Read FAQ stickey...still stupid.

Hi Guys, Need any advice on making the cuts on the lower left branch in my photo. 30'-36 overall length. Leaving the first upright alone I cut at the base of it freeing the "Y" portion. Both extending branches have two growth points. I would like to have 2-3 cultivars (is that the right term?). I read here that I might possibly wait till October/nNovember to make the cuts and then store them on newspaper till they callus over and then plant them in containers,watering through once till Spring inside. Sound right? Thanks Brian
And 20-20-20 in the spring?

This message was edited Sep 23, 2006 7:22 PM

Brian,

It just depends what you want to do to the mother plant and how many new cuttings you want. Cultivars are genetically different plants so I don't think that is the term that you are looking for. You want 2-3 cuttings; right?

Here is your picture below. To prune in a way that is asthetically pleasing to your parent plant, you could prune either at the blue line or at the red line, but that would give you just one multi-branched cutting. You could prune at the yellow line, and that would give you two multi-branched cuttings, but the parent plant would be left with a center cut branch, from which it would probably grow new branches.

The proper place to cut is really at the pink line because new branches will grow from the nodes of both branches, giving you a fuller tree, and this will give you two multi-branched cuttings.

I would not prune this time of year. Your chances of branch dieback are much greater this time of year. I would prune in the spring when growth begins again. That is the best time for rooting cuttings as well. Cutting now and waiting until spring is risky because your cuttings can easily become desiccated between now and spring. If you do decide to cut now, I would root the cuttings right away on a heat mat under lights indoors this fall and winter. A balanced fertilizer is fine in the spring after your cuttings are rooted and have leaves.

Hi Clare, Thanks so much for the geat info. You are awesome! I hadn't even thought about the pink line cut. It will not only keep a good shape but provide two cuttings.. Great!! Thanks! I will wait for Spring to make the cuts (at an angle after sterilizing the tool!). I'm learning so much.
Starting to get fairly cool at night up here. Have to start thinking about how I'm going to get this monster in the house!!
Later, Brian

My pleasure, Brian. Glad I could help If you have to prune to get it into the house, then that is understandable, but just be aware that branches tend to die back after being pruned when the plant is not in growth mode. I know people who have big trees that store them lying down in the garage. They seem to do fine that way for the fall and winter.

I've been trying to figure out what Zone you are in. If you have a big tree, you might be able to create some microclimates around your tree, taking precautions during frost warnings, and keep it outside all year. You would have to have it near a big structure, like your house, which radiates heat at night. Some people put Christmas lights on their tree for warmth as well. It would go dormant outside, and it might suffer some freeze damage at the branch tips if not protected, but it would sprout new branches in the spring. The larger the tree, the more tolerant of cold they are. I think you could do it if you are in 9b but not 9a or 8. It just depends upon what Zone you are in.

Clare he is in Zone 9b..
http://www.usna.usda.gov/Hardzone/hzm-sw1.html

He is in the zone 14 region for weather..
ZONE 14. Inland Northern and Central California with Some Ocean Influence
Growing season: early Mar. to mid-Nov., with rain coming in the remaining months. Periodic intrusions of marine air temper summer heat and winter cold (lows run from 26 degrees to 16 degrees F/-3 degrees to -9 degrees C). Mediterranean-climate plants are at home here.

Thanks, Robert:-)

Hey thanks you guys! I've always been a bit confused as to what zone I was in. Per Sunset it's 14 and USDA is 9b? Great! Thanks Robert. Clare, I think I'm going to wrestle her in carefully in her container and place the container on a heating pad. No water or fertilizer till Spring. The cuts will be made in Spring. I just got a couple Adenium Obesum and will bring them in with my Plumie. You guys are great! Brian.

Brian, if you are going to give supplemental heat and light, then your tree probably won't go dormant, and you'll want to keep watering, or she will become desiccated and wrinkled. When a heating pad is being used, all cautions about overwatering are thrown out. I would just water when the soil looks dry. If you are not going to use an additional source of bottom heat and supplemental light, then you can withhold water and let your tree go dormant -- whatever works best for you.

Thanks Clare. On second thought I think I will take it out of the pot in a couple weeks if temps get to the low 40s, wash all the dirt away and allow to dry. I will then put her in my bedroom where I have a good spot in the corner for the winter. Low light, no water or fertilizer and let her go dormant till Spring. Bedroom? Yes, well that's about the only room that has a good spot! Sound Ok?
Thanks again, Brian

Hi Brian, I leave mine out all year so I am actually the least knowledgable in the area of indoor care. If your bedroom has heat and light, which I assume it does, then I would probably leave it in its container and keep the leaves on but keep it on the dry side. If it is going somewhere cool with little supplemental light, like a garage, then it should do fine with no leaves, no soil, and bareroot. Your best bet is to check with the others on what they do in the winter and check out all the links and information on overwintering in the Sticky Thread because I wouldn't want to steer you wrong. I do know that plumies are fine outside when it gets down to the low 40's as long as they are in well-draining soil and not overwatered. My plumies do fine in the high 30's even. You would just want to make sure that they are not subjected to temps below about 35, and you would want to throw a sheet or some protection over them in case of a frost warning. You could put them against your house for added protection and warmth. If we do happen to have a warm winter, your plumies will bloom much sooner if you do not bareroot them.