I just posted this information on the brugmansia forum and it is a long post. So I am just going to link to the post so I don't have to re-type all of it. I hope that this is what I have been hoping and praying for in my batlle against the broad/cyclamen type mites.
David
http://davesgarden.com/community/forums/t/770336/
Maybe a cure for mites!!
Thanks for posting this, David. That is good to know.
Looks to be useful against rust as well.
Im wondering about using it on adeniums.
Ill let others do my research ;)
Clare and Mike,
The way that all the information is panning out, the product Anti-Stress 2000, looks to be a magic bullet for a number of plant problems.
Mike, I have been reading that this will control powdery mildew on plants and black spot on roses. Plus, it gives plants a few degrees of protection against frost, up to 8 degrees F. If it does protect against powdery mildew it would be a great help for my veggie garden, to keep my pumpkins, squash, melons and cucumbers from succumbing to it. And to stop black spot on roses, whoo hoo!!
Here is a link showing comparisions of treated vs non-treated plants using the Anti-Stress 2000.
http://www.polymerag.com/tests.htm
Very interesting! I'll add this to the Sticky Thread at the next update.
This message was edited Sep 13, 2007 9:36 AM
Does anyone know how this stuff performs in the warmer climates in the summer? I can understand the winter applications as plants generally do not transpire much when the weather is cold and the product would help to retain moisture. However in the summer, if you are essentially coating the leaves, how does the plant breathe?
Ardesia,
The person who originally posted the information about using the anti-transpirants lives somewhere near the coast in Texas, zone 9. He used it during the middle of the summer, so I would think that you would have no problems in SC.
Even though you are coating the leaves, the plant can still breath.
I think there is a similar action going on with "Forbid." I think it helps to maintain the water balance in the leaves if I'm not mistaken. The thing that I like about "Forbid" is that you can just use a teeny tiny amount per gallon of water, and you can just hit the top of the leaves, and it will work on the bottom of the leaves. It also kills the eggs too. But you are right that it is a huge expenditure and has to be rotated with other miticides. It works well on the whiteflies too, which are a huge problem here.
Clare, I did not know that Forbid works on Whiteflies also. For me they are normally a wintering over pest in the house. But when we have a hot and dry summer like this one, they can become a real problem. I know that whiteflies are bad and can transmit diseases, but they are nothing compared to the broad/cyclamen mites. If they (mites) are not kept in check, they will absolutely stop the growth on the infested plants, because the go for the very tender tip growth.
David, have you ever checked out this site: http://plumeriatc.org/ I thought it might interest you. Sean has been studying mites on plumerias for a couple of years now. I think I am fortunate not to have the broad mites here. I think I mostly have the two-spotted and six-spotted ones.
