Where I grew up on southern Calif my grandfather had clivia planted in the ground; I loved them even as a kid. Have one growing in a pot for a few years and noticed that it growing a new plant/offset. I ignored that but now notice a 3rd- when is the best time to divide clivia?
Clivia question
April--I saw a post about those somewhere--maybe the photo forum?
Deb
Looked but did not see. Maybe if I am lucky someone will give me an answer before I have to read that book by McQueen- isn't she the Gulf Coast bulb expert?
Let me see if I can find it. I can't seem to find it right now--I did look in the Bulb & Plant Mart handbook--not there. I don't think I have anymore bulb books and its not in PassAlong Plants. A mystery to solve....
This message was edited Jul 24, 2006 3:50 PM
A, don't know the answer, but I have a Clivia in a pot and has never bloomed. I was thinking of potting her outside, but I don't want to lose her in the winter. Why isn't yours outside? Not sure where Missouri City is, thought it was in Missouri heehee
Debbie I will have to borrow the book from my daughter.
Fly you big goof! You can plant it in the ground here. My daughter does and so do others in the Missouri City area- I have mine in a pot because I like it that way. Actually have one that I bought a long time ago, it's very small and in 4 years has grown very little. I decided to repot it this year and low and behold it has grown some- however, that being said, they DO like to be pot bound. The larger one has bloomed for the past 2 years- they do like to be fertilized, don't like to be overwatered, like the shade. Fly maybe you are just lucky in love and unlucky in Clivia.
Clivia are very tropical - they can't take frost at all. They also can't take direct sunlight.
They can take five or more years before they flower if grown from seed - but it really is worth the wait! You can find out all about them here http://www.clivias.com/
Thank you! All of my questions answered & a source for seed!
THX
April, Will you translate that site for me?
Sure CeeJay, it says, oh wait, if I tell you I'd have to kill you.
LOL.
Anything specific that you'd like to know?
Well, I have four babies coming off the Clivia, and I guess I should remove them and pot them. Right?
But do how I them do?
aprilwillis, here are some links with various information about dividing clivia offsets. The best time to divide them is in the late spring or early summer after they have flowered and usually after they have become over-crowded. But, I have read that you can divide them at any time except during winter. It is best to wait until the offset is a year or two old because the larger the division, the higher your success rate. However, when an individual offset has developed three or four leaves of its own it can be cut from the mother plant. I have not been brave enough to divde mine which now has many offsets that are now about as tall as the mother plant.
http://www.americancliviasociety.org/Article-8.html
http://www.seacoastonline.com/2003news/exeter/08262003/news/46976.htm
http://www.shieldsgardens.com/info/DividingClivia.html
fly_girl, I have had a 'Morris Orange' clivia growing in a container for many years. It took several years before it bloomed and before it developed offsets. I move it inside during freezes and set it back outside during cold, but nonfreezing temperatures. Sometimes I just cover it with a frost cloth. It requires a period of cold temperatures so it will undergo dormancy in order to bloom. Do not water much during the fall and winter months. I seldom water it at all during October, November, December and the first part of January unless it looks like it is wilting some. About the middle of January, I fertilize it once with a 20-20-20 liquid fertilizer or similar product .I fertilize it again in the middle of February and March. At the end of February, I start watering it more often. I do not fertilize it again although it some people suggest that it be fertilized every month during the growing season. Begin watering regularly in February. When my plant first bloomed, the blooms were deep inside of the plant. They should stand up above the plant. Mine was in total shade and not receiving enough light. When my neighbor chopped down his oak tree next door, it was still in shade, but received more light, I provided a rest period where I didn't water them imuch in the fall and winter and left them outside unless it was freezing, the blooms appeared as they are supposed to do. When the blooms start to appear, be sure to water regularly permitting the soil to dry between waterings. If watered too much and/or the soil is not well drained, it can develop root rot.
Thanks for more info HTOP! My Clivia- the large one w/ the 2 offsets blooms but the blooms don't open above the plant- as you described. I am guessing it's a lot issue as well Thanks.
CeeJay I am going to remove only the largest of the 2 offsets at this time. Can't recall the name of the bulb lady, I think her last name is McQueen, any way she suggested that if you have several pots you start fertilizing one 2 weeks after the other, that way when one blooms the other is not yet in bloom. I'd like to try that so that is my plan.
Excellent links HTOP. Thanks again.
This message was edited Jul 25, 2006 9:21 AM
I have good luck with clivia in the North Houston area, in containers, they love to be root bound, and in the ground under big trees, where the drainage is the best.
Yes those that I have seen in the ground in this part of town are also under trees.
One of the links that HTOP sent a link to was an article which included the comment that the author had read not to repot until the pot cracks. I have read the same- not sure I'd let them go that far, but clearly you could and that makes them a nice plant for those of us to lazy to repot on a regular basis.
Clivia bloom best when they experience a dry chilling (55-40)period of about two months in the fall/winter.
BTW I have about a dozen extra clivia seedlings and some pups if anyone around here is interested.
This message was edited Jul 25, 2006 5:40 PM
Well, thanks to all for the help here, too. I almost lost my Clivia two years ago - started rotting where the leaves all stack up in that basal fan. Actually had to pull a lot of leaves out. Rotted in the very middle where the flowers come up too. Had to pull some of that stuff out too. Even though I'd had it probably 8 or 9 years, and it had been blooming for me.... I think I made the mistake of misting it. I don't understand how they can be out in the rain if misting them is harmful! Anyway, repotted and have been ultra careful about not overwatering. I've had to trim a lot of the leaf tips, and there are still the signs of rotting where the leaves stack up, but it is dry now - just brown crispy edges there. Other than the "battle scars" it seems quite healthy and has several nice-sized offsets. But hey, if I can just leave them on there, I am quite willing to do that.
Advice, please, about thinning clivia thriving under a tree in Southern California. How much do I thin it? before winter (I believe one letter indicated)? what is suggested fertilization (is 20-20-20 also good for plants in the ground?), etc. These are the usual red-orange color. Not touching the yellow ones until there are a lot more. Will check the cites given as well.