Favorite Suggestions for Plants that Tolerate Clay Soil?

Houston, United States(Zone 9b)

The author on this link says:

Quoting:
Certainly, plants that need a well drained soil are not going to be happy growing in clay. Don't give up. There are plants that not only tolerate clay soil, many will also help break up and improve its texture.


http://gardening.about.com/od/gardendesign/a/ClayPlants.htm

I saw a BH&G magazine at HD but didn't buy it...it did have a 2 whole pages of recommendations for flowers that won't need the clay soil amended a whole lot or at all. I do remember one of them was daylilies.
Can you recommend your favorite plants?

Deep East Texas, TX(Zone 8a)

Can't wait for some suggestions...

Houston, TX(Zone 9a)

These are my toughest plants that tolerate poor soil, have no pest problems and require little care of any kind. Most get a handful of ozmacote once or twice a year and that's it. Glossy abelia, american beautyberry, plumbago, oleander, turk's cap, daylilies, crepe myrtles, confederate jasmine, duranta, esperanza, pentas, mexican bird of paradise shrub, cannas, crinum and louisiana iris. I also have excellent luck with knockout roses and vitex planted in unamended clay soil, but in well draining locations. The roses have really surprised me. When I put them in, they were under some crepe myrtles that were here when we bought the house. The bed under the crepes was empty, but full of roots. We just dug and planted. The roses were doing O.K., but the crepes were a variety that had fungal problems all the time, so we removed them a couple of months ago. The roses are now flourishing. Here's a link for picture of the roses and I've attached one of the Princess Di canna.

http://davesgarden.com/pics/crowellli_1152974118_834_tn.jpg

Thumbnail by crowellli
west Houston, TX(Zone 9a)

Everything at my house grows in clay.

Houston, United States(Zone 9b)

Crow: Great suggestions!

Bastrop, TX(Zone 8b)

I have heavy clay and am in a low spot, so parts of the yard hold lots of water in the winter; most springs I don't have to start watering until late May, no matter how dry it is. Things that don't like wet feet in the winter expire quickly here.

Here are things that have survived:

Roses: After wet winters, some tend to have black spot in the spring in the area that holds the most water. Roses that are blackspot prone, like Bourbons, have gotten moved to other areas of the yard.

Salvias: S. "Indigo Spires" does well, but needs extra water in the summer. I have it in shade and sun. One that I had in lots of shade bloomed well, but just died one summer. The others have done fine. S. farinacea does really well, blooming from spring to fall, and has reseeded itself a few times. S. coccinea does well in shade, and reseeds itself all over, though it hasn't moved outside the shady area where I originally planted it. S. guaranitica, the light blue one (Argentine Skies?) has done well and spread by underground runners. The dark blue one, which is really nice, died; I finally quit rooting cuttings because it invariably died in early spring, after the winter rains. S. uliginosa, bog sage, does really well, taking wet feet in winter and surviving droughty conditions both. S. luecantha, Mexican bush sage, does fine as long as the drainage is good. S. darcyi does well and spreads by underground runners; it's a really nice shade of scarlet. S. greggii and S. microphylla have done well for me, but I am careful to put them in more sun than shade and to put them where drainage is as good as it gets in my yard. S. mexicana and S. madrensis have to be carefully sited, with excellent winter drainage to make it here. The bicolor sage, whose Latin name I've forgotten, S. regla, S. iodantha, S. karwinski, S. jamensis, and all the S. greggii and S. microphylla crosses that are bicolor or are purplish have died here; they don't like winter rain.

Natives: These all do well in my clay soil: American beautyberry, Mexican buckeye, red buckeye, coralberry, Carolina buckthorn, native passionvine, Carolina jessamine, yaupon, possumhaw, Gulf muhly, Lindheimer's muhly, verbena hastata, rough-leafed dogwood, anachaco orchid tree, kidneywood, salvia ballotaeflora, salvia engelmannii, lantana horrida if given good drainage, redbud, Texas redbud, Mexican plum, thicketing plum, coralbean, coastal live oak, liatris if given good drainage, aromatic sumac, prairie flame-leafed sumac, beebrush, wax myrtle, cherry laurel, rusty blackhaw viburnum, native honeysuckle bush and vine, both, desert willow, zexmenia, and turk's cap. Surprisingly, evergreen sumac has done well. That one is supposed to be sensitive to overwatering, and I thought for sure I'd lose it the year we got 50" of rain. It is in a part of the yard that drains better, so maybe that helped. Agarita is barely surviving. I just potted it up, as it looked like it was drowning in the bed where I have it. If it lives, I will move it to a better draining bed. Maximillian sunflowers get really big and floppy here when there's lots of rain. I do not water them much during droughts, maybe once or twice a summer. Otherwise, they are floppy. Natives that I wish didn't do so well here: poison ivy, peppervine, wild grapes, grass burrs, widow's tears (dayflower), dewberries. Flame acanthus has struggled with the clay soil, but not expired yet. Lindheimer's senna died a slow death; it just couldn't take the wet winter/clay soil combination. Mexican bird of paradise died to the ground in the year that we got 50 inches of rain, but resprouted from the base and is still alive.

Other things that have done well: leatherleaf mahonia, a very slow grower, some type of low, gray cotoneaster, Mexican oregano, Mexican honeysuckle, gold lantana, lantana camera, pomegranate, dwarf pomegranate, flowering quince, nandina, some type of small holly, and spirea.





Houston, United States(Zone 9b)

Bull,

I had a blue sage myself....2 of them actually, one has slowly turned from green to gray foliage and DIED! I am so sad. And have no idea what the problem was. The other is planted next to it? The red sage is doing well, growing profusely and her now heavy wooden stems make her lean and show bare spots, is staking the only solution to this?

San Antonio, TX(Zone 8b)

wow bullnettle! Thanks for that wonderful inventory. That list is a huge help for those of us folks growing only natives...I've got some of those mentioned....and will keep an eye out for the others...thanks again... :)

Nothing but rock and clay soil here too at the foot of the hill country...

Spring, TX

When I first started gardening in clay soil, I killed almost everything that I planted. Now, I can grow anything. I started with a 10x5 foot bed, placing river rocks around the edge, added three inches of good rose soil and three inches of cedar mulch. The first spring I planted clover and added earthworms. That fall I mowed it all down and covered it with three inches of newspaper (cardboard works too) and added 2 inches of rose soil and two inches of mulch. Every year I rolled out the rocks and made the bed bigger by adding good soil and mulch.

Sometimes just planting clover and then tilling it in before it seeds works well too.

Cover crops are great for improving the soil.

Aerating Compacted Soil- If you have clay soil, then you know how difficult it can be to loosen it. Why not let a cover crop do the work for you? ...

http://www.territorial-seed.com/stores/1/April_2001_W132C449.cfm

Frisco, TX(Zone 8a)

I wanted to plant some of my favorites from Austin in my new garden that has lots of clay. Two of them were agarita and leatherleaf mahonia. One of the agaritas is really struggling and the mahonia has slightly yellow leaves.They grew so well in Austin so I'm not sure if it is the clay soil, the rain we've received or what. The agarita will be allowed some more time, but my husband is already talking about replacing the mahonia because it is in a high visibility area.
Things that have done really well for me this year are esparanza,knockout roses,society garlic,profusion zinnias,georgia savory,rosemary(in raised beds)
I have several salvias planted that are still very young, so we'll see how they progress. but so far they are my favorite "group" of plants. i don't think I've seen one I didn't want! Now if i can just keep all the names straight!!nancy

Missouri City, TX(Zone 9a)

I am cutting and pasting- don't recall where I got this info from but here it is-

Low to med. perennials for clay soil:

Ajuga reptan ‘Multicolor’
Aquilegia vulgaris ‘Nora Barlow’
Aster frikartii ‘Monch’
Bergenia crassifolia
Campanula takesimana
Hemerocallis ‘Stella de Oro’
Hosta ‘June’
Lamium orvala
Paeonia ‘Laura Dessert’
Prunella grandiflora ‘Loveliness’ Self-Heal
Ranunculus aconitifolius ‘Flore Pleno’
Rudbeckia fulgida var. sullivantii

Medium to tall perennials for clay soil:

Aconitum cammarum ‘Bicolor’
Anemone hybrida
Aruncus dioicus
Aster novae-angliae
Campanula lactiflora
Centaurea macrocephala
Cimicifuga simplex ‘Scimitar’
Delphinium ‘Emily Hawkins’
Eupatorium purpureum
Helenium autumnale
Helianthus ‘Capenoch Star’, salicifolius
Heliopsis helianthoides, scabra
Persicaria amplexicaulis ‘Firetail’
Rodgersia aesculifolia
Solidago

and from some other source-
Plants that love clay soil:

A
Acer
Achillea
Alcea rosea
Alnus
Amelanchier
Aquilegia
Aster
Aucuba

B
Berberis
Betula
Buddleia
Buxus

C
Calamagrostis
Callicarpa
Campanula
Carex
Carpinus betulus
Catalpa bignonioides
Cercis canandensis
Cerastium tomentosum
Chaenomeles
Chrysanthemum x superbum
Clematis
Cornus
Cotinus coggygria
Cotoneaster
Crataegus

D
Digitalis

E
Elaeagnus
Euonymus fortunei

F to H
Forsythia

I to K
Iberis

L
Ligustrum vulgare
Lychnis coronaria

M to N
Malus

O
Osmanthus heterophyllus

P to Q
Parthenocissus
Photinia fraseri
Phyllostachys
Potentilla
Prunus
Pyracantha

R
Rhus typhinia
Robinia pseudoacacia
Rosa

S
Spirea
Symphoricarpos

T to U
Taxus

V
Viburnum
Vinca

W to Z
Wisteria


And yet another source:

Hardy Plants for Clay-based Soils:
Purple Cone Flower
Shasta daisies
Russian Sage
Rue
Lavender
Coreopsis
Black Eye Susans


and another source:

§ When more than one zone is listed (e.g.: 3-4 or 4-5), some species are not hardy in the cooler zone
* particularly well-suited to clay soil
SHRUBS
Scientific name Common name USDA zone Comments

Amelanchier species Serviceberry 4
*Aronia melanocarpa Chokeberry 3
Berberis koreana Korean barberry 4 Avoid wet soils
Berberis thunbergii Green barberry 4 Avoid wet soils

*Caragana arborescens
Siberian peashrub 3

*Cephalanthus occidentalis Buttonbush 4
*Cornus alba Tatarian dogwood 3
Cornus alternifolia Pagoda dogwood 4 Needs moist, acidic soils
*Cornus racemosa Grey dogwood 3
*Cornus sericea Red osier dogwood 3

Diervilla lonicera
Dwarf bush-honeysuckle 3

*Elaeagnus angustifolia Russian olive 2
*Elaeagnus commutata Silverberry 2
Euonymus alatus Burning bush 3 Needs well-drained soils

Euonymus europaeus
European euonymus 4 Needs well-drained soils

*Forsythia x 'Meadowlark'
'Meadowlark' forsythia 3
*Forsythia x 'Northern Sun'
'Northern Sun' forsythia 3
Hamamelis virginiana Witch hazel 4
Ilex verticillata Winterberry 4 Needs acidic soils
Juniperus species (most) Juniper 3 Needs well-drained soils
*Lonicera species Honeysuckle 3-4 §

*Physocarpus opulifolius
Common ninebark 2

*Potentilla Fruticosa Potentilla 2
*Rhamnus frangula Glossy buckthorn 4
Rhus species Sumac 2 Prefers well-drained soils
*Ribes alpinum Alpine currant 2
*Ribes odoratum Clove currant 2
Rosa rugosa Rugosa rose 2
*Salix species Willow 2

Sambucus canadensis
American elderberry 3

Sambucus pubens Scarlet elder 4
Spiraea species Spirea 3-4 § Needs well-drained soils

*Symphoricarpos albus
White snowberry 3

*Syringa species Lilac 2
*Thuja occidentalis
Arborvitae, white cedar 3
*Viburnum dentatum
Arrowwood viburnum 3 Prefers well-drained soils
*Viburnum lentago
Nannyberry viburnum 2
*Viburnum opulus
European cranberrybush 3

*Viburnum sargentii Sargent viburnum 4

*Viburnum trilobum
Highbush cranberrybush 2

Bastrop, TX(Zone 8b)

Tir_Na_Nog:

The red sage, salvia greggii, gets woody. To control that, in early spring or late winter, every second or third year, I prune it real hard, cutting off at least half the plant. That generally makes it sprout new stems from the woody portion. If there's a late freeze, the new growth dies, and you've got an issue. I usually root s. greggii cuttings in the fall before I plan to prune, so if something goes wrong, like a late freeze or over-pruning, I have a small, but viable replacement.

Houston, United States(Zone 9b)

Bull,

thanks for the tips on that sage! she will thank you to!

April,

LOVED your post! That will help many of us!

Austin, TX(Zone 8b)

butterflybyrob-- very interesting reading there. Iam convinced. thanks for the link and helpful info.

Deep East Texas, TX(Zone 8a)

butterfly ~ I had read to plant hairy vetch and mow. Then plant right thru the vetch. This is supposed to improve the soil and provide mulch. I am just not sure about unleashing hairy vetch ~ am not sure how invasive?

Spring, TX

I have used vetch on vacant lots, didn't come back after I mowed, I think it likes cool weather

Frisco, TX(Zone 7b)

WOW!

This is an impressive list. I did a "Find" search for my favorite clay-lover, and didn't see it. The red yucca (Hesperaloe). You can plant that baby in bedrock and it'll grow. I have them in my front yard (facing south) in clay with water restrictions here just north of Dallas. Now granted, they won't get six feet tall shoots, but they are still doing well.

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