Especially for those Texans (like myself) who are in stage 3 water restrictions .....
I have just put the finishing touches on a nice 18X23 vegetable garden ... stone wall, drainage system, irrigation, topsoil ... whole nine yards.
(please don't ask why I did this in the middle of a drought ... it was planned and commenced long before all this happened)
Essentially, if I wanted to plant, I could do so right now, but ...
Fence doesn't go up until Aug 9th. Then spray sealant for the cedar fence, yada yada yada.
(don't want Roger Rabbit to benefit any more than he does on my impatiens)
AND
Water restrictions. I don't mind hand watering, but I want input on whether I should try to get a fall yield (we are at the tail end of many suggested start times) or should I wait and try a spring planting, when we should have water, I will have time, etc, etc.
I would appreciate any input, suggestions, comments, complaints, etc. I don't bruise easily :)
W J
Frisco, Texas
Should I, or should I not ???
If I were you I would concentrate on building up the soil now, and then plant some fall crops when the weather is more bearable and there are less water restrictions.
You are smart to fence the garden, how tall is the fence going to be?
Josephine.
I'm zone 7b/8a and plan to plant summer squash, bush green beans, spinach, and a variety of lettuces. Tomato and broccoli plants should be available, but it's too late for me to start them from seed. Our spring garden went awry due to health problems, but if it cools off just a little, I will try again for the fall.
I dug out the ol' Plant diary. You're so close to me this should work. This is from seed unless noted.
August 1st-14th i'll plant
acorn squash
cow-peas
August 15th-30th
green beans
broccoli
cabbage
dill
cucumber
September
summer squash
kohlrabi (sp?)
cauliflower
October
lettuce mix
beets
parsly
swis chard
collard greens
garlic
I think that I plant later than other gardeners in my zone. But to me it's a toss up. Watch seedling suffer in the heat or risk the loosing them to a hard frost in December (I think this has happened once for me in the last five years)
Thanks all:
The fence is going to be 6 feet. I have done a "study" and I will get 12 hours of sun in the summer, and about 6-7 in the fall. I wanted four, but there is this little thing called a homeowners association ....
c_lulu: your list is similar to mine. The green beans, broccoli and squash top our list right now. Right now, I have a layer of topsoil and a layer of texas dirt. They are stil too well defined (I go there and the topsoil is dust, and the clay is wet). So I have to get in there at least two or three more times and till, so that I get a good water holding mix.
I'm not going to go crazy this fall (I have quite a bit of square footage). Just enough to get some gardner's pride going.
Let's hear about tomatoes? Anyone? Pros, Cons, type?
Thanks
W J
I would add some peat moss to the mix and throw it all together.
renatelynne
what would you get from the peat moss? Are you concerned with pH?
no. peat moss makes clay soil more friable (loose) and it makes sandy soil hold water better.
In my above ground beds, I mix compost, top soil and peat moss. So far all my veggies LOVE it.
excellent. This mix I used is called the clay-buster, or a "specialty" soil from livingearth.net. It, so far, when it touches clay seems to wick moisture from it a bit, helping the clay crumble, and keeping the soil moist.
it is a combo of lava sand compost and a few other things that elude me momentarily. I have to get in there and mix it up more, as it is just baking in the sun without the benefit of the clay.
as an avid clay hater, I feel that this mix helps me get the most of the moisture that the clay locks in. that is, when I get it mixed properly (that's Thursday a.m. for me, as that is when the clay will be the dryest and not clog the tines on the tiller).
one day a week for my watering and that is friday.
thanks
w j
I know what you are talking about... yea that should help with the clay... but if it is still a bit glumpy try a bit of peat moss. You would be supprised at the difference in the crumbability (is that a word?) *g
I have a strand of pure clay running underneath one area of my garden. We had to put in french drains for when it rains since it just sat on the top and stagnated. It still stays pretty moist there but I planted plants that like a bit more moisture.
I'm restricted to 250 gallons a water a day here so I water almost everything with drip irrigation i have forgotten what a green lawn looks like but my plants and garden do just fine (at least the deer seem to think so) the expense of a drip system is nominal at home dopot and well worth the effort I say plant away my tomatoes are the only thing the deer left and they are doing fine on less than 1/2 half a gallon a day each. Seems the one flaw in a deer fence is you cant forget to close the gate
*giggle no... have to close the gate. I was going to invest in a drip system but it wouldn't do me any good. The stupid rules where I am say I can't use any automated system. I have to be HOLDING the hose to water anything.
Okay Okay ... deer and gate banter aside :) :)
I have a 18X23 foot garden. I am already overfilled with the soil combo, so adding peat will have to constitute a bit of trickery.
(1) How much peat?
We have the following seeds:
swiss chard, straightneck squash, carrots, spinach, zucchini, walla sweet onioins, evergreen bunching onions, stringless contender beans, sugar pod peas, moss curled parsely.
(2) What should I plant?
All these ... and more!! Inquiring minds wanna know !!!!
Thanks
W J
you could always wait until next year when the compost compacts and you don't have FULL beds..
plant what you like the best. "I" would plant squash, tomatoes, onions, beans.. but that's ME.
Chard I have no experience with.Plant squash.beans are about a50/50 proposition (I always plant them) onions,peas,carrots,plant in the next couple of weeks hope for the best. Fall gardening for me at least is a hit and miss proposition.As with all gardening I recommend planting and seeing what happens until you are comfortable with your own results never sit back and wait ,you only get so many growing seasons in a lifetime (so to speak)
Just my opinion
This message was edited Jul 31, 2006 7:21 PM
It may be a bit of a stretch,But use a manual timer and hold the hose while you water.
This message was edited Jul 31, 2006 7:25 PM
Chard and Kale are biennials and will give green to pick for two seasons.
They are also extremely nutritious.
Josephine,
Most water restrictions allow soaker hoses, they aren't automated. Worth checking into.
Soaker hoses I have. And I use them. Sometimes, a bit tricky, though, because Frisco edits its stage three restrictions to read "soaker hoses exempt for foundations".
Technically, I can use them, but if someone see's them trapsed through my beds (thirty feet from the house in a stone wall segregated veggie bed) it's that man in the van with a big metal tool. We have a strict bitty committee (the individuals who are on the HOA sub-committee that drive around with digital cameras all day).
I desire not to have my water cut off.
I shall hand water for now.
W Jones
I specificaly asked if I could use soaker hoses and she said NO. If my hand isn't on the hose that the water is coming out of I can't use it. PERIOD . :(
That's pretty severe. I feel sorry for the elderly that can't stand for long, or endure the heat.
