All blossoms falling off Tomatos????

I posted this on the Tomato Forum as well. So far--no response. Maybe you all "wise ones" could offer a few suggestions??? Jill????
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I grew a bunch of heirloom tomatoes (Sun Golds--Cherokee Purple--and Mortgage Lifter) from seed and shared some seedlings with my manager at the store I work at.
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Mine are doing spectacularly and I have already picked several of the larger tomatoes and piles of the Sun Golds.
My bosse's, on the other hand, grew into healthy plants as well, but on ALL of them, as they bloomed--all the blooms fell off. He is quite upset, as he loves tomatoes and was looking ahead to eating fresh ones.

I do not have any more detailed information on his growing conditions. I know he waters them adequately. Do any of you know of any disease that might cause this? Soil???? Weather?? WHAT? Any information would be appreciated.

One thing I do know--he lives somewhat close to water. Not right at it--but in the vicinity. No ocean--just "fingers" of the Chesapeake bay.
I told him you wonderful people on DG would come up with some kind of suggestions...

Here's the tomatoes I picked yesterday. They need a couple days on the counter top to get really ripe yet. They are Mortgage Lifter and a couple Cherokee Purples.

Thanks, Gita

Gita, how much fertilizer is he using? I found this article, might help.
http://www.kdcomm.net/~tomato/Tomato/blossom.htm

Thanks!
I forwarded the link to him. My initial guess would be that he is using the wrong type, or too much fertilizer. Maybe==like MG?

Gita

It could be the heat. Tomatoes, except for varieties that were bred to do well in high temperatures in the south, will only set fruit within a range of temperatures.

Here's some info on it:

Temperature and Humidity
Daytime temperatures above 90°F and night temperatures above 70°F will reduce the number of tomato flowers and fruit set. There is considerable evidence that night temperature is the critical factor in setting tomato fruit, the optimal range being 59-68°F. With night temperatures much below or above this critical range, fruiting of the tomato plant is reduced or absent. Low temperatures reduce the production and viability of pollen. High temperature, especially if accompanied by low humidity and moisture, hinders tomato fruit set through failure in pollination and/or fertilization.

Hrt,

I will tell you the same as I have told all the others that have suggested heat and humidity and high night temps as the reason--------
Him and I live in the same area!!!!! Maybe 15 miles apart! So--

They are tomatoes I gave him.
Same seed--same plants
Mine are doing great and producing like mad!

The only difference may be the soil and the way he is fertilizing them. Like--maybe????? with MG all the time??? High in N?

Being a manager at HD does not give a person much free time to garden--so he may be overcompensating for lack of dwith too much fertilizing witht he wrong stuff.
I planted my tomatoes with compost and Chesapeake Blue mixed in--as well as pulverized egg shells and a bit of Dynamite--9 month--fertilizer. Have not done any more since then to speak of. My Tomatoes are THRIVING and falling over each other--as they had already outgrown their tomato cages before I left on my trip (6/29).
...it is a "jungle" out there.......:o)

Gita

Here's one end of the bed. These are Sun Golds....

Here's the other end--also a Sun Gold

Here's today's harvest.......

Gita, there can be quite a difference in temperature and humidity in 15 miles or even far less, certainly enough to make a difference for tomatoes.

I have had two tomato problems. One the deer have been eating new growth where the blossom of the future form. Two when they tried to rebloom or should have been reblooming we were having multiple close to hundred degree days. Over eightyfive consistantly seems to be about the dividing line. The weather has moderated this week so new bloom may have a chance to form. I have four plants that should have been producing easily by now.

On the other hand Patio and Tumbler must be safe to a hundred degrees. Tumbler is pouting but still producing. Patio does not even know there was high patio temperatures on more days and longer days than out in the garden. Patio is a nice looking plant but the flavor is about up to big box matters. I doubt that I will grow Patio again. Tumbler has decent flavor but heavy skin. Both of these are about to be changed. I don't eat looks or novelty growth items if they are not the only available or also real good.

Thanks, Doc,

So far--I am not impressed with the taste of the Mortgage Lifter. Just blaaahh!

I love the Cherokee Purple. it is a solid, dark-meat tomato with few seeds. This year's were grown from seed I took from one of last year's tomatoes. Will do it again.

If you would want some--I can send you some. However, I do not do the fermenting thing......I just wash them real good in a sieve and then spread them out to dry.

See how many seed-pods I picked off my Wintersweet Bush (Chimonanthus praecox)? Holy cow!!! I could open a shop! Might post them on the marketplace.....cheap!

Gita

One Early Girl is starting to get some color. This is about the time every one in this area starts seeing their tomatoes ripen. Then we get the tomato over load. Working in a dental office we start seeing patients with mouth sores due to eating lots of high acid tomatoes. That is usually the first question Doctor asks " Have you been eating tomatoes?" Doc, does your son see this in his office too?

Do not know about the real Doc Gipe, dentist, in Portland, but the early season tomato acid problems are experienced by many many of all ages. What is amazing to me is the fact many say a sweet tasing tomato will not affect them while an acid tasting one will. Seems I read somewhere that the acid level is about the same in both with the sugar simply being higher in those that taste sweeter.

Our family has always grown and eaten tomatoes. We make sauces and freeze several ways. No one in our immediate family ever had a problem with eating to many in any form.