Fiberglass Storage tanks
I have acquired two fiberglass round storage tanks 30” diameter and 6’ long. I was thinking of cutting them in half along the length, which would make two containers approximately 15” deep X 30” wide X 6’ long. I know these would be good for strawberries and shallow root crops but are they ok for tomatoes etc?
Oldude
Fiberglass Storage tanks
I think you would have better luck with tomatoes in a plastic garbage can. Plant seedling @ about 1/2 way and as the plant(s) growts add soil. In no time you will be at the top with a vigorous large root system that will be able to support a mega crop. Do put drainage holes along the bottom-on the side. Do put compost with your potting soil. Tomatoes are heavy feeders. I put expired Calcium pills & one-a-day vitamins(for the zinc) as well. Calcium prevent bottom end rot & zinc helps with producing lots of flower, which become your fruit. Dilute fertilizer with every warm water watering.
They will be fine - especially if they are setting on soil and the soil in the containers is in contact with the soil below through the drain holes. If I can grow a tree with a 6 inch trunk caliper in 3 inches of soil in a 12 inch round pot, I think your maters will do very well in your set-up. The shape of the container (narrower at the bottom) is also a favorable shape in reducing the likelihood of a saturated layer of soil at the container bottom.
Unlike the previous poster, I would refrain from using compost in the soil as it can markedly affect drainage and offers little benefit that cannot be gained by the addition of either organic or chemical micronutrient supplements.
In the same vein as Joanne, though, I would suggest you prune all but the last (top) 2 pairs of leaves from your sets and plant very deep so that the stem is nearly completely buried & only the tip-top of the plant sticks up from the soil. This produces a strong root system almost immediately. Laying the plants on their sides with just the top two pairs above the soil (in spring) also serves the same purpose, but allows the plant to establish strong roots faster when the top layer of soil is warmed more quickly by the sun.
Al
Al
Al
Quote “especially if they are setting on soil and the soil in the containers is in contact with the soil below through the drain holes.”
I had planed to elevate the containers one or two inches above the ground surface to allow unrestricted drainage. Would your instructions not impede the drainage or were you thinking of very large drainage holes much like a raised bed?
Oldude
If there is a continuous bridge of soil (through the drain hole or holes) between that in the tanks & the actual ground soil, the earth will act as a giant wick & remove the water in the perched water table. If the tanks are on the ground, there will also be a slight modification in temperature highs/temperature flux. If you elevate the containers you lose the advantage of temperature moderation & will need to rely on wicking if you wish to remove perched water, regardless of the size and number of drainage holes.
Al