The only Aroid that is having a tough time in my garden is the Alo x protora. It is supposed to be easy to grow. My Alo macro growing next to it at the East facing wall is doing very well. The pup that was already emerging when I planted it has melted away. The main plant is slowly yellowing from oldest to newest leaves. It is not the normal process of older leaves dying. I keep the plant a bit moist but not soggy. I fed it some high nitrogen mainly organic. Is this a tough one to grow for others? Maybe too much fert too soon after planting?
Thanks, Dave
Alocasia x portora difficulties
Alocasia x portora has been very durable for me, even to the point where I was able to retrieve corms that were many years old from where I planted specimens before hurricane Andrew, and were able to grow new plants from them.
The symptoms you describe are like what they do when they don't have either enough water or enough nutrition.
I suggest digging the plant up and examining the roots. Also take note of the surrounding soil. Organic nitrogen is good but usually is not enough for the rapid growth and size that this plant is capable of. Unless your soil is very rich, the plant will slow down or stop growing.
I plant mine in a mix of 3 parts composted pine bark, 2 parts perlite and 1 part Pro-Mix (peat plus biofungicide), and add nutricote fertilizer (the professional version of Dynamite) so as to allow the plant to be fed for several months. I have some large specimens that I water deeply every day, sometimes twice per day. Even with the fertilizer charge, the plant uses it up quicker than the label would indicate.
Of course, if you overferted at planting time, you might have burned the roots off. This will be evident when you dig the plant up to investigate.
Hope this helps,
LariAnn
Thanks for the advice. I will try adding more water first while it's still fairly warm out. Here is the yellow on the last of the remaining three leaves. I know it's too close to the other Alocasia. I will thin that other out later.
Also, is there variation on the leaf shape. The other picts l have seen look like the leaves are less portei looking then this one.
Having grown off all of the seedlings of the Alocasia x portora cross, I can state categorically that none of them came out looking portei-like. In fact, I've been wanting to do the F2 in order to obtain a more portei-like look on a hardier plant than A. portei. So far, all the portora seedlings have proved to be sterile or nearly so.
Therefore, if your leaves are as shown, you have the tissue cultured version of A. portei, not A. x portora. I have three types of A. portei and they vary in amount of pinnation as well as in overall look of the leaves. One is shiny, one is matte, and one is in between. Yours is the matte type and is the type with the shallowest pinnations in the leaves.
Another think to check for is mites; look underneath the leaves and see if there are tiny spots moving around and some fine webbing. If so, you've got mites. They will cause premature leaf yellowing as well.
LariAnn
So I have portei? then it was mislabeled. What can I expect with the portei? What is important to know to keep it healthy? What does tissue cultured version mean?
Thanks, Dave
Dave,
Seeing the entire plant confirms my ID. You have the A. portei type that is the one currently in tissue culture. That's what I mean by the "tissue cultured version". This is to distinguish it from other types that have not been tissue cultured, including the one that was sent to me direct from the wilds of Borneo. IMHO, the one that was chosen for TC was not the most desirable or attractive of the types.
A. portei is much more sensitive to cold than A. x portora, and it is also more susceptible to mite infestations and to root rot. In California, you might not have as much problem with root rot but I think your winters will be too cool for it. Also, A. portei does not like full sun. 40 to 60 percent shade is best, and especially shade in the midday hours. They need a fertilization regime similar to the other large Alocasias. They are capable of attaining trunk diameters of around six inches and heights of 6 feet and up under ideal conditions.
Here's my page on A. portei:
http://www.aroidiaresearch.org/portei.htm
LariAnn
Lariann is this the same as your form? I use to have this years ago had nice white veins and deeply cut leaves. At one time I had 3 to 4 forms or portei. I will check my photos for more.
Joe Wright with his monster Alo portei. He is a excellent grower and has been able to put size on some harder to grow species.
Not sure where this was taken. I remember the plant had narrow leaves and a droopy look to it.
Brian, what is growing closer to the ground behind the subject of your photo with the white veins? That is very pretty.
Thanks
Sandra
That is philodendron gloriosum. It is a crawling philo and does not climb. I have seen some impressive displays of it in large shallow pots. It is a geat grower for me and I have several forms.
It is very pretty, thanks
Sandra