of three or four makes a nice new plant. The one you found is striking.

Port Orchard, WA(Zone 8a)

vonrock, Katie steered you right, hostas are very resilient, with that size of a root ball. you might need a bow saw to cut up that solid root mass. it looks like it's Sieboldiana elegans. you'll know when you dig it up how it's going to go. so you have worms also. I've had a worm bin going for about 10 years and last year I had all this heavy string alga in my Koi pond so I skooped it all out and threw it on top. well the millions of worms died. so now it's dormant until I find more red wiggler worms. my garbage can is full now each week, as compared to about 1/2 before. I use the castings in my compost tea. which works wonders in the garden. Jim

Battle Ground, WA(Zone 8a)

There is a woman in my area who does wonderful lectures on Mason Bees, Sherian Wright. Her website is www.mountainbugs.com. She makes little straws for the bees to go into by wrapping parchment paper around a pencil, taping it, pulling the pencil out, and crimping one end. She then puts a group of those in a PVC pipe with one end closed. That way at the end of the season, if she wants to collect the cocoons for the following year, it's quite easy. You can also put those rolls in the pre-drilled holes in a wood block.

Woodinville, WA(Zone 8b)

Bill, that's interesting. I've been wondering why I couldn't make my own straws . . .

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