Received a cutting

Chesapeake, VA(Zone 7b)

Hi. I have a cutting that is a center cutting. (Both top and bottom has been cut). Any special requirements for this type? Every cutting pic I see is usually a top cutting. I really would like to see this grow. Thanks for you help.
Dawn

Central, AL(Zone 7b)

From my experience, this type of cutting will root easily like others tip cuttings. However, it will take longer to produce new foliages and probably new branches from the top cut juncture.

Pot it up in a quart pot with quick-drainage potting medium. Water it in well, and don't water again until the soil is dried out. I would take the cuttings outdoor now when temp. is above 70F. degrees. And move it back inside when the temp. is lower than 50F.

Best of lucks.

Bessemer, AL(Zone 8b)

morning kim, is it lright to set ours out now and leave them out

Chesapeake, VA(Zone 7b)

Thanks lily_love!

Central, AL(Zone 7b)

Kathy, plumerias are proven to stay dormant when temp. drops below 70F. If the root system isn't established yet on your cuttings, I would not take them outdoor yet. Warmth is very important to stimulate new growths in MHO.

You're welcome pd.

Bessemer, AL(Zone 8b)

thanks kim. i will set just the 2 rooted ones out then

And since I am one of the people this happened to: make sure you don't plant it upside down LOL.
The leaf scars have to be 'smileys'.....
Good luck!

Ventura, United States(Zone 10b)

Kim, that isn't quite true about dormancy. My plumerias stay outside all winter and don't go dormant until the temperatures start dropping below 40 at night. Growth will start to slow in the 40's, and the plumerias will start to lose their leaves at temps below 40. I've read many articles about dormancy, and I've never seen what you say is "proven." Dormancy has little to do with what the daytime temps are. I have many plumerias that don't go dormant some winters when the nights stay in the 40's, even if the daytime temperatures are consistently in the 60's.

Dawn, I have to disagree with Kim about rooting your cutting and letting the soil go dry. The soil medium should be warm and moist at all times and not allowed to go completely dry. Your new roots will dry up quickly if they are on a hot surface without moisture, and they should be placed on a hot surface to root.

I have rooted many centercuts, and they do take a little longer to show that they are rooting because they have to sprout branches from the nodes, but you will see them swell and produce leaves almost as quickly as a single tip branch. Here is a link to my article if you are interested: http://davesgarden.com/guides/articles/view/45/ I would plant your cutting in a one-gallon container of well-draining soil and place on the warmest spot in the yard if your last frost date has passed and your nights are above 50.

While center cuts may appear ugly at first, they eventually grow in such a way that the center cut is hidden and healed over and not as noticeable. If you don't like the look of it, you can eventually take a tip cutting from it and make a new tree.

Thumbnail by Clare_CA
Central, AL(Zone 7b)

Clare, I do not wish to disagree or blindly agree on any opinion given on the internet. You've your own opinion. "proven" (as I've written) the term applied to my own observation with my very own growing plumerias condition in my zone. Your zone is an entire different story. Remember your temp. range and ours varies greatly. Have you visited zone 7b? I have been in various zones, and have lived in the tropic.
Respectfully yours,
Kim

p.s. I'm outta here.

Ventura, United States(Zone 10b)

Hi Kim. I definitely agree that different zones have different needs and growing conditions. Dormancy is actually triggered by several things including the witholding of water and nutrients, reduced light (or rather extended darkness), and temperature. Everyone should feel free to give their opinions and viewpoints and agree or disagree as this promotes learning for everyone and makes discussions more interesting;-) JMHO.

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