Is this a tight crown?

Nottingham, MD(Zone 7a)

Howdy,

In my travels, before I began growing AVs, I've read about tight crowns and how they can be unhealthy for the plant. Can you tell me if this is true and if this AV has a tight crown? If so, what should be done about it, if anything? Thanks a bunch!

GH

Thumbnail by GrowHappy
Frederick, MD(Zone 6b)

Your center does look a wee bit too tight. How are you growing? Under lights?

Nottingham, MD(Zone 7a)

Hi Snowrose,

It's only been under lights for a little over 1 week now- about 8 inches from the tube. Prior to that it was growing in a West window, that was slightly obstructed by leaves. Could it also come from fertilizing it? What do I need to do about it?

Thanks SNR,

GH

Silver Spring, MD

I think I see one of the leaves curling down. Are the leaves a little hard to the touch? Both are signs of too much light.

Nottingham, MD(Zone 7a)

Yes, Nanna, lvs in center are hard to the touch and a couple of them are curling down. Would it help to move it to the end of the row or just move it to another shelf with the light further away? What's the best distance for an AV from a bulb? Thanks for you help!

GH

Frederick, MD(Zone 6b)

GH -
So many factors come into play here....

Hard tight centers could be several things related to culture -

Cold.... too close to grow lights....and possibly too much fertilizer. For now, I would flush thoroughly from the top with plain tepid water and drain well. When slightly dry, then you can resume fertilizer at the rate of 1/8 -1/4 teaspoon per gallon of water. Move from grow lights as 8" may be too close I suspect. Put at the end or off to the side. If it is an Optimara or other noid type like Anthoflores....most really don't like being grown too close to the lights. Also, I would think about isolatating this plant from others you have to be on the safe side.

Other than that, continue keep your eye on the center and if it gets worse and tighter and distorted, hairy, or grey, then it could be mites but let's hope not.

Good luck, GrowHappy!

Snow

Silver Spring, MD

Hey Snow. Do you think 12" away from the light might help?

Nottingham, MD(Zone 7a)

Thanks Snow! I isolated it and moved it away from the high light. I watered it yesterday, so I will flush the next time it's due to be watered. Thanks so much, again.:)

GH

Frederick, MD(Zone 6b)

Sure, nanna, maybe more depending on variety. I have one Optimara named 'Millennia' that just didn't like being directly under lights in my conditions. The foliage became hard and brittle. I moved it to sit on a stool between two light stands. 'Picasso' is the same way for me. Every grower has their own environment and sometimes plants need moving about to make them happy.

Madison, WI(Zone 4b)

I keep all of my standards 12" from the lights and the semiminis are about 8" away. That should take care of your tight centers. My lights are left on 14 hrs a day. 12 would be fine but I enjoy seeing the plants.

Nancy B

Frederick, MD(Zone 6b)

Everyones growing area is so different, Nancy. In my plant room, which has no windows btw, if I left my lights on for 14 hours a day, my plants would be fried. I had them on for 12 hours then reduced to 11 which is fine but now I am even considering 10 to see how it does. Maybe it's because my plant room walls are painted bright white perhaps? Also, depends on the fixtures. I find the fixtures with the wide reflectors disperse the light better in a wider pattern and the resulting light is not as intense as regular shop lights with the narrow reflectors.

Using just cool white florescents seems to grow more compact plants. In my 2 tube fixtures I find what works well for me is one bulb emitting mostly blue light and the other bulb emitting more of the red spectrum (looks more pink rather than blue).

Frederick, MD(Zone 6b)

I think the skinnier T-8 tubes are also a bit brighter than the standard (T-12?) florescents.

I'll get a mix of "cool" and "warm" bulbs when I replace mine... thanks for the tip!

Frederick, MD(Zone 6b)

Sure, Critter. One cool (blue) and one warm (red) gets it done and provides a good balance of the light spectrum the violets can use best. I don't have any of the new T8's but I do think the industry is headed that direction more and more. The GroLux WS (wide spectrum) provide more of the red. They have a definite pink cast when lit.

Silver Spring, MD

I've been reducing the amount of time under lights too. My lights are on 9 hours a day but the stands are in rooms where there is a lot of natural light as well.

Edited to add. I started reducing the number of hours in October. I have noticed that the crowns are more relaxed and all the leaves are softer to the touch and not so brittle. They "feel good" to the touch. The blooms continue even with less light.

This message was edited Nov 16, 2006 1:03 PM

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