Snapped-off stem: tuberous begonia

Ottawa, ON(Zone 5a)

I've had several stems of my tuberous begonias break at the base from wind, transplanting, etc. Is there anything I can do to get the tuber to start a new shoot, or root the stem I'm left with? Can I prevent or minimize wind damage by setting the plant deeper when transplanting, or will the stem rot?

San Jose, CA(Zone 9a)

I don't have Stevens book in front of me but I think he says if the stem breaks it's probably done for because now there is a place for rot to easily take hold. You can probably root the stem but it has to be done immediately.

Are these large flowered varieties (>6" diameter)? Because those types generally have to be staked. On the other hand I have non-stops bedded and I have not lost any stems at the base.

You may want to pick up Mike Stevens book. I got mine for a $1.50 or so on Amazon used. He covers propagation, staking etc. in great detail.

San Jose, CA(Zone 9a)

Also as you probably know you have to be exceedingly careful when transplanting. You have to resist the urge to pull on the stem to get the plant out of the pot at all costs.

What blows me away is that these plants have a front and a back. Is there any other plant that has a front/back?

Why would it evolve this way?

Powder Springs, GA(Zone 7b)


It has been decades since I rooted a tuberous stem. It is true that they are very susceptible to rot but they can be rooted and can form a small tuber in the process as well. First you should cut the stem with a sterile razor and treat the cut end with a fungicide and/or a rooting hormone. Let it callous for a day or two. To prevent moisture loss in the leaves you can enclose the top in a plastic bag and twist tie or rubber band the bag around the stems. Let the cut ends exposed to the air. Once calloused, put the cut ends in moist perlite (not standing water!) and hope for the best but expect the worst.

Not sure what you mean by a front/back. And because the stem is attached to the tuber, you shouldn't be pulling it out of the pot by the stem (most plants should be handled by the leaves and not the stem anyway). Squeeze the pot to loosen the bond between the soil and roots with the pot and spread your fingers in a V shape around the stem and tip the pot upside down. Hopefully the plant and root ball will slide right out.



Butch

Chicago, IL(Zone 5b)

OK, Gang.....

I just had my DH + a neighbor put up a pergola to protest some things including a couple of Rexs'.....One was trampled, flattened, squished..etc.

What are the chances of it coming to life?

Hap

San Jose, CA(Zone 9a)

I meant that tuberous begonias have a definite front and back (referring to large flowered standards and non-stops). It's obvious even at an early stage. The leaves point in one direction (actually usually within about 270 deg) and the flowers point in the same direction. In fact if you bed non-stop tubers you will end up having to pull some of them and re-position them when they leaves come out (assuming you care about which direction the flowers point).

I was just wondering why in the world they would evolve this way. Must be a reason.

Northern California, United States(Zone 9a)

reaching toward the light.

Powder Springs, GA(Zone 7b)

Maybe if they were in a pot and you rotated the pot every day or so, then it would be more balanced (true of a lot of plants). Mine are in a hanging basket and I've never really thought about it - just glad they are showing their backsides to the viewer.

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