Overplanting Spring Bulbs

Spring City, TN(Zone 7b)

I've got a new bed to plant in bulbs -- and it WILL BE beautiful, but I am realizing it will look empty when it's fully planted... oops.

What can I overplant for the parts of the year when Spring Bulbs are dormant? I was thinking varigated vinca (I got lots of that and it likes a haircut!) or a couple of big shrubs that won't be leafed out in early spring...?

Chicago, IL(Zone 5a)

Try the following -

Black-Eyed Susan (Rubeckia),
White Swan (Echinacea purpurea) or
Cone Flower (Echinacea Magnus)

Those are three of the care-free & reliable perennials. They come up a bit after spring bulbs are gone.

Winchester, KY(Zone 6a)

I like hosta (if there is summer shade in the area) and daylilies for this. They help hide the ugly browing foliage of the bulbs too.

Lisbon, Portugal(Zone 10a)

How is your bed situated? Is it near a wall, or something that could support a climber of any sort?

Spring City, TN(Zone 7b)

Near a fence, sun from 11a-1p.

Winchester, VA(Zone 6a)

Way, I too plant hosta, rudebeckia and daylilies. I added Mondograss to one side and it's doing okay. I have planted spider wort (for color and staying power, hides brown leaves) and soap wort too (groundcover). I can't remember the name of this yellow, but it also does well with my bulbs

good luck

Thumbnail by pegdog
West Pottsgrove, PA(Zone 6b)

I think it's threadleaf coreopsis. I really posted 'cuz I'd like to hear more suggestions for plants over bulbs, or even what NOT to plant.....? Thanks, please keep 'em coming Mike

Denver, CO

Sure thing Claypa:

Groundcovers. {I can't bear bare earth!}
Lilium or Gladiolus.
Ferns.
Cosmos are especially good- {they are late (after ripening leaves die to the bulb) bloom all summer, and die at first frost.}
Nasturtiums {much like cosmos}
Strawberries- work well with tulips.
Oxalis- watch out for the vigour of species.
Violas- bloom all fall and winter, reach a climax with the bulbs, but are competition-submissive to most bulbs.
Poppies- August-sown will cover any autumn bare spot.
Ipomoea- Those colorful groundcover sweetpotatoes- for Summer.
Late-season plants like Cannas, hibiscus, etc.
Vinca are good, but V. major will get too thick.

Don't:
Nicotiana- they will compete with the bulbs even as it gets cold.
Calendula- same thing; they'll reach a peak just as the bulbs are blooming...
Daylilies- must be distanced a bit. The early leaves compete, and some bulbs find it hard to get through the tubers.
Deep rooted annuals- when you pull them, they yank bulbs with them!
Lycoris- the leaves are just too competitive with spring-blooming bulbs.
Hedera- Plain english Ivy. Too thick and woody after a time, way too much root competition. Miniatures work nicely, though, and variegated leaves are excellent backgrounds.

That's all I've got, have fun on your new project.
K. James

North East England, United Kingdom(Zone 8a)

Like your idea but as has already been suggested you have to maximise every inch of earth so that you have interest all year round. I find good plants for cover are the perennial geraniums, epimedium, foxgloves, tiarella, campanula. Avoid anything with thick roots as Kenton has said - it's excellent advice! Be careful with shrubs if they are too big they will starve the bulbs and take up too much light. Above all have fun experimenting - that's what it's all about! Good luck and let us know how you get on.

West Pottsgrove, PA(Zone 6b)

Thanks a lot, folks. Now I'm wondering which annuals have big root systems. I guess I'll be learning more about that in the coming weeks, when I start pulling some.
Mike

Necedah, WI(Zone 4b)

Going to print this thread out. I have bulbs coming this fall and have been wondering what I should plant with them. Great question, and answers- Thanks!

Stratford, CT(Zone 6b)

Creeping nasturtium is an easy care free annual to plant in bald patches and it won't compete with most other plants. It's also shallow rooting and will take just about any soil type. The only down side is that it needs about 6 hours of sun a day. Unfortunately, your lack of sun (only 2 hours worth if I'm reading correctly) will limit what you're able to grow in terms of flowers, so seek out nice foliage plants.

Denver, CO

I forgot to write Helleborus.
And I think the more drought-tolerant annuals might tend to be the rootier ones. Perhaps, anyone else's thoughts there?

Lack of sun- the ubiquitous Impatiens. Or Caladiums for summer.
Kenton

Winchester, VA(Zone 6a)

in the sun: new guinea impatiens are great for annuals. and the dianthus annual is fun for color. except the deadheading chore, it's a good one for me.

Necedah, WI(Zone 4b)

what do you all think of Zinnias?

Denver, CO

Brilliant.

Necedah, WI(Zone 4b)

oh good! man, I thought I was the only person up at this miserable hour (I'm hard at work studying for an exam- can't you tell? ;>)

Denver, CO

Absolutely, I'm getting sleep to be alert for my advanced oil painting class.

(edited to add: So, nightfellow, are you Southern Italian or pollen-bearing insect?)

This message was edited Sep 26, 2006 1:07 AM

Necedah, WI(Zone 4b)

"So, nightfellow, are you Southern Italian or pollen-bearing insect" arru? wow, I must be tired :) that one just flew on by me

you going for a BFA?

Denver, CO

Yes, How know'st thou this?

Hybla. Island in Italy. The beehives?
What does your name mean to thee, chap?

Necedah, WI(Zone 4b)

ah....Hyblaean means 'sweetly smoothly flowing'- I can be the opposite at times :) It's my way of teasing myself- so island in Italy is the answer- good call, how'd you come across something that obscure? never had anyone come even close before
I've got me one of those- useful thing a BFA is :) It's why I'm back in school- my partner would like to eat something besides ramen in the next 5 years, and come to think of it- so would I
you going for painting? I was sculpture- painting is more practical, sadly. What kinda work do you do- abstract? realism? botanical?

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