I have to share my Begonia "Bonfire" I found for the first time this year. I hope it is OK to put this here since it isn't a Rex or Angel Wing.
I didn't even realize it was a begonia, but sure enough. I took three plants and put them them in a hanging basket. I had six plants, so I have 2 hanging baskets.
It has bloomed continuously now for over a month. I am really pleased with it and hope I can find it again next year if it doesn't overwinter well.
Susan
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another view
Susan
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Yours looks great! Anything begonia should go here but sometimes it gets out of hand with other plants, pets, and other odd things. But that's okay too.
I bought one from Lowe's about a month ago which wasn't labeled but it has to be boliviensis (but is it 'Bonfire'?). Then I picked up a boliviensis v. 'Bonfire' at a local nursery that was half the size (and half the price) but the leaves were darker green and were more compact (maybe just not mature). I took some pictures tonight of the two side by side. The one from Lowe's has been in very high light (full sun until 1 or 2 PM) which may be another reason it has lighter colored leaves.
Isn't it pretty though??
I had never seen a begonia like this before. The tag just says Garden Designs "bonfire"tm Begonia.
It didn't say boliviensis so I didn't know. I at first thought it was something totally new, but the lady at the nursery said no it's a begonia. LOL
Is boliviensis a type of begonia? duh!! But what I mean is, are there other colors of this. I am really impressed with it.
Susan
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I don't think there are any other colors but with hybridization there may be many coming down the pipeline. B. boliviensis is a species begonia from S. America (probably Bolivia?). From what I have gleaned on line is that 'Bonfire' is an improved variety of boliviensis either from the wild or from some grower.
Hey Susan,
I like the one on the left better too. Something about dark green that looks more healthy than pale green, wouldn't you think? I will give all my plants a shot of fertilizer tomorrow morning when it is my turn to water again. Maybe that will get the color to where I think it should be. Time to start pinching this too.
Boy!! thats really nice. I would of never guessed that was a begonia.
I have crossed this boliviensis hybrid B. 'Mission Bells' with my B. 'Rudy Tuttie' and I now have a PINK boliviensis looking plant.
B. 'Bonfire is a selected species from Argentina. The plant is a species BUT it is patented by Richard James Cross(Christchurch, NZ). Begonia boliviensis seeds were obtained in 1990 from selected plants in Northern Argentina. The area where the seeds were collected had many of these plants, however, selection of seeds came from plants judged to be of value as an ornamental crop. The seeds were germinated in New Zealand In 1997/8, three distinct forms were identified of which Begonia ‘Bonfire’ was considered the best. This selection has been maintained and has remained stable through several generations of plants produced by vegetative cuttings. Selection criteria: short bushy growth, bright red/orange flowers, narrow leaves, suitability as a ornamental container plant. Distributed in USA byTesselaar.
Thanks for the info. Beautiful plant.
I don't think there are any other colors
Question from a newbie - can I grow Begonias year-round here? Or will I lose them every year?
oh i love this one would love to know where to get it? plmk and thxs for sharing the pics, awesome
Amanda............you are in Houston...............i lived there for 30 years..........with just a light wt. blanket or sheets and some protection on the coldest nights, you should be able to over winter begonias in Houston...................I always did.............if nothing else...........put them in a utility room or garage on those few frozen mornings that you get............
Butch, did you ever figure out which was which? I have a big Bonfire. I will need to go look in a few minutes when I go to water. Off hand I do not think it is a dark green.
WOW on Mike's plant. I am so regretting I didn't buy any of those from Brad at Kartuz. I almost did.
Here is Mikes plant at Gazebo. I believe he brought this one to the show and it was labeled Bonfire. It seems to have the darker leaves.
That is one magnificent plant...............the blooms melt me!!!!!!!!!
No one answered Eggs_Zachtly's question. I'm wondering about the same thing. This is my first time growing boliviensis and I love it. I want to save it for next year. What is the best way to propagate it?
I forgot to add my pic!
Kell,
I think the darker green is probably 'Bonfire'. Regardless both are nice additions. (I lost both to rot but bought 3 more gallon size at a nursery for $5 a piece).
Plutodrive and Eggs,
When someone finds out how to propagate it, let the rest of us know. I think I saw some little seedlings from seed I put down in some Perlite but I don't know the status now (too tiny for me to see). Being so succulent, I would think you need to let it callous over before potting it.
Nice, Kell!
Are we talking about propagating bonfire? I have rooted 5 inch peices of Begonia boliviensis very easily. I just stuck them in dirt and bagged them. They form a bulb. However if you do it too late they won't have time to form the bulb and then they will have nothing to come back from.
Kell, thanks for replying. Between baskets and hayracks, I have a dozen of these Begonias. With cuttings I already have started, and all of the plants I need to over-winter, my greenhouse is filling up quickly. I'd really rather save the tuber, dry, than try and make room for more cuttings (which, obviously won't be small cuttings all winter, HEH).
I've read several techniques, but I'm unsure of the best method to save the tuber. Digging the plant out now, surely isn't the best idea. The longer the plant is "green", the more energy it will store. I guess my biggest question is, should I let the plant begin to go dormant, then pull the plant, setting it someplace to dry, then removing all of the foilage, extra roots, and soil from the tuber?
This summer's oppressive weather has *finally* turned. We're looking at, at least two weeks of highs in the 60's and 70's, with lows in the 40's and 50's. That's just SO perfect after the way this year has gone. I'm not sure at what temps the Begonias will begin to try and go dormant, but hopefully those lows will help it gradually turn (guessing).
Any ideas? =)
Thanks again,
Eggs
I am interested in the answer too. I don't have a green house and my actual house is so full from all the things I try to overwinter. This is the first year I have seen this plant for sale, so I would like to be sure to have it again, it was just amazing.
Susan
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kittymom and pluto,
Some further searching led to the following information:
Tuberous begonias have a winter dormant period that is determined by the day length and in cold climates, by the weather. This dormancy is a normal part of the life cycle of the tuberous begonia. Many people inquired whether they could be brought indoors and grown on through the winter. The answer is that it is possible with perfect conditions but the best course is to just let them follow their natural cycle and restart them next year. The following are the steps for storage. The time to ready your tuberous begonias for storage depends on what climate you live in so I'm going to give you both.
1. When:
Northern/Cold climates: In areas that freeze during the winter, tuberous begonias must be dug up and the tubers stored indoors for the winter. The time to do this is after you've had that first light frost that ruins the foliage. This is a type of forced dormancy by the weather. A light frost won't damage the tuber under the ground but a hard one will.
tuberous begoniaSouthern/Warm climates: In areas that don't have frost or rarely have frost, tuberous begonias go dormant on their own according to the day length. They usually reach that point in October or November. When they start turning yellow and dropping leaves and stems you need to stop watering.
2. What to do:
Northern/Cold climates: In cold climates, after the foliage has been ruined by the first light frost, dig up the entire plant with its tuber. Gently remove all the soil from the tuber and any loose roots. Check for pests or for rotted areas. Rotted areas can be removed with a sharp knife and dusted with a fungal powder. Lay the entire plant in a warm dry area for several days to thoroughly dry the tuber. Make sure to bring them indoors at night if it's going to freeze. Once the tuber is dry the stem/stems should detach easily. If they don't, it isn't dry enough yet, wait a while longer. (don't be overly concerned if you broke the tops off while digging or by accident, they should still be fine, it's just better if they come off naturally because there will be less chance of rotting.)
Southern/Warm Climates: In warm areas your main worry is keeping the tubers dry during the winter. If you are growing them in the ground it will be difficult to stop them from being watered by rain so you will need to follow the directions for northern climates and dig the tubers to store them. If you are growing them in pots, however, all you need to do is put the pots where they won't get wet or turn them on their sides so they can't be watered.
3. How to Store:
Northern/Cold Climates: Once your tubers are thoroughly dry, place each tuber into a separate paper bag and place the bags into a cardboard box for storage. The reason for the individual bags is so that pests or disease can't spread easily to the entire collection and because they will allow the tubers to breathe. Keep the box in a dark, dry, cool place for the winter (cool, not cold, slightly below room temp). Check the tubers periodically to make sure none are rotting and that no pests have gotten into them. Again rotted spots can be removed and the tuber redried and dusted if they aren't too bad.
Southern/Warm Climates: Like stated above, if they are in pots they can be stored right in the pots by either tipping the pots on their sides or storing them in a cool, dry, dark area where they won't get wet. Follow the cold area directions for tubers that are dug out of beds.
Thanks a zillion for all these tips!!!!!!!
one last question
Is Bonfire a tuberous begonia?
I really appreciate the info above. Thank you so much!
Susan
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Keep in mind Susan that I know nothing but it is and it isn't. It is not the same as the tubers you see with the big gaudy flowers. Those need a rest/dormancy period. I think B. boliviensis (Bonfire is similar) is more a semituberous one. It is my experience if you keep it warm, over 60 degrees in the winter it will not go dormant. But if it gets cold it will and then come back from the tuber under the ground which by the way looks more like a bulb to me from the top I see above the ground. I have had mine stay alive all winter inside and also one die back outside to come back in spring.
Thanks Kell. I may just bring it in and see what happens.
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I think you have it right Kell. Semi-tuberous. It grows in Bolivia (hence the name) and surrounding countries.
http://www.greenbeam.com/features/plantB012907.stm
http://firstclassplants.com/FCP/products_dept/begonia_boliviensis_products_intro.htm
http://www.begoniabonfire.com/en/press/bellfire/
http://books.google.com/books?id=TFWbRbHSowAC&pg=PA89&lpg=PA89&dq=begonia+boliviensis&source=web&ots=SSc9BDdhLE&sig=svBqhAjUMvAPekIz7pJ2_c8UOlw
from: http://www.herbs2000.com/flowers/bg_1_begonias.htm
Tuberhybrida
About 1850, Henderson's nursery introduced Begonia cinnabarina, discovered in Bolivia. It has small orange flowers displayed on tall erect stems, and large leaves.
In the 1860s, a number of tuberous species were found high in the forests of Bolivia and Peru, in the Andes of South America. Of these plants, the following four were discovered by Richard Pearce, who worked for the Chelsea firm of James Veitch & Son. Begonia boliviensis was discovered in Bolivia. It has long slender stems with narrow scarlet flowers and was a major influence in the breeding of today's Pendula begonias.
Begonia pearcei was also discovered in Bolivia and is very compact. Like B. boliviensis, this begonia is still grown today. It has wonderful, dark green leaves with a velvet texture and very marked veins. The small, bright yellow flowers add interest, as it is the only yellow among the tuberous species. Its introduction into the breeding programs led to today's yellows.
Begonia veitchii, collected in Peru, is another compact plant. The flowers are bright red-orange. They have rounded petals and are displayed on strong erect stalks well above the foliage. Both these characteristics have been passed on to modern hybrids. This variety is still grown by collectors.
Begonia rosiflora (or B. rosaeflora according to some authorities) comes from Peru and has small pink flowers, although a later sport or mutation produced white blooms, helpful in developing white varieties. Nowadays, this species is generally considered to be the same as B. veitchii, since the two forms differ only slightly, the main difference being in flower color.
Wow, thanks guys. I thought you would know the answers already! You helped a lot.
