I posted this in the lily section but someone told me to post it here. My kafir lily has something wrong with it and it needs help. I'm so afraid that it is going to die. Anyone know what could be causing this. Here is a photo of what it looked like a couple months ago. Then I'll show you what it looks like now.
Jesse
This is what it looks like now. Please help.
Jesse
Maybe it is going dormant after blooming . I have not seen one like that but the bulbs of plants do go dormant and the leaves fall off in the fall. Have you looked in the plant files to see what happens after they bloom? That is all the information I can offer. If its going dormant stop watering so much and let it die back and in the spring it will come back again. Fran
It's just going dormant - stop watering it and set it in a dark closet and forget it until it has rested a couple of months, then bring it back into bright light and begin LIGHTLY watering it until new straps appear. Fran gave you good advice.
Wait-
Aren't Clivia evergreen and don't go dormant?
Jesse, was it inside, and you moved it outside a few months back?
Kenton
Are the spots on the leaves rather reddish? I think that it has a fungal leaf infection similar to amaryllis red spot. If so, a copper fungicide spray should help. Cut off the infected foliage and treat the remaining leaves according to package directions.
Beth
It was on my front porch until we moved. Then we moved it to a table with no shade thinking it needed more sun. That is why I am thinking the leaves might have gotten burned.
The spots are not reddish but look like scortched spots on the leaves.
Jesse
If it is sun scortched , then you should see healthy new leaf growth and the burned areas should not spread. If it spreads consider a fungal or bacterial infection.
Beth
I was outside cleaning up my greenhouse earlier and I took a closer look at my poor baby. And I found something "growing" on its leaves. It is some speckled little things that come off if you scrape them off with your fingernail. I thought it was some sort of bug but they are not consist in size or shape. But I looked in my plant book to see if my specks look like anything in there and they do look sort of like scales or possibly aphids. I took a photo of the leaf with the little speckled things on it. What do you think it might be?
Jesse
Here it is I found the instruction how to take care of CLIVIA from Whiteflowerfarm.com.
Clivia miniata +++++++++++++
Clivias have a well-earned reputation as rugged houseplants that require little attention. They grow best where they receive bright daylight but little or no direct sun--in a north-facing window, for example, or in an east-or west-facing window that is partially shaded by sheer curtains. You can summer your plant outdoors in a shady location. Just remember to bring it back in before frost. Clivias won't endure temperatures that dip much below freezing.
Your Clivia will flower more reliably if given a period of dormancy in winter. For 12-14 weeks after it arrives, keep the plant in a cool room (50-65°F is ideal) and withhold water. Keep a close eye on your plant during this resting period. If you see the plant begin to wilt, add a scant 1-2 cups of water, just enough to moisten the soil lightly. Begin normal watering at the end of this period. (In future years, begin winter dormancy on November 1, and resume normal watering around the middle of February.) Bloom usually, but not always, follows in 6-12 weeks. After the bloom have faded, cut flower stalks off at the base, and remove leaves as they wither and turn brown.
During the growing season, from late winter through October, water thoroughly (until water drains freely from the hole in the bottom of the pot) when the top inch of the potting mix becomes dry to the touch. Clivias prefer to be kept on the dry side. Potting mix that remains constantly wet can cause rot, which is first manifested by the appearance of pale green or bright orange cankers on the leaves. We strongly suggest that you avoid a weekly watering regimen and instead water only when the plant requires it. Please note that misting the leaves is neither necessary nor desirable and can encourage disease.
During spring and summer, fertilize your plant monthly with a water-soluble fertilizer (20-20-20) mixed at half the recommended strength. Use restraint; more fertilizer is not better. Stop fertilizing by mid-September.
Clivias tolerate considerable crowding of their roots and bloom best, in fact, when pot-bound. As a plant grows, some of the fleshy roots may push their way up above the potting mix. This is normal. Repotting is necessary only every 3-5 years. The best time to repot is after the plant blooms in spring.
http://www.whiteflowerfarm.com/growguide-254.html
