U.C. Davis fruit tree cuttings

The deadline for hardwood fruit tree cuttings from U.C. repository is December 1. You will need to research cultivars you are interested in before ordering.http://www.ars.usda.gov/Main/docs.htm?docid=12146

Hi Gloria,

Have you corresponded with them about cuttings? I ordered fig cuttings about 8-9 months ago. They were to be sent this past spring, but they sent letters out stating that they could not fill the spring orders. Instead, they were to send dormant cuttings to everyone this winter.

Maybe it is just figs that were delayed. Any ideas?

Stressbaby: Haven't really corresponded. I placed an order just now. I did request variety information from the person listed on each of the catalog pages for persimmon, poms, and figs. Only one of them responded with very vague information. I concluded you have to do your own research as to what will work in your climate, and of course you would know nothing about those that only have accession numbers. I'll let you know if anything happens. Maybe you should re-order as dormant cuttings before the December deadline. There is a telephone number on the order form which might get you to a live person: 530 752-6504, Fax (530) 752-5974. This is for the National Clonal Germplasm Repository, at U.C. Davis.

Gloria: Thanks. I don't think I need to reorder. I no longer have the letter, but it suggested to us that we just sit tight, that the orders would be filled, just as dormant cuttings 6 months later. I have to wonder if they are prioritizing the orders. If so, orders for dormant fig cuttings may end up getting filled only after all of the orders from last spring. I don't know for sure, though.

Parenthetically, I sent a small donation, which they sent back. They are not permitted to take donations. I recall that they will accept a prepaid postage label, if one is so inclined.

stressbaby: on the products and services page, there is a list of priorities: research facilities first, etc.

Right. But since nobody here is likely to be ordering as a research institution, our orders will all fall into the same category. Within that category, I would guess that spring orders would be filled before fall orders...figs, anyway.

There is a whole gang of us who ordered in the spring on another forum. I'll check there to see if anyone has heard anything. Thanks.

I did receive just now an acknowledgement of my order and information that the cuttings will be sent Jan/Feb.

I have sent off for a bunch and I know that the Kiwis are coming for sure, she called me and asked if I need those or just some kiwis, when I said some she jumped on it and said they would be going out. I know that the plums are also heading this way... I know with the figs it matters what you want and why, I am useing these in a school garden and thus might be bumped up the list a little... just my little knowledge...

MitchF: the school garden sounds interesting. what grades? what do the kids do in the way of selecting plants and participation? I think the only thing more exciting than growing plants, is getting kids involved in the process. My 4 year old grand niece is so excited about planting. Learning winter sowing this year. She lives near Traverse City, Mi. so she knows about winter.

This will be a PreK -5th grade garden, the kids dont pick what we do much but they get to help us work out the problems and plants that we have there and pick up one way or another,.

It really is a lot of fun...

Today I read on another forum that the UC Davis figs are "seriously infected" with fig mosaic virus. My reading indicates that the virus is transmitted by a mite and by vegetative cuttings.

Can anyone confirm or refute this statement?

Stressbaby:

http://www.ars.usda.gov/Main/docs.htm?docid=12146

I e-mailed Howard Garrison at the National Clonal Germplasm project, ficus cultivars, I will let you know what he has to say.

Excellent, Gloria, thanks!

Stressbaby: This is what Howard Garrison has to say:
Our collection is infected with Fig Mosaic Virus . To my knowledge only the
country of Yemen claims to have virus free figs . However , they also will
not allow their fig's to be tested for (FMV) . The virus is spread by fig
aphids . There is a process called tissue culture that can produce a virus
free fig tree . Unfortunately the Fig's must be grown under greenhouse
conditions . As soon as the trees are planted in outdoor orchards the trees
are vulnerable to the spread of the virus . The virus is most obvious in
the Spring during cooler temperatures , as soon as the Summer heat arrives
the symptoms subside . A small number of figs are severely stunted by the
virus . To my knowledge the commercial crop yields are not severely
effected . It is something we just have to live with at this stage . We are
working on a solution for this virus , but I'm not aware of a sure workable
solution at this time . Your climate my be your biggest limiting factor .
The cooler the climate the more effect the virus may have . I hope this
will help your decision .

Respectfully

Howard Garrison

What does that mean? All figs have the potential for mosaic virus if fig aphids are present?
Would our respective Departments of Agriculture have restrictions on propagating these figs?
I can't think of any State more restrictive than California, and they are growing them.

HA! More questions than answers, now!

I wonder if the figs we have now are already infected?

http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/r261100611.html

Here is an article on management. I think this says two things. (1) Never propagate from infected trees.

(2) Grow the cuttings and inspect for symptoms of the virus.

From the CRFG site:

"Mosaic virus, formerly considered benign, probably causes crop reduction. Symptoms resemble potassium deficiency--leaves are marbled with yellow spots, and the veins are light colored. Symptoms are often not apparent until the tree is older or when it becomes heat or water-stressed. Do not purchase infected trees and isolate those which show symptoms."

Well, I think I will check with Auburn University tomorrow, but my inclination is not to grow infected plants. I do have some cuttings from old abandoned house sites. At least I know they are healthy. The trees must be 50 years old at least.

I'm thinking the same thing, Gloria. LMK if you hear anything else.

This is a major topic on the gardenweb fig forum, go there and do a search. Nearly all the people there seem to be just living with it, and not often finding it a problem. It is also not clear how many fig nurseries are in fact selling virused stock. I *think* my main planting of figs is virus-free but would not be at all surprised to learn it was not. I have avoided Davis cuttings myself for this reason but if I were seriously into collecting obscure figs I would probably just go for it.

Scott

Scott, I was thinking the same thing. How do we know that the figs we have now are not infected? I guess we don't.

Gloria.... Don't be surprised if it takes you a few days to get an answer from Auburn, if nobody has answered you yet. It been finals week and most everybody is out right now unless they giving a final and it was graduation on friday for seniors I believe.

Try and reach Dr. Dozier or Dr. Ebel. Dr. Dozier would be my first choice for probably the best answers.

Stressbaby... the only way your goign to know for sure if your infected or not is to take a pice of yoru plant to one of the colleges that has a plant pathology lab to do the testing. Unless it gone up usually 10 to 15 bucks to have tests run.

Here a link to soem pictures f what it looks like if you haven't seen it. Just scroll down to Fig Mosiac viruses

http://www.jardin-mundani.com/English/Phytopatologies.htm

Scotts right. With a virus , you just live with it. Doesn't hrut you or anybody to eat the fruit. Your tre e may look bad and not produce as much fruit. I wouldn't destroy any trees I had, but I definately would be scouting all the time for ahpids and other pest and disease problems and try to do preventivie methods where possible.

Some trouble shooting from Canadian Gardening.
TROUBLE-SHOOTING
Figs are relatively trouble-free, but there are a few problems you should watch out for.
• Excessive moisture can cause fruit to sour and split on the branches. If this happens, pick remaining immature fruit for use in jams and preserves.
• Prolonged hot, dry weather can cause fruit to toughen and fall prematurely. Supply adequate water and, if in a container, move the tree to a cooler location with some shade.
• Figs need as much sun as they can get, up to eight full hours of direct light each day. Less sun means fewer fruit that won’t ripen as quickly.
• Trees grown in the ground can be affected by root nematodes, causing stunted growth of woody branches and galls and knots on roots. Move infected trees to another location in the garden.
• Tree borers seriously damage fruit-producing wood. Prune out infested branches.
• Mealy bugs and scale insects can drain vigour and reduce fruiting. The tree can tolerate small infestations, but spray larger colonies with a pyrethrum-based insecticide.
• Leaf rust is a fungal disease characterized by small yellow-green spots that eventually turn brown; the disease is triggered by excessive wet weather and causes leaves to drop prematurely. Remove all diseased leaves. If weather remains wet and spots persist, spray with a copper-sulfate fungicide such as Bordeaux mixture.
• Mosaic virus causes leaves to become mottled and dwarfed, although the tree will continue to produce fruit. The virus can’t be treated but is seldom a reason to discard the tree. It will produce less fruit but still may be worthwhile.
PROPAGATING
To propagate figs, take cuttings whenever the plant isn’t actively growing—early spring, just before buds open, or midsummer, after the spring growth spurt is over. The cuttings should be 15 to 30 centimetres long, with some two-year-old wood at the bases. Make a straight cut just below a node and dip the bottom end in rooting hormone. In a cool place, lay a sheet of waxed paper on a table or shelf, put the cuttings on the paper and place another sheet overtop. Let the cuttings callus (form protective tissue over the cut) for one week; then dip them in rooting hormone again and plant into containers. Keep the cuttings in a cool, shady location and maintain even soil moisture. They will initiate roots in six to eight weeks.

Few more links you might find interesting.

http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/r261100611.html

http://plantpathology.tamu.edu/Texlab/Fruit/Fig/fig.asp

I don't know if you eat pigonpeas or not, but thsi article has a list of some of the treatment for the mite causing the virus . Might be some of these products could be used as IPM's for the fig.

http://trophort.com/004/227/004227163.html

Starlight 1153: How great to get info from someone right here in Alabama. I posted Howard Garrison's email on the Tree and Shrub forum to get response from the "tree nuts" who hang out over there. You might want to look over there also to see what Lucky P had to say. Also there is a discussion over at Garden Web. The consensus seems to be that almost all figs have the potential for fig mosaic virus. If you want to grow figs you just have to put up with it. Im hoping the trees will do better here in the Alabama heat. I will check in again at Auburn after finals. And thanks so much for your interest.

If anybody interested in a good place to get fruit vines, trees and plants, this place is excellent.

Been there several times. They do mail order too, which is great. You may not be to far from them Gloria. Not to much to look at, you mainly just tell them what you want and they go get it. But never had a problem from them and had friends in other states order from them too with no problem.

http://www.isons.com/

Yep it just mosaic virus in tomatoes and peppers. Won't hurt you to eat them, just hard on the plant. I have a couple of small figs that came from cuttings and they in 5 gallon pots til I figure out where I gonna put them and they doing fine.

Thanks for the information Starlight. Its probably always best to buy your main stock of fruits and trees from sources close to home--plants already adapted to the climate and insects that are inevitable part of our environment. I know I used to live in California and Ive never quite gotten used to the humidity and temperature (and fireants) here. In Santa Barbara where I went to school, it is (or was) 70 degrees all year round. No fireants, either. I guess a plant would have an even harder time to re-adapt.