Planting fruit tree graft facing South??

Hi, I'm new to this site and new to fruit trees. I bought 5 trees locally (2 apple, 2 pear, 1 peach) and was told to plant the apple trees with the graft facing South. I planted the 2 bareroot trees (peach & pear) first without worrying about the graft since they weren't apple. While admiring my work my husband asked, "Did you plant the grafts to the South?" I reminded him she said apple trees, but now I'm wondering why apples and not other trees and for that matter why South at all. All I could find searching the internet was an article that said when they graft to the rootstock they do it on the South side of the rootstock but nothing further about planting later. If I need to turn the trees I can still do it since they were just planted. Anyone with some info?

Thanks

Step back and admire your planting. Not to worry. I can just imagine the hired help these days even making the grafts on the south side.

Some grafts aren't even made in the field. They are made on the work bench using bare root understock.

I've never heard of that advice and I have 300 trees facing whatever way I put them in that are doing great.

If anything I would think it is better to put the graft facing north, the tree can grow more on the south side and its already bent a bit that way if the graft is south. Having the graft north would help balance things out. Anyway there are about 5000 more important things to worry about when growing fruit; forget about this one.

Scott

Thanks to you both. I'm glad I don't have to worry, I already had to move a shrub and small tree to plant the fruit trees and wasn't looking forward to redoing anything. 5000!!! I can tell I will be visiting this forum often. Thanks again.

Deb

That's just strange. Sounds like a rose grower. LOL. Those rose people are nuts. I have grafted fruit trees and didn't care which way the were facing. All are doing fine.

I place stuff like this in the category of "books and articles have to be written file". If that file does not seem right I have a catch all "salesman's wisdom file".

You need to on the full moon at midnight and circle the tree 5 times counterclockwise. LOL.

Great responses...........at least we had a bit of fun with this. Man can not live on serious pie alone....or something like that. ]:o)

Of course, more important would be at what height the graft union was set......................!

I set the graft union just above ground so the original dirt line on the trunk was maintained. The freeze warning we have for tonight had me a little worried, but from what I have read it should be O.K., it's supposed to be high 20's to low 30's.

Hmmm, full moon, midnight, walking in circles...my husband was already laughing when I told him I was getting advice from the fruit & nut forum.

Deb

Apple, pear and peach all are fine with cold weather. I have peach and apple trees and it was actually hard for me to get trees that were low chill hours.

Deb.........thank you for alerting me as to why I like this forum. I work hard to assure my neighbors that I am in fact nuts. I'll let the other category alone.

I should have added that I will fit right in. Thank you for leaving the other category alone, I realized after re-reading my post that part of my comment could have been taken the wrong way. It wasn't intended that way.

Any thoughts on pruning newly planted trees? Now or Fall? Spray cuts or leave alone?

Deb

You are in Oregon. Spring is about to be sprung and may have a little bit already. I have two absolute rules for pruning listed in the order of importance.

1. Immediately after planting.

2. When the axe is sharp.

Deb, I live way north of you next to Canadian border, and all my life. My husband and I had 80 acres of apple orchard for about 50 years. also peaches , apricots, and cherries We planted lots of trees in those years. My experience has been most importantly plant as soon as possible, prune any broken or dead branches off at planting. Do not spray or paint cuts. We used to amend the soil when planting a tree, but now the advice is just dig a large wide hole, not deep, and back fill with the soil removed when digging. Good Luck.

Donna

I agree with Donna...........and one more important thing when working on established trees. Trim them with great care. Open them up so sunlight can come through the tops and the sides. Said another way open them up enough so a drunk robin can fly through in all directions safely. To test your pruning pour half a beer in a tray for the robins. Take the other five and the half to a nice shady spot and observe. I can't remember which great garden book this came from. I find it great advise.

LOL. The robin test. People will think I'm nuts if I say that.