Don...the plot thickens! My first bloom got too heavy and broke the trunk. I let ti stay on the tree for a couple of days till I saw taht it was going to cause the top of the tree to die (it wasn't completely broken, so I wasn't sure till the leaves started dying). So, I went ahead and cut the bunch and brought them in. You know how I said that the fruit had three sides? Well, some of them ahve three sides and some have four sides. It appears that the fryuit on the end of each hand has three sides while the center fruit of each hand have four sides.The closer the fruit is the the end of the hand, the smaller the fourth side is...so those in the very middle of the hand are symmetrical. So, obviously, they are not Orinoco as we had thought. Darn, I was looking forward to taht strawberry flavored nanner.... Anyway, I went ahead and hung the bunch in the closet to ripen....some of them are very well filled out so hopefully at least the more mature fruit will be edible. Anyway, here is a picture of the fruit. The first real close up I have been able to get because they were so high up and I don't have a telephoto lens. You can see the size and shape of the fruit...so maybe we can get an ID on them (I hope)!
Tropicman!
A pic of the third bloom. This one was weird because it should not have bloomed for another two years. It just put up pups this year and the trunk is not strong enough to hold the bloom...much less full fledged fruit. OTOH, the tree is short enough that I am able to tie it to the front porch post so it isn't breaking the trunk anymore. As soon as the bloom got heavy enough to bend the stalk, the tree started to buckle under the weight and I tied it up. Anyway, notice how this one only has two hands on it...and is already only producing sterile flowers at this point.
the purple looking fruit is called the banana 'heart' in the orient. anyway, the heart produces all the hands of the banana. u figure how much more banana hand u wish to come out of the whole trunk of banana fruit, then cut off the heart. the longer u keep the heart, the hands comes far apart and produce odd looking hands, not tight and close together.
the reason why pups are appearing is because once u harvest the banana hands, u are suppose to cut off the whole mother plant to the ground... in order for the pups to grow.
in the orient, most parts of the banana is edible or useful in cooking. it is just a matter of knowing which part to use.
of course i am not tropicman, but i grew up in the orient. banana trees and other tropical plants are a major part of our life. hth... ma vie
ps as u can see the last photo tells me the heart should have been taken off a long time ago. it just goes to prove of what i just said above. i speaking of the 4th photo. normally, u are suppose to take a piece of wood to support the banana trunk, only until u see some ripening of the banana. chop off the whole banana trunk, chop of the whole mother plant.
One of the banana farms that I have been talking to told me that these bananas normally produce pups two years before they produce fruit....which is contrary to everything I have read, but is in line with what I have been finding to be true with my trees. Most info on bananas says that they will produce pups after they fruit and the tree dies...but with my trees, and obviously with the nanners that the nanner farm has, they produce the pups when the trees are young adults, then they fruit after they have gone two winters and not gone dormant after they have pupped. The other two trees that produced fruit this year, had already produced pups, some of which are four feet tall. This is the only tree that produced pups and fruit in the same year...and it is too young to produce fruit...it is about 4-6 feet shorter than the other trees producing fruit. Perhaps, it varies from one variety to another as to when they pup and fruit, I just know that this is what my trees have been doing (with the exception of this one tree) and what the banana nursery told me. I contacted them because everything I had read said that trees pup after the trunk dies...and that conflicted with my own experience and left me very confused. But, perhaps I have been misunderstanding what I have read...and what you are trying to tell me. Perhaps they all produce pups a year or two prior to fruiting, but the pups don't really start maturing till the 'mother' dies, which forces the pups to create their own independent root system?
Also, with these bananas, they produce however many fruit they are going to produce, then the heart starts producing sterile flowers, According to my research, this is normal...some of the blooms are sterile male flowers, others are sterile female flowers (having only partially formed ovaries, or what have you). They also told me that leaving the heart on does not affect the fruit or the tree. Although I definitely see what you mean about how the closer the fruit are to the heart, the less formed they are. But it would be hard to know when to cut the heart off to prevent this as is seen in the case of my three blooms this year where the last tree only produced one viable hand and a partial second hand. OTOH, if you leave the heart on, the hummingbirds go crazy over the nectar and it really doesn't affect the tree or the viable fruit.
I thought the reason that my second bloom produced fewer fruit than the first was due to the heat and drought. I water them heavily, but watering won't make up for drought...no matter what you do. However this third bloom has even fewer fruit in it. It only produced one full hand and a partial hand before it began producing sterile flowers. I don't know if this is because of the heat and drought conditions, or if it is because this tree is so young...or perhaps a combination of the two? It actually works out for the best since the tree is not strong enough to hold the fruit it has...much less a large bunch like the first tree produced....or even a slightly smaller bunch like the second tree produced.
Unfortunately, I can't stake my trees with wood the way it is normally done. The trees are 12-15 feet tall and it would be difficult to get stakes to hold them up in this soil. Plus, I am disabled and unable to engange in manual labor to that extent. And finally, it doesn't help that we get some pretty heavy rain and high winds from tropical weather, so the wood stakes would have to be sunk in the ground 3 feet or so to keep them upright during storms. Fortunately, this one tree that is blooming so young is a good height for me to use muslin to tie the tree to the post that supports the front porch. It isn't ideal, but is better than nothing. The other tree that is fruiting is doing pretty well so far (knock on wood). Even though it bloomed AFTER the first bloom, the fruit are filling out faster than the first bunch. I suspect that is because this bunch gets more sun than the first bunch did. The tree has a really large trunk and fewer fruit, and it seems to be handling the weight of the fruit well.
Anyway, I have cut down most of the first tree (the one that broke). I still have some of it that I need to cut down, but I over did it cutting the first 2/3 of the tree down, so now I have to wait till my body recovers from the labor before I can finish what I started.
I'm curious as to how you cook the rest of the tree parts. I noticed while making mulch from the first tree that the heart of the stalk resembles water chestnuts, while the stalks that surround it resemble celery. I was thinking that if they were edible, they would be great in stir fry. Is that how they are used in the Orient? I'd love to have some recipes if you have any.
Thanks so much for you input. I learned quite a bit from you. I am still trying to find out what kind of musa these trees are....which is why I started the thread in the first place. Before teh stalk broke, I couldn't see the fruit very well...even with a six foot ladder....and it appeared that the fruit were three sided, so we thoguth they were Orinoco. However, now that I can examine the fruit up lcose, I see that they some fo the fruit have four sides, while those on the ends of each hadn have three sides. The trees were here when I bought the house and I have no way to contact the previous owners. Even if I could contact them, they probably wouldn't know.
i would venture into saying that u have is a Saba variety of banana - the most commonly grown in the US. here are some links that may help u identify what u got there http://www.crfg.org/pubs/ff/banana.html , http://www.banana-tree.com/catalog~category~17.cfm . http://www.alohatropicals.com/musaf.html
here is another link that give u different ways on how to fix/cook banana. http://yummybanana.webgoonies.com/miscellaneous/
as English is my 2nd language, there are times that i have difficulty explaining, the very reason why i normally would do research and recommend the best sites i could find... so as not to forget some minute detail that are often missed.
Well I think you got it down pat now,a tree will grow quite a while,and start to pup,after a few months,it can flower at anytime,my understanding is it has to produce so many leaves before it will flower,and the last leaf will be the flag leaf,I read it will produce 36 to 43 leaves first before the flag leaf,stressing a plant out may make it flower earlier,but without the sufficent amount of leaves,the fruit maynot fill out properly.
You might just have a plaintain banana,you'll know more when it ripens and you taste it.
My understanding,most commerical growers are using a dwarf vareity now,so they don't have the trunk breaking from overloading of fruit.
I know the chiquita banana peeling is a lot thinner than the Dole banana and the Delmonte banana,also I think the banana with the most rag taste sweeter to me.
Lately the bananas in the store are very ripe,and the shelf life isn't very long anymore when you get them home.
Keep in contact,would like to hear your comments on them when there ripe and ready for tasting!!!
As you can see from the photo, I have the one bunch ripening in the closet...nice and cool and dark, as suggested. The second bunch is filling out nicely on the tree.....and so far, no signs of the tree breaking or buckling under the weight. And, I've got the third bunch braced by tying it to the front porch strut. LOL! We do what we can....
I imagine that this extreme heat/drought is what stressed the trees to make smaller bunches. It seems like the hotter it gets, the less fruit the trees make. The fruit do seem to be shorter and fatter than the standard plantains that you see in stores. I wish there were an easy way to ID them. There are a lot of people in the area growing nanners...but most of the trees I've seen are a lot shorter than mine are...but taht might just be because mine have taht great microenvironment. Anyway, my confidence level in the local nurseries and Master Gardeners is not very high, so I doubt if either one could help me.
On one occassion a Master Gardener could not ID a vareigated hydrangea and on another occasion a Master Gardener didn't know what a Peruvian Daffodil was. The local nurseries don't seem to know much of anything either...except what is printed on the tags. I don't know...perhaps the county ag extension or the botanical gardens might be able to help me ID the nanners....
Don...I can't beleive this...I've got a fourth tree putting up a flag leaf. After these foru dye, I'll only have ten trees of varying matruity...but I'll have 14-16 pups of varying size. Have you ever heard of such a small grove blooming so much? I'm thinking that the ultra mild winter we ahd this year might ahve something to do with it...that and the fact that they wre neglected for over a year and I have been babying them....
Marcie, can you make the pic bigger. When you click on it, it is very small.
I wish I could....that is the best I can get it. Till I get a better camera I'm just not going to be able to get decnet pics of the hummers. I was able to see them fairly close up while working under the naners yesterday and was able to see taht the backs of the hummers are a sort of iridescent green. I need to find what I did with the book of birds that Dad gave me so I can ID them. But I can't for the life of me figure out where I put it....I know I kept it....it is not something I would have thrown away...frist, Dad gave it to me...second, he gave it to me so that I could paint birds. Well, when I get to feeling better, I'll go through all my art bins and see if it is in one of them....or if it is in the box of personal momentos.
Those are some nice bananas you got there, Bama Belle.....
I've got a few banana projects of my own, namely 4 Basjoo hardy bananas, and a Chinese Yellow banana.... The basjoos are guaranteed to die down to the ground every year, so I know I won't be getting any fruit off of them (not that I'd WANT to, with how seedy and stringy Basjoo bananas are), but with a little luck, and a LOT of leaf mulch, I'm hoping to get a flower off of my Yellow banana.
Do you have a green house or someplace warm to overwinter it? I the Chinese Yellow are anything like most musa, they have to have two years where they do not go dormant in order to flower.
No, I don't have a greenhouse.... According to Tony Avent of Pland Delights Nursery, all you need to do for yellow bananas is to keep the trunk from dying back to the ground for them to flower..... The yellow bananas are from the Tibetan region, after all, and very hardy (almost as hardy as the Basjoo bananas).
Sre they edible? I might need one of those...
Not unless you like a LOT of seeds in your hard, tiny bananas..... The Yellow Lotus banana (Musella lasiocarpa) is primarily grown for its flowers (by western gardeners and Tibetean buddhists, who consider the plant sacred), and as livestock food in N. Thailand and SE China (the vegetable matter, that is, not the flowers or fruit).
It is a beautiful flower! Too bad it doesn't make edible fruit.
