These pods all aborted early. Has anyone managed to get seeds this unripe to germinate? On the plus side, the pods aborting allowed me to cut her back as I no longer had to worry about the pods falling off. More Goldenes Kornett cuttings from the flowering region to root and hopefully get some more timely seed pods for next year.
Eric, under what cercumstance that caused the pods to abort prematurely? Sorry that hapenned. Those look so close to be mature. If I were you, I'd pot up some and see if some of them will make it.
eric, i have had pods with seeds this unripe.
last year, i did not cut the unripe pods open, rather, i stuck them all in a brown paper bag and tossed them on top of my fridge in the kitchen until march. at that time, i opened the pods and planted all the seeds regardless of their ripeness/looks. i had about 20% germination.
they'll all most likely be compost......
GreenThumbsTN,
These are F1 aurea crosses so 20% is acceptable if I realize that I don't really care what these look like as the back crosses and sibling crosses will be more important. Thanks for your advice. I still have a very few seed pods hanging on that are a bit older and these will of course be where I am actually hoping to have some luck of choosing something more worthwhile. Still, I so wanted to have enough to share with others this go round. This of course means I will be making this cross over again next year though just to be sure I've gotten all that I can get out of this one. 2 cycles of F1 going on at different times and one will be on to F2 while the other F1 is just starting... ahh, such is life.
I have had germination of white immature seeds, they were a decent size but just had not turned color. I was told to plant them before they dried out once they were out of the seedpod.
I Have Eric But Dont wait Till Spring Plant While Fresh Ive Had About 40 percent germination. . Paul H
Yes, plant them now and see what comes up.
I have had seeds germinate I did not expect would do so.
I hope some will grow for you.
Okay guys, I've planted my Goldenes Kornett seeds and a few trays of my arborea group seeds today to compare germination rates/times. Of course a few of my arborea group seeds were germinating in the pod so you know where my money is at. I'm hoping for some nice reds, oranges, purples, etc. Next year will see more promise in the aurea group I am sure. Heck, I need the chance to produce some lovely multi-hybrids in the arborea group anyway. We can't have everything. I still have a few x Wildfire pods to pick.
Wish I would have seen this ealier, but have busy.
Maybe if you get another aborted pod this might help you some. I forget who it was that wrote this article. I had foudnit some where on the web when I was looking for technques for unrelated species.
here is the part of that article that I stil have left,
". It is especially useful for attempts at creating bi-generic hybrids, you know, crossing 2 unrelated things such as a ligustrum and a peace lily, Ivy & Aralia (X Fatshedera) or African Marigolds with Martha Stewart (it's been done; you get a white rap musician).
If hybrid seeds tend to be aborted by the mother plant, as often happens, especially when bi-generic hybridization is attempted. The seed pods can be opened 'manually' and the fresh green seeds then sown. Many hybrid seeds are dumped by the mother plants; while the pollen and the egg got together and started a beautiful new life, somewhere along the way momma realizes that this baby is a bad idea, and the pod where baby is opens prematurely, da-boomp."
in the continuation this is the part I really was interested in:
"The seeds should have the nubblet where the seed attached to the tissue of the mother plant pressed into the soil. The top of the seed should be left above the soil surface. The seed can then go on obtaining nutrients and water from the soil, while photosynthesizing through the green part which is exposed. Mist/fog is the only practical way to water such experiments; droplets of water bury or move the seeds around.
This method is best utilized for larger seeds, say the size of a small pea and up. I suppose tiny seeds would/could be done this way but I've never tried, because I value my eyesight for more than just the moment.
At any rate, any seeds can be grown this way. I have also found this method useful for starting the native Coral Bean (Erythrina) from seed; Just as the seed pods start to turn from green to yellow, indicating they will bust open in another 6 weeks or so--I remove the green seeds and plant them, green. Do not allow them to dry out or you'll get the typical germination over a period of 40 years thing going on. Planting seeds while freshly removed from their pods and still green results in uniform germination, and this is handy indeed if you are actually trying to get a uniform crop of whatever started. This can be applied to many fruits and vegies and other ornerymentals as well. For seeds such as squash, remove the seed from the 'shell'/casing. Be careful not to damage the seed during this process. Sometimes a pair of gloves with the "secure grip" rubberized drizzled finger coatings stuff on them works well, especially for slippery seeds, or when you're doing a whole mess of seeds where your fangers would normally get slickery.
Hopefully I remembered to answer your questions in here somewhere, this sat around in the drafts folder for awhhile.
dave "
Another method if you haven't tried it to consider. Good luck with the germination.
Many thanks. I'm trying a warm soak of 50% water 50% soil right now with these seeds and it has gotten quite gelatinous as the seeds compose a good portion of the mix. I'll get pictures soon if the whole mess doesn't turn into gelatin.
