It has split at the bottom but the rest of the plant seem ok.
Need help with this one-
I'm sorry lefleur, it looks bad to me. If you love this particular cultivar, I would start looking for another. Or if your plant has green on top, take a cutting and start rooting.
Agreed... I had a plant do this... it actually lived for a year, no blooms, and it was deceptive... thought it was traumatized by the move so it wouldn't bloom... it was just slowly rotting from the inside out... too late to take a cutting by the time I realized...
Brittany
Thanks, will be cutting it up this weekend to root.
Hell guys,
I have had this happen to me before with a couple of plants, it most likely came from mechanical damage, (tools, person, etc), one lived and is still kicking today....the other not so much. Like the others said if it is important to you then I would either graft or root the top part. However I would not get rid of the bottom half until it actually kicks the bucket....you never know may live.
Davie
did it just split overnight? this looks like sunburn damage. i've had it happen to me. if you look closely, you can see that the plumie has healed itself. there is hard wood and callous there. it would be another thing to take a plumie and just rip the side out. this has been happening over time and the plant has been adjusting.
try keeping it well dusted with cinnamon.
I don't know how long it took to get like this but we had one hot summer and it could be sunburn.
yeah, that's why i don't think you have to worry about it. it has been in the process of healing. although it looks like it's open to infection it has had a chance to scab.
i would most likely send out roots at the site if it were covered with soil.
What does cinnamon do for it?
I bought one that looks worst than this years ago a cat used it for a scratching post. Its still out there going just fine blooms twice a year. I would let it rip :)
This plant has thrived and the scar has almost covered over. Miracles DO HAPPEN...
jplunket, I am impressed at how that's healed. my only concern would be that spot is a weak point and a strong wind might cause it to break there. But why think negatively? If it's made it this far, it will probably also survive gale winds, lol.
Just my opinion, I would cut the plant just below the where all the scaring is and root that. The bottom half, if long enough (4" or greater), will send out new leaves and you will have two strong plants.
Davie
Good ideas --I am going to see the plant next in late May, when I'll assess the situation again. If only 4" is needed above the ground to have new branching start, and it's not flowering, I'll chop it there and replant the top in one or more pieces.
Wish me luck, and thanks again for the advice.
i'd cut along the solid line first. this is the cut that you make for the cutting that you will root. all of that swollen cambium will give you more rooting surface as dutchlady said. only cut along the dashed line once new branches have emerged and are growing nicely. that is to reduce die back. however, there is nothing that says you can just cut along the dashed line from the beginning. if that is the case, you might just make the dashed line the only cut that you make and root the top part.
hope i didn't confuse you. LOL
Got this off an orchid site. They were talking about black rot on leaves. It would work for any plant I would think.
Chemical Treatment Once the infected plant parts have been removed, a fungicide should be applied to protect the remaining healthy tissue. Cinnamon is an excellent fungicide, and ground cinnamon may be applied straight from the spice jar directly to the exposed area where infected portions of the plant have been excised. First Rays Orchids also recommends mixing cinnamon with either casein-based glue (such as Elmer's) or cooking oil to form a thick paste. This paste is fairly waterproof and can be used to cover the wound.
i wound is already healed. you don't want to cover it with anything.