I've been nuturing several Chinese Wisterias for Bonsai training. Anyone is doing the same thing? Care to exchange ideas?
I'll share one that I've successfully brought to bloom (though this isn't a bonsai specimen - but an example of how beautiful the blooms would be like).
Here is another example of the Wisteria.
It's known that Wisteria in general doesn't bloom until it's 5-7+ years of age. However, we can find these at Lowes or HD in the spring while they're in full blooms in small pot 3.7 gallons. My local nursery fortunately do carry them in bigger size, thus I've a few collection in training-containers.
Here is a pic. was just taken today of the "sprurs" or an inflorescent that will form the flower stalk next spring. Interestingly, this Wisteria does form inflos. on both old woods, as well as on new growths.
Once we learn of Wisteria's culture. And what makes them bloom. I believe they would be great plant to train as a novice of the art. Anyone interested? Jump on board. Let's chat.
This message was edited Dec 10, 2007 2:46 PM
These are 2 among the 3 Wisterias I'm training into future bonsais. Here they were back in early March.
There soon afterward the inflorescents begun to put on a growth spurt.
The flowers opened from the base and gradually toward the tip of the inflo. Then voila! The pendant inflo. is full of the those attractive light blue pea-shape flowers.
This is a better pics. of the mentioned inflo. The small flowers first appear dark blue/purple, but once they're fully in bloom the color is of an attractive sky-blue shade.
editted to correct typo.
This message was edited Jan 30, 2008 4:22 PM
So how does one train the Wisteria to bloom? I'll share my experience with everyone on how I did it.
Here is the link.
http://davesgarden.com/community/forums/t/709664/
Fun thing with Wisteria, they're hardy one doesn't have to pamper them much as far as protecting them from cold during the winter. Some light mulch is recommended to protect the pots from thawing/freezing weather. That's is. They need to experience drought to bloom profusely, and flexible to be wired and trained. Slanted, semicascade? Weeping? Let's try.
Ok, what would we do while we wait for the Wisterias to bloom? After the initial potting and prelimary wiring? Tend to yet another Bonsai in training.
Here is Natal plum; 'Carrisa Boxwood Beauty' for training into Bonsai.
The plant is also tolerant of drought, flexible for wiring, training, attractive shiney leathery green leaves that turn bronz to bright orange to red during winter month (needs overwinter indoor). But above all those qualities mentioned, this one yields attractive plumeria's like white fragrant flowers during the summer months and produces beautiful fruits all season.
This message was edited Dec 10, 2007 7:55 PM
The different stages of the Natal plums...
Here they're green, one has begun to ripen...
Then the fruit turns this beautiful red.
Another...
And here are some green, and some ripened. These fruits are continually being produced from early summer until present. (Currently indoor).
I have two Wisterias. Not sure what variety. Looks like yours. They are both young. One less than a year and the other might be two years. I can not decide if I should leave it in a 5 gal pot and let it grow thicker branches or start to reduce the container. I have always wanted to train Wisterias but do not know of anyone that knows how to tame the trendals.
I also love the plums you have. I have never seen this plant and wonder how hard it is to acquire on in this area. Will it produce fruit as a bonsai? Even if it doesn't I bet the flowers will still smell great.
Did you raise yours from seedlings, cuttings? Wisterias are excellent to be manipulated and trained to the desired shape for they're flexible - to certain degree. The tendrils? Do you mean the long branches, and shoots? I'll prune those to the form that you like best. Winter is a good time to prune them. I'd begin to train, prune the root system, too. Doing so does speed up the flowering mechanism.
I discovered my Natal plum from a local nursery last winter. If you check yours locally and if they don't have them, maybe they can order you some. Often time, that is the best way you can purchase hard to find plant in good reliable nurseries, and pay reasonable price for them without the costly postage.
If you like to train the Wisteria to a bigger trunk. I would leave it in big pot as you've it. My third Wisteria is in a 5+ gallon pot. The trunk has increased sizeable in the last 12 months. I'd say it's 5-6" in diameter. It's quite attractive, I'll post a pic. of the 3rd Wisteria in the morning. :-)
The youngest plant I have came from an established tree. It popped up a few feet from the main tree. I dug it up and placed it in a pot just a couple of months ago. The other I bought at a plant show in July. It looks a little older. It is about 3 feet tall. I actually forgot that I won another one at a bonsai auction. It was never put in a pot for bonsai, it was just a plant someone bought to someday train. It is about the same size as the other one. The tendrils would be the branches that reach out and grab anything in sight to keep climbing.
I am charging my camera tonight so that I can take a picture tomorrow.
Ah, what I do with those tendrils, just simply trim them back. The only draw back is that, pruning them during the growing season, it just stimulates the vine to produce more growth. So, if at all possible, just roll them up and tie them in bunch. Wait until they are completely dormant (devoid of all leaves, and at rest during the winter). Then shape them to the desired form as you wished. Feb. I say would be good time for our zones. (7-8 zones).
I shall return tomorrow with more pics. I'll see too if I can locate a pic. of the Natal plum's flowers for you to see.
Hapy bonsai-ing.
Kim
Hello Lily_Love,
Sorry, I didn't read all of this thread. Computer screen + eyes = brain mush. :)
You bought that Carissa/Natal Plum? How old is it? What is the trunk diameter on it? Do you eat the fruit? I have some from seed and one looks like it may produce fruit before I die. :)
I'm wondering about the fruit quality and the latex issue.
Any input?
Also, don't spread the word, but I have wisteria (light purple) seeds that I am about to start. Anyone "Bonsai oriented" need some?
Thanks
"germinater"
Hi Germinater, I'm glad to "see" you again here. Welcome, pull a chair. Let's talk gardening and bonsai.
The Natal plum I found is a mature one. Just as the pic. I posted above back in Jan. Whatever the age, the thing can be "forced" into bloom. By severely pruning the root system, and branches while it was dormant. Like most fruiting trees and shrubs, they need a natural area outdoor to bask in sun shines in the growing season, and of course butterflies and bees are our allies to aid in the pollinating process.
I'm not certain the fruits are edible. And you're right the latex secretion from the fruits is very high even when ripe. I collected ton of seeds and shared with Mid-South DGers this past Sept. Some has already successfully germinated for them. But, dispite my provided info. they treated them as hardy perennial outdoors. I don't know if the shrub/tree is hardy or not (in zone 7-8). I was advised to treat them as tender perennial, so indoor it stays for the duration.
Do tell, how is yours being cared for? I discovered the Natal Plum this past winter, so it's relatively new to me.
This is a bigger Wisteria that's kept in a large container, it too is making many a flowers 'spurs'. This one is ready for me to gradually prune the rootball to work it into my Bonsai container. A project for this winter.
This is the smaller one that's in a smaller pot. The roots were trimmed last year, and so I've noticed, the trunk remains relatively the same size it was last year. If any growth, maybe just a slight difference.
This is one of the inflorescent on this smaller Chinese Wisteria that's sitting in a 4" shallow bowl. Although the looks of a young one, but it's propagated directly from mature parent's vine. With the propper training and "forcing" procedures. It's being brought to bloom quite easily as can be seen here.
Hello Ms. Lily_love,
My Carissas all either come in or go under cover before freezing temperatures get here.
I have ?about? :) eight of them. One grew very well and is now a shall shrub. Two more are doing alright with mostly upright growth. Another two of them have not grown much, but are upright in habit. The rest are mostly vine like and I may have to use them for cutting material in spring (not my favorite activity).
They appear to put up with low light very well (maybe why some are sprawling though). Some that I had in full sun have had leaves turn red on them. I don't know if this is from sun or mineral deficiencies, but the ones in shade are all green. ???
From what I have read I would say that zone 9 (with protection) would be pushing it for Carissa. The fruit is edible, and is supposed to be done exuding latex when FULLY ripe (just what I have read). If these plants and I live long enough I'll let you know for sure. :)
Oh- I am in no way going to bonsai these. Some may have received accidental root damage during repotting though.
Early next Spring my large one is going into a fifteen or twenty-five gallon pot. I guess that you can't call that a bonsai. :) I'm growing these for the fruit. If you come across fruit again give it a try (or get Mr. Lily_love to try it ;) and report back to us.
Thanks, :)
"germinater"
Germinator;
I happen to have one plum here. Ooooh, are you sure it's safe to eat them? I love my Mr. Lily_love too much to have him tries it first. But if I try then he would miss me too much should something goes wrong. lol.
The same plum among my Passiflora's fruits.
Ah, the leaves does tend to turn color during the winter months. I gave mine full sun condition during spring through Fall outdoor. Inside with low light, they turns reddish, but healthy otherwise.
Ms. Lily_love, I would eat that right now!
A smart person (not me :) would start by rubbing an unknown "food source" on their arm and waiting (a few hours maybe) for any sign of reaction.
If none, then repeat with your lip - wait - then try tasting (but not swallowing) a small piece - wait - then eat a little - wait - then eat more - etc....
Is there no one around there who would eat that for you?
You Northerners. :))))
Let us know if you try, but make sure it is ripe before you try it. Wouldn't want you to eat an unripe fruit and have a negative opinion. :) What does it smell like?
Tehehehehehe,
You're tooooo funnnyyyyy. Anaphalactic shock isn't anything I'm willing to try for an experimentation. lol. I think I'll wait until the FDA's issue a statement that Natal plums are safe for human's consumption.
I'd like to be around to see my Bonsai's project completion, and many days of enjoyment out of them if the good Lord's willing.
Misssssssssssss Lily_love,
Come on. :)
Carissa jelly. Carissa sauce. Carissa pudding.
I don't know everything there is to know about the "Carissaing business", but if your plant is a carissa it should be good to eat.
Not that it will taste good. I don't know, but you could tell us :))) .
You catch the above movie reference?
see ya
No, I didn't. "Carissaing Business"? hmmmm, no clues. Clueless, none, whatsoever.
Kim
Oh good. You are on-line now.
"Carissa salad, Carissa stew, Carissa sandwich."
There's uhhh lemon Carissa, barbeque Carissa, pepper Carissa, ...........
Substitute in Shrimp for Carissa.
Forrest Gump. :)
I can't believe, I've missed all thos clues that were given!!! Hmmm, it's time for me to rent the movies again for Hollidays' movies treats. Thanks, Germinator.
Kim
dld; Are you with us still? I'm looking for your pics. Let's see your Wisterias, please. BTW; one can't tell which Wisterias you have, until they're in full blooms. Chinese Wisteria will be bloom before all the leaves imerge. Japanese will flower after the leaves unfurl. So are the American variety, differences in that the American Wisteria is more restrained in habit of growth, their inflorescents are relatively shorter than that of Chinese, or Japanese Wisterias.
