This information is for the FAQ's Sticky Thread.
Some cuttings just plain refuse to be rooted and will rot easily. Some cuttings take a long time to root. Some cuttings can even take a year or more to root. Grafting gives a root system quickly to a cutting in about 30 days or less, and it takes the guesswork out of whether a cutting will root or not. Some cultivars are known to be hard to root so Florida Colors will only sell those as grafts. The root stock of grafted trees are often seedlings, which have a very strong root system, stronger than the root system of a rooted cutting. They also use a cultivar called 'Moonlight' as root stock, which has proved to be a strong grower.
When Luc and Carol (owners of Florida Colors Nursery) had to endure several hurricanes last year, the ones that weren't broken or blown over were all grafted trees, and so Luc feels that the grafted trees are actually stronger because of the grafts. At Florida Colors, grafted plants are just a few dollars more than cuttings so I feel it is worth getting grafted trees when I buy from them as opposed to having to root the cuttings myself.
If you already have a cutting that you want to be grafted, you can either graft it yourself or send it to Florida Colors. They charge $4 per graft plus actual shipping charges back for the return trip. If a cutting is in very poor shape, it often can't be grafted, but sometimes, Luc can save a cutting that is rotting by grafting it. The smallest piece of a cutting, the tip, or even an eye with a branch starting can be grafted to a root stock. When done this way, one single cutting can make many plants. Grafting is a fascinating and efficient way to propagate plumerias.
Here are some (edited) grafting instructions that were posted on the Maui Plumeria Gardens Forum:
"I used a Moonlight rootstock and made an inch and half (1-1/2) cut on both the rootstock and the cutting to be grafted.
Make sure both pieces bleed.
Do this in the heat of the summer.
Put them together. I used push pins (Wal-Mart sewing dept) to hold them as you need three hands.
You are supposed to use grafting tape. All I had was floral tape; it works fine. Start from the bottom up remove the pin's as you go.
I then tape it again from the top down.
Take two 1/4 inch rubber bands cut and tie them together and wrap the graft from the bottom up.
Take a small piece of bell wire to pull the band thru the last wrap.
I set them out in the sun and wait 30 days to see if they took hold. They need to be out of the rain until they heal.
If you don't have a grafting knife, find a long thin blade knife give it a good sharpening. You will need a small piece of bell or phone wire to pull the end of the rubber band thru the last loop.
When you do a graft, it takes a average of 30 days to make sure it is healed. I check every day to see if it has started to rot. You will see shrinkage in the cut area. It is best to take it off and start over.
What I have posted for supplies is what I use and works for me. I don’t see why electric tape will not work as the pins are a third hand when you are the only one.
Both cuts need to bleed fresh. That is why I do the graft in the heat of the summer. Make your first cut on the root stock. You want it to be about 1-1/4" long, then the scion. Hold it up to the host. If you need to cut a little more, do so, then put them together, bleeding, then pin, rubber band, tape, and rubber band to hold the tape on. I have a grafting knife, but I like my super thin boning knife, and I put a razor edge on it. Be careful not to cut yourself.
A 'whip and tongue' graft is used a lot for fruit tree whips. The same long slanted cut is used, but then a second little cut is made in both the rootstock and the scion that lock the two pieces together enough that you can wrap without using the pins. Hard for me to explain, but there are excellent pictures at this site: http://extension.missouri.edu/explore/agguides/hort/g06971.htm
Hibiscus are almost as easy to graft as plumeria. I've used electrical tape, grafting rubbers, and rubber bands and like rubber bands the least. Electrical tape can be removed about a month after grafting, and grafting rubbers fall apart after about a month in the sun. I have a hard time remembering which I used grafting rubbers on and which were rubber bands (they take a lot longer to fall apart). Electrical tape can do a better job of keeping the graft from drying out, both pieces should have good sap flow to ensure a good graft, but sometimes a dry one will take. Watch to see if the wrinkles fill back out."
Kukiat gave this (edited) advice in a thread:
"In fact, there is no need to unwrap the union to see if it took or not. The fresh green firm scion after only 2 weeks should be long enough to call it a success, but the rope should not be removed at week 3. The root stock may push the scion up a bit since if it is unwrappped. It is not necessary to fill the union gap with wax. In my opinion, it should do fine and eventually grow together. If you decide to re-wrap it, you should do it with care since the union is not very strong at week 3.
After unwrapping it, the scion may lose some moisture. It should be covered with a plastic bag and kept it in the shade for a day or so. Then remove the plastic bag but still keep it in the shade. Until it adjusts to the new environment (normally 2-4 days depending on the temperature and humidity outside), then you can move it out in the sun. Make sure that the soil does not dry out at any time (both in the shade and in the sun).
Any buds that start to develop on the root stock should be removed so that all the energy can go to the new shoot.
Celadine and Slaugther Pink seedlings can be used as a good rootstock.
Use a clean, sharp knife and make a smooth cut.
Wrap the union very tightly to make a good contact between the root stock and scion; however, too tight may damage both rootstock and scion.
Wrap the union quickly. Don't allow the cuttings' surfaces, both rootstock and scion, to become dry.
Don't let the scion dry. I normally keep the scion fresh by covering it with plastic bag
Don't let the moisture accumulate inside the material hold the graft together. Inside the wrap should be dry, especially during the first two weeks.
I normally use plastic nylon and wrap it in the way that allows for a lot of air circulation. That way, there is no moisture accumulate inside, but it needs to be covered to keep the scion fresh and prevent water from coming into contact with the graft.
The impermeable ribbon is fine as long as there is no accumulation of moisture inside, especially during the first week. Tie it very tightly but be careful not to damage the rootstock and scion."
Jack Morgan of Kimi's Plumerias added this information over at PlumeriaPals: "Grafts work best with over 50% humidity and 80 degrees constant."
This message was edited May 5, 2007 10:54 AM
All About Grafting, Including Some Instructions
