how to force bulbs for large containers?

I understand that container-planted bulbs don't do well because of the freeze-thaw cycles. However, I was hoping I could have some to plant out in the containers in the spring (e.g. hyacinths and a few more narcissi). Do they work well being chilled in the refrigerator? (I had a few tulip bulbs last year that didn't look that happy and then didn't do that well in a small pot, but I am not sure if that was because they were too crowded and didn't have enough light.)

I do not have an unheated garage, so will have to make do with my refrigerator. If you recommend going ahead and trying this, I have a couple followup questions:
1. Can I store the bare bulbs (in shredded paper, for example), or do I need to have them planted in the dirt in pots in the fridge?
2. If they need to be in dirt, can they be crowded since I'll be planting them out with more space later?
3. Finally, can the bulbs just be transplanted when the ground has thawed or is it important to start them off indoors and transplant them after seeing shoots?
Thanks!

The only ones I've kept loose in the refridge is hyacinths. I was able to force them in special water vases after storing this way. However all bulbs stored in fridges with ripening fruit will have poor growth due to the gas given off by the ripening fruit (it stunts the bulbs). So I don't know if it is a good idea to try to mix in fridge with food. I happened to put my hyacinths in a fridge that didn't have food so this wasn't an issue for me. One idea if you don't have an unheated garage is to dig a trench outside and put the bulbs in their pots in the ground and cover over with hay or some other type of natural mulch. Then you can have the outside weather conditions do the cold period for you. Then you can take the bulbs and put them where you want. You might want to search this forum for more ideas how to do this.

Here is a link that describes the trench method:
http://www.uri.edu/ce/factsheets/sheets/forcebulbs.html

Info from link:
A simple method involves chilling the pots under natural cold conditions outdoors. Dig a trench or pit in the vegetable or flower garden approximately as deep as the containers. Place pots in the trench or pit and cover with loose, dried leaves, straw or spaghnum moss. Cover the mound with plastic, and anchor it with soil, bricks or rocks. The leaves, etc., act as a buffer zone. Bulbs will receive the cold temperatures they need but will not freeze. While it is not absolutely necessary to cover the pots with plastic, it does make it much easier to remove the pots after the cold period has been completed. The length of the cold period needed depends on the specific bulb and, in some cases, the cultivar. The following table gives cold treatment guidelines for bulbs that are easily forced.



Edit: Include link describing trench method

This message was edited Oct 23, 2007 3:55 PM

1. Yes. I have also chillled them when potted up.

2. They can be crowded, but don't have to be in dirt. However, I think they do better potted up. You can also force tulips and hyacinths in water quite easily. (Many of the books claim that it doesn't work for tulips, but it does. I've done it many times.)

3. I don't think it's necessary. Just don't let them dry out completely. And it helps to put some fertilizer in.