Has anyone in the Dallas area had success with perennial lupines? On a lark, I bought a package of seeds from Home Depot, and they're sprouting nicely under fluorescents next to the other flowers I'm getting ready for spring, but I don't know how well they'll do outside, in this horrible clay soil, with Dallas heat and sun.
I was thinking of transplanting half of them, and keeping the rest in a deep pot indoors, but I suspect I can't get enough light indoors to make it worthwhile.
Lupines in 8a
not here I have tried several times
They need acidic soil! If they are going into a bed you'll have to remove any native soil as it is probably alkaline, and replace with acidic soil. Even then, I don't know how they will fare with our heat.
Think they'll survive to bloom indoors in a pot?
As long as the light is adequate, I don't see why not.
Aargh! I woke up this morning to find my biggest lupine seedling keeled over. It was three inches tall yesterday, straight, with a nice thick stem and it's first set of true leaves nicely grown. Today it's on its side, limp.
Sounds like damping off, even though the soil was on the dryish side.
The other four seedlings in the same pot are just above the soil (they sprouted a couple of days after the first one, so are a bit behind in development), but don't show any signs yet of having problems.
I watered immediately with an H202 mixture, but it's probably too late for the first seedling.
I tried germinating these last year for a fellow DGer. I went through two packs and almost all of them keeled over just as you described. I think they are very susceptible to the soil being too damp. Then again it could have also been my poor seed starting skills.
If the problem turns out just to be the need to acidify the soil--Organic soil sulfur or holly-tone can be incorporated into your existing soil. I grow a lot of Louisiana Iris out here on the alkaline "Katy Prairie" (or what used to be the Katy Prairie anyway--that's another discussion) and those two products work great and are both organic. A lot of the bulbs I grow need acidic conditions also--I realize this is not a Lupine answer but thought I'd throw it in there for soil conditions. I grew up in Montana and Colorado so I love Lupines too and can really understand your longing to grow them.
Debbie
=)
I'll see what I can find today to acidify the soil while I'm out running errands. The other seedlings are still strong. I sprinkled some cinnamon yesterday, just in case it was one of the usual fungal suspects.
Continuing problem with my lupines: They're damping off, one by one.
Seedlings get 2-4 inches tall, then suddenly flop over, shrivel, and die. The roots aren't discolored. I've applied H2O2, and dusted with cinnamon. The soil is kept on the dry side, and I've switched to bottom watering.
As each new seeding comes up, it appears strong and healthy, with nice thick stems and dark green cotyledons. Occasionally, the seedling dies before the first true leaves appear, but usually it's after.
Is this really damping off, or is the soil pH still wrong?
This message was edited Feb 11, 2008 8:11 AM
I had lupines in New England. They spread like heck by reseeding themselves. I collected the seeds and threw them on the ground in very early spring while it was still cold outside. I heard they need the cold to germinate. They are not keen on being transplanted though. Not sure if this will be of help to you.
In order to acidify the soil, I used apple cider vinegar and water. Alas, the soil was already damp, and the additional liquid was too much. The remaining seedlings have either damped off or are wilting.
I think I'm going to dump this pot and start over with new seeds.
This message was edited Feb 13, 2008 11:53 AM
My lupines are about three weeks old and they look healthy but they do not support themselves. About a week ago I "staked" them and they are putting on lots of new leaves and seem healthy. Not sure about these lupines....
Annie
I started new ones last night. New soil, sterile pot, starting out acidic and with anti-fungal spray. Light sprinkling of sand on top to keep the surface dry.