How long until A. fasciata pups are rooted? I received 2 in trade, potted them in cactus/succulent mix, watered lightly, and they are on the heat mat getting indirect bright light. I understand they don't get the biggest root system; just need to know when I can take them off the heat mat and put them someplace to show them off,like the living room, dining room window, etc. It's been about a week.
Aechmea fasciata pups- how long until rooted?
They can get large root systems - it's just not "normal" for them (in nature). I also use bottom heat too and it works really well. I routinely use rooting hormone with a fungicide. Many growers don't, but it's easy and doesn't take much effort. Since Bromeliad roots are tough, I like to give the pup a gentle tug upwards. If I see lots of movement in the mix it suggests that the roots are expanding nicely. As to when you pot the plant it's a personal preference. My prop box is under the bench in the shade, so if I leave the plant in there too long and it starts growing on top it's likely to "elongate." If you leave it in too long it's also possible that the roots won't fit in your pot. Witness the picture of DW holding a rooted Ae. fasciata. I think one week probably isn't long enough.
wow, nice roots. I dusted it with rooting hormone that has fungicide in it. I'm keeping the mix moist but not wet. I'll keep tugging until they're rooted. Should I hold off feeding until they are rooted? And what do you feed with? Thanks!
No obvious reason to feed without roots except that most Bromeliads are epiphytic, meaning they don't use their roots for feeding (in nature). So you can spray them with water (preferably rain water) with a very dilute addition of fertilizer. But often the pups don't start growing right away on their own when seperated, so I wouldn't bee in too much of a hurry to fertilize them.
I fertilize everything monthly except in winter when I typically skip December and February. I use a regular strength 17-8-22 with trace elements (1 tblsp/5 gallons), Superthrive (I really don't know if it works or not), and Merit (Imidicloprid, for scale control) in the pots and spray everything foliarly (is that a word?) with the same. In Spring and Fall I apply Osmocote in all the pots. The only Bromeliads that I skimp on with the fertilizer are Neoregelias. Too much nitrogen and they can loose some of their color.
After the recent post by Eclipse http://davesgarden.com/forums/t/644934/ I'm using Dip 'n Grow for a trial. We'll see how it works. Previously I just used Rootone.
Dave.
I saw that post too.
I liked Dip n Grow for the things like hydrangeas and herbs, but bought Rootone to start a dwarf plumeria cutting. The Dip n Grow is probably better for stuff like herbs, etc -- things that can't really grab onto the Rootone very well. I'm using both types on different cuttings of cordylines side by side, so I have a real comparison going right now. One advantage of Rootone is that for succulents, if you cut them and don't wait a long time for callus formation (like I did with the plumie cutting, the end looked a little black and mushy so I cut it to where it was hard again), you can dry it in air and then in the Rootone. Or so I read, I'm hoping I didn't kill that plumie!
Dave,
"No obvious reason to feed without roots except that most Bromeliads are epiphytic, meaning they don't use their roots for feeding (in nature)"
The above quote is from your post on this thread at 2:41 p.m. . What is the purpose of the roots? And where do they get their feed? Through the leaves?
Thanks for any clarification,
Louise
In nature, the roots are only for physically anchoring the plants in trees. Bromeliad roots are wirey and tough. The leaves are highly adapted to absorb both water, nutrients, and CO2. The Tillandsias, the most highly specialized epiphytic plants have very noticible trichome scales that absorb moisture from the air while minimizing moisture loss during the day. Tillandsia purpurea, for example, is the only plant that routinely survives in the Atacama desert region of coastal northern Chile, considered by many as the driest place on earth. Tillandsia duratii, one of my favorites, is typical of the atmospheric Tillandsias with its very scurfy leaves (see close-up picture). The more typical tank-type Bromeliads grow in much wetter conditions and don't need as specialized leaves. Nevertheless, most Bromeliads are epiphytic as opposed to terrestrial. The most notable exceptions are the Pineapple (Ananas comosus) and a number of the xeric Hectias, Dyckias, and Puyas.
All that said, Bromeliads (except for the atmospheric Tillandsias) generally do better in cultivation in pots. Their root systems adapt so well to water and nutrient uptake that they don't have to have super high humidity (although most of them certainly prefer it).
Dave.
Dave,
Thanks for the information. That clears up the 'nutrient' question that puzzled me. I didn't realize the real purpose of the roots as being for stabilization.
Louise
We have had our Aechmea fasciata first one in a pot it had a few babies got neglected but was neautiful and bloomed each year. Then about two years ago they got planted in our garden bed. Grew and multiplied ! Bloomed every year for about 9 months long ! Then two years ago we moved dug them up nice roots re-planted them in garden bed when we got around to it ! Gave a few away.
We still have a half a dozen or so blooming and couple pups growing well. This has got to be the easiest plant to grow beautiful fun , progates nice makes easy to share with neighbors ! Oh ours just grows in rich humus organic soil their as happy as can be in morning sun shade garden. Of course Florida is different growing. Year round outside .