This is from a seed I started from Brenda last Jan. When I brought it down to the basement I noticed it had buds....and this is the flower!!!! It has a wonderful scent.
Adeline x Ma Belle Amie
Well that is a wonderful bloom you have there I must say!!
Thanks James. It is amazing how fast they do grow and flower. The plant is only 3 ft
tall. Hope it stays that short.
Adeline (pink double) = Pink Lady (Pink) x Charleston (white double)
Ma Belle Amie (dark pink) = Mountain Magic (rich dark pink) x Esmeraldas (pink candida)
Mountain Magic (rich dark pink) = Butterfly (pink) x Ecuador Pink (light pink)
Butterfly (pink) = Rothkirch (pink) x Ocre (yellow)
Butterfly has produced babies ranging in color from pink to yellow depending on what she is crossed with.
Ex: Golden Lady x Butterfly produced yellow flower American Bambino.
Gypsy Queen x Butterfly produced Claudea a nice orange/yellow flower as well as Cleopatra another nice yellow.
Amber Rose (pink, yellow, peach) x Butterfly produced Chrissy another yellow flower.
Charles Grimaldi (yellow) x Butterfly (pink) has also produced Halloween... an astounding beautiful orange yellow type flower.
Heloise (one of the best yellow versicolor) = Dr D (pale yellow and pink genes) x Pink Beauty
Why do I show so much information? I show it to you so that you can see the hard work that goes into creating these hybrids. That and to explain that pink x yellow etc. can produce yellows, oranges, etc. It is my belief, having made several crosses in large numbers with colors that do not mix easily that Brugmansia genetics is far from easily understood. The crosses that I see that are pink x orange, pink x yellow, etc. are always first and foremost on my mind for hybridizing as they have produced in my mind very subtle color variations/ mixtures to very deep and complex mixtures of color. Sure, you can go the easy route and cross yellow to yellow, but if I were crossing yellow to yellow I'd prefer to use a yellow that had a mixed color parentage or one that I knew throws out a different color from time to time. Even Butterfly is a good one to use for a yellow double as she will throw out yellows. Still, if you want to go the easier route, find one that is already yellow or orange but that has a mixed color parentage to cross to your yellows and oranges. Yeah, I know I kind of hi-jacked this thread and went off on a tangent, but I like to share the little bit I see with you gals and guys here.
Hope this helps,
Sincerely,
Eric
I adore this flower by the way. I'd like to think some yellow genes were hidden in this one. Crossing to something like Butterfly, Claudea, etc. may help to determine that.
Well I love it anyway I am happy that it is a double...........LOL
James
Thanks Eric no problem with the hi-jacked thread. Your information is always welcome.
It was seed I purchased last year. Brenda did all the complicated thinking for it.
I have one more plant from the same cross that I just brought in yesterday. It was sitting next to the house waiting for room in the compost pile. But when I saw it had a bud on it, I brought it in. Our weather has gone down to 30 degrees and I was suprised it wasn't froze.
Any info on short (like under 5') brugs would be appreciated.
I love the shape of the bloom. Is the color as dark as it appears? The fact that it produced a "Y" while still that short is a plus.
Oh boy that is very encouraging to see your plant ...I have the same cross (tiny plants) growing out now ...I am thrilled for you and your lovely bloom.
Eric thanks again ...Miss Caylie crosses feature large in many of my crosses ( seedlings) ...you have made my day with all of this wonderful information and I am sure everyone is most grateful.
They're both beautiful!!! Congratulations on the blooms.
Jan (yep, I'm still "here"---just quiet :)
Beautiful!
This message was edited Jan 20, 2009 6:47 PM
Beautiful! It's always special when something you grew out produces something beautiful.
Oh, I am so excited for you! I have some seedlings from Brendas' seeds as well, but they are only like three inches tall.. Miss B Havin X Rubiline I also have several of the plants that Eric posted earlier.. can't wait to "marry them" outside this spring .. I have enough natural pollinaters I should be able to get some nice crosses if I keep them far enough away, right? yours are lucky to be inside near windows.. mine are in the basement under artificial light.. bleah..
Oh, I love that flouncy skirt! And white with all those pink and possibly yellow genes in the background. I hope you give her a chance.
Well maybe i may have to get some this year I have alot of plants.
I've never used the above product but just the fact that it "...kills on contact..." interests me. Please let us know if this does work for you.
Jan
The active ingredient is pyrethrins, and I was told that it won't kill broadmites.
So even tho its listed on the label, it won't work.
Those are some beautiful brugs there. Did you give me some of that seed? The seeds that I have from last year that you gave me will that still be good for this year?
Sandy, go ahead and try them.
I have tried that spectrum and it doesn't work for me on broad mites or fungus gnats either one..
I think I'll return it.
That's false advertising plus I bet that it cost you a bundle! Are you currently 'fighting' pests on your overwintering plants/brugs? I've had just a few fungus gnats (SHHHH!!!...knockin' on wood...crossing my fingers...) on my plants but I use H202 everytime I water plus I've sprinkled the top of the dirt in my pots with cinnamon.
That is interesting. I have never heard of using cinnamon. I have some fungus gnats I need to control.
Cinnamon is cheap, easy to find, smells good and you don't have to worry about harsh chemicals. It's a natural fungicide, I even 'dust' my bulbs with it when I dig them up (especially when I accidentally cut my huge EE bulb with the shovel).
Jan
I live on a cattle ranch. The first time we hired someone to spray the pastures for weeds, it rained the next day. No dead weeds, no refund. Worse yet, if it was windy on the date agreed upon, the guy still sprayed. I could imagine what would happen to our mature live oaks. Any way to shorten this story, I wound up getting an Applicator's License so we could do our own spraying. To keep it, I must accrue a certain number of CEUs including some on Integrated Pest Management ("Integrated Pest Management (IPM) is an effective and environmentally sensitive approach to pest management that relies on a combination of common-sense practices.") The word combination is what sticks in my mind. Getting rid of fungus gnats requires a combination of approaches.
The presence of fungus gnats means the soil is too damp and/or there is a lot of debris on the soil surface. From what I have read, these will help control fungus gnats. Control doesn't mean getting rid of them completely so as long as the main problems, detritus present and soil that remains too wet, remain, they will return.
1) Get rid of all dead materials lying on the surface of the soil.
2) Let the soil get drier before watering again. In winter thant's OK because Brugs don't take up too much water. If the soil stays wet for too long, there is a good chance of kiling the roots with root rot.
3) Pyrethrins will provide temporary control of adult gnats, but are not a permanent solution.
4) The larvae are the ones that do the most damage. To determine how big a problem, this is what UC Davis suggests: "Potato Cubes or Slices Fungus gnat larvae migrate to feed on the underside of potato pieces placed inhttp://www.ext.vt.edu/departments/entomology/factsheets/fungusgn.html media. To determine whether container media are infested, use 1-inch cubes or slices of peeled raw potato imbedded about 3/8-inch deep into media. Pick up and examine the underside of each potato and the soil immediately beneath it about once or twice a week. Compare numbers of larvae before and after any treatment to determine whether larvae are being controlled."
5) If you can find them, beneficial nematodes or Bti, a variety of BT.
6) If the infestation is very bad, consider replacing the soil completely. The 4th link I included suggests moving from a peat based potting mix to one without.
7) Cinnamon sprinkled on the soil surface will help control adults.
The 4th link I included suggests moving from a peat based potting mix to one without.
Helpful links:
http://nathist.sdstate.edu/orchids/Pests/fungus_gnats.htm
http://www.ext.vt.edu/departments/entomology/factsheets/fungusgn.html
http://www.mda.state.mn.us/plants/insects/plantscape/fungusgnats.htm
http://www.pioneerthinking.com/tv-seedlings.html
Thanks so much for the info. I did not mean to hijack this thread.
I am just worried about newly planted seeds with brand new potting mix.
Where do these dang things come from??
I microwaved the soil I used today for seed planting.
I've heard the smell of sterilizing the soil by either microwave or oven can be pretty bad. How long does it take for the odor to dissipate? I'm sorry I've added to the hijack.
My potting soil has been sitting in my car for the last few days. It was pretty much frozen, maybe that will work on those bugs.
Bettydee, good for you...gettiing your Applicator's license. Your infor is always welcome.
GordonHawk said he uses mosquito dunks for fungus gnats, maybe he'll tell us more.
I have microwaved and froze.. somehow they still come back.. bleah.. the yellow sticky plates works best so far.. ( for me)
This message was edited Jan 23, 2009 12:10 PM
Wow.. I thought it looked like a Mountain Magic Double! Amazing bloom there! Hopefully it will be a prolific as MM is! Congrats!
