Oriental Lilies

Riverview, NB(Zone 5b)

I don't remember who told me Oriental Lilies would be a great cut flower and sell them at my market, but who every you were, or whoever they were, I ordered quite a few and would like to get some information on how to plant them.

How far apart? How deep? Special needs?

I will be growing them in ProMixBX and cow manure. A 50/50 ratio. They will go in a 2 foot wide by 32 foot long by 1 foot deep box.

Can I expect to get more bulbs from each Lilie and plant the new ones next year? If so, about how many new bulbs do you think I might get from each Lilie? Maybe it takes a couple years for the new bulbs to grow large enough to produce a Lilie, I don't know.

Thanks.

Darrell

http://davesgarden.com/forums/t/536117/

I think this is the thread you were remembering, Darrell. Todd gives you some advice on growing lilies.

Riverview, NB(Zone 5b)

Thanks.

I went to that site and all the talk was about "Asiatics".

I spent all that money I had extra of on Orientals. I knew I shouldn't have messed with something I know nothing about. Darn it.

Riverview, NB(Zone 5b)

Vesey's had one that I ordered along with all the other ones but they were out of it. It was, "Miss Lucy". It was really something. It was a double lily, sort of ruffled like an orchid, and had no stamins. I can see why they ran out.

I've looked around at a couple other sites I know of and couldn't find it anywhere. I hope they have it again next year. I'm going to place the order for them the day I get the flyer in the mail.

Darrell, what kind of orientals did you buy? How much per bullb? They may be a better money maker, if you sold them as potted plants. Then you don't have to worry about growing over winter. Not that you couldn't. Just a thought.

Moose Jaw, SK(Zone 3b)

Where, When and How to Plant Your Lilies

Lily bulbs may be planted in spring or in the fall, usually from mid-September through mid-October. If you find hardy lilies growing in containers, you may add them to your garden throughout the growing season. When buying locally, select firm, plump bulbs with roots attached. Plant them as soon as possible. Bulbs never go completely dormant so they must not dry out before planting. Plant mail order bulbs as soon as possible, also.

Asiatic and Oriental lilies grow best in full sunlight. In Minnesota, they need six to eight hours of direct sunlight in order to perform well. They'll grow taller, more spindly, and floppier in reduced light. Martagon hybrids, a group of turk's-cap lilies, are prized for their ability to bloom well in shadier conditions.

For best effect, plant lilies in groups of three or five identical bulbs. Space them eight to twelve inches apart, keeping groups three to five feet apart, depending on the vigor and size of the lilies. Plant small lily bulbs two to four inches deep and large bulbs four to six inches deep, measuring from the top of the bulb. Divide and replant large clusters of bulbs every three years or so – or when it seems they are not blooming as well as originally.

Never plant lilies where standing water collects after heavy rainfall. Well-drained soil is an absolute must. Add lots of organic matter to clay soil to create a raised area with improved drainage. Incorporate organic matter into light, sandy soil also, to help hold onto nutrients and prevent it from drying too rapidly.

Before winter, mulch over newly planted bulbs with four to six inches of loose, weed-free compost, leaves, or wood chips. This delays soil freezing and allows roots to continue growing longer. Mulch also insulates the soil against fluctuating temperatures, delaying the emergence of frost-tender shoots in spring.

Hardy established lily bulbs don't need winter protection where good snow cover is dependable. Considering Minnesota's weather history, however, it's always safest to apply a winter mulch. Wait until some time in November when the ground begins to freeze, before spreading it.


Caring for Your Lilies

In spring, leave mulch in place until the danger of hard frost has passed. If lily shoots grow through the mulch, start to remove it gradually – but leave it nearby so you can cover them again if another hard frost is predicted.

Fertilize the soil each spring with a phosphorus-rich formula such as 5–10–10. Slow-release fertilizers work well. Always follow label instructions when applying fertilizer.

Lilies usually have few pests, but rabbits and slugs can be a menace to emerging shoots. Aphids – small sucking insects – can also cause problems for flower buds. Carefully wash the affected plants with water sprayed forcefully from your garden hose to remove aphids.

Botrytis blight, a fungal disease, causes reddish-brown leaf spots and is often the result of damp weather or evening watering. (When you water at night, the leaves often stay wet until the sun comes out and dries them the following morning, encouraging foliar diseases.) Whenever possible, water early in the day, or water at the base of the plant rather than over head. Adequate spacing between clusters of lilies also promotes good air circulation and may help prevent disease.

Deadhead flowers as they fade, by breaking them off carefully. That way, none of the plant's energy is “wasted” on seed production. Do not remove stems or foliage, though. They'll continue to put energy into the bulb as long as they remain green. Remove old foliage in late fall or early spring by cutting down the dead stalks.

For information about the North American Lily Society and the North Star Lily Society of Minnesota, or for help in locating a retail source for a specific lily cultivar or species, contact the Anderson Horticultural Library at the Minnesota Landscape Arboretum in Chaska, Minnesota, by calling (952) 443-1405.

http://www.extension.umn.edu/distribution/horticulture/DG1112.html

This message was edited Apr 5, 2006 8:40 AM

Riverview, NB(Zone 5b)

One too many I guess.

Here they are.

Brazilia

Thumbnail by DCarrington
Riverview, NB(Zone 5b)

Casa Blanca

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Riverview, NB(Zone 5b)

Mix 1

Thumbnail by DCarrington
Riverview, NB(Zone 5b)

Mix 2

Thumbnail by DCarrington
Riverview, NB(Zone 5b)

Mix 3

Thumbnail by DCarrington
Riverview, NB(Zone 5b)

Starfighter

Thumbnail by DCarrington
Riverview, NB(Zone 5b)

Stargazer

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Riverview, NB(Zone 5b)

Sorbonne

Thumbnail by DCarrington
Riverview, NB(Zone 5b)

Great information. Thank you very much.

Ottawa, ON(Zone 5a)

Just watch carefully for European Lily Beatle - a red beatle that eats the dickens out of the lilies. I've just about given up on lilies because of it. It's an import with few enemies. Look on the underside of the leaves for strings of eggs and crush them before they hatch.

Ann

Moose Jaw, SK(Zone 3b)

Glad to help......thought it would prolly explain the similarities between Asiatics and Orientals. I'd double check echoes link to Todd's suggestions too.

echoes idea of selling them in individual pots is an excellent suggestion as well. Some people would rather buy a blooming plant.

St. John's, NL(Zone 5b)

Lilies sold in individual pots or perhaps 3 to a pot is very popular at our local nurseries. I prefer them that way myself and I can make sure I pick a healthy plant. Bulbs in the bags are often too sprindly by the time it is safe to plant them out in Newfoundland. Either that, of they are showing signs of mold.

Looks like you same some winner there Darrell. As a cutflower, you should remove the stamens as soon as the flowers open ......they can really stain a flower once they drop the pollen.

The lily beetle is running amuck in NS. I know some gardeners there that no longer grow lilies or other lily-bulb relatives due to the damage. Thankfully we don't have them here but we have narcissus fly instead whose maggots eat the bulbs of daffs. I can only grow daffs as annuals as a result. Its a real shame as daffs are one of my fav. spring bulbs.

Riverview, NB(Zone 5b)

The idea of selling them in pots sound good, but I haven't got a clue how much to ask for a pot of 3.

The whole idea of getting them was so I could sell them as cut flowers and have more bulbs each year to make more money each year there after. Like the Glad bulbs I bought this year. They will produce more bulbs and I'll have more cut glads each year. By the way, I ordered 970 Glads. Ha ha ha ha ha

So, do I spray these beatles? How do I get rid of them?

Darrell

Ottawa, ON(Zone 5a)

The only way I know of getting rid of the beatles is to hand pick them and squash them or drop them into a jar of soapy water. Use gloves to get the larvae which chew away and then cover themselves in excrement. And keep a constant outlook for the eggs.

Ann

Riverview, NB(Zone 5b)

Thank you Ann. This sounds like a nightmare!

Ottawa, ON(Zone 5a)

You got it! That's why many of us have given up on lilies or nearly so. It will, be easier to control though if your lilies are not crowded to close to other plants. They will just be easier to reach. And I DO still have a few. Just nowhere near as many as I used to have.

Ann

Riverview, NB(Zone 5b)

I think I'll be wise by selling them 3 to a pot and getting rid of the lot.

Take the money and put it into something that will give me new bulbs or new plants for re-sale next year.

How much do you think is a fair price to ask for 3 plants per pot? And how big is the pot?

I've never grown Lilies before and have no clue how much room they would take up in a pot. I have a few 10" pots and a few 8" pots that are new I might be able to use.

St. John's, NL(Zone 5b)

I would think 3 to an 8" would be good. I think I've actually seen 3 in a 6" locally but they were the patio lilies, not orientals. As for cost, you have to factor in the cost of 3 bulbs, the pot, the soil and then yourself a mark-up...it may be pricey. maybe a single bulb per pot would be easier to sell. Asiatic lilies sell locally for 3.98 for a single potted bulb, Orientals are 5.95 each if that helps. Depending on how much you paid per bulb, you might need to charge $20 or more for a pot of 3.

Riverview, NB(Zone 5b)

Thank you Todd. Yes that helps a lot.

Although I don't have that many pots, I can get rid of most of the Orientals.

I wanted to put in 300 Daffodils this fall for next spring, out in front of the property in a large cluster, but maybe I'll wait on those. I don't know what the status is on the bug that eats the bulbs.

Maybe I'd be better off planting Tulips instead. We'll see.

(Zone 7b)

DarrellR, one thing I don't see mentioned in this thread that may help you to sell your Oriental lilies is their fragrance - absolutely intoxicating!

Riverview, NB(Zone 5b)

Some of the ones I picked out to grow were marked "Fragrant". I don't really have anything that is fragrant other than some of those I choose. Oh, I forgot, I do have "Baby's Breath".

Ottawa, ON(Zone 5a)

If I were a gardener, I (oh, I *am* a gardener) I would be more attracted to one in a pot, with the idea that I would take it home and put it into the ground. And I would rather buy three in three pots than all in one pot, for better spacing. Knowing how lilies multiply over the years and produce so many bulblets, I wouldn't want to keep them in a pot unless I planned to pitch them after blooming. But then I wouldn't be a gardener!

These guys will grow to be 4-5 feet tall before they bloom, usually in late July or early August, and three in an 8" pot would look pretty ungainly and be hard to maintain (watering, etc.). By selling them singly in pots, you're going to have green growth on top and a good rooted system, a great combo for someone who wants to put in some lilies. Have a colour photo nearby, and stress the 'fragrance', 'carefree' and 'will bloom for years' advantages.

St. John's, NL(Zone 5b)

I agree with Andy....only once did I get a 3 per pot and as I mentioned, they were the dwarf patio types which look fine grown that way. Orientals are indeed quite ungainly in a pot. Hopefully they will all sell while still short.

I'm not sure of other peoples experience, but the Orientals seem to be slow to multiply for me.....many of mine still have just the single bulb after 5 years. Meanwhile, the asiatics multiply like crazy.

(Zone 7b)

I don't know about the bulb, because I don't dig them up, but I usually get one more stalk per year.

Riverview, NB(Zone 5b)

Thanks Andy and Todd.

I will be good to go selling them as one per pot and I'm pretty sure I can keep the cost below $5.95 per plant. I'm thinking $4.95.

I go through ink for my printer like crazy. I use photo paper and print pictures of whatever it is I'm selling, with a description and growing needs printed below the pictures.

I also use photo paper when I print out vegetable signs and attach a price under the pictures when I have fresh produce out on the tables of the market.

Using photo paper is something new this year that I thought I'd try out. I like the glossy appearance. It really stands out.

Potsdam, NY(Zone 4a)

Darell, please forgive my sticking my opinion in, but here it is, anyway! LOL! If I were you, I would plant part of the bulbs, and try selling some in pots, to see how it goes. That way, you do not get stuck with a bunch still in pots and not selling.
Also, I know how Casablanca smells and it is heavenly. And, it was in a beautiful floral arrangement. I definitely think you could sell blooms from these lilies easily. Either way, by going both routes, you can repeat the process next year. What do u think? BAM

Riverview, NB(Zone 5b)

Well, I have to tell you, BAM, I think that I'm going to grow these Lilies and sell the Flowers.

I will have to charge $8.22 each to cover the costs involved. If I were to go to a store and want to purchase a plant in a pot of these Lilies, I'd pass this one by because of the cost. It's too much money to ask anyone to pay.

I think that if I find a leaf that has this beatle on it, I can remove "a" leaf without recking the flower, or if I can catch it in time, I can squish the thing before it matures.

Although I've got my plate full already, I'll go through the motions to protect them the best I can and live with the results. My plan was to sell flowers, both fragrant and non-fragrant.

I started out selling vegetables last year, and I thought it might be an "added" touch to sell cut flowers along with the vegetables this year. I'm also selling, this year, vegetable bedding plants and flowering bedding plants.

Last year I did a remarkable amount of business with the small garden I had and didn't start selling vegetables untill the middle of July.

I didn't plant a lot of things and was sorry I didn't. Now that I've had the garden expanded, I can plant more and earlier.

The bottom line here is that I want to offer more, and be open longer than 3 months out of the year.

My thoughts are that if I offer cut flowers as well as plants during the summer months, people might come for vegetables only, but walk away with a plant or a few cut flowers. And visa versa. They might come here to buy a plant or cut flowers, and end up buying their produce as well.

I made a plan and I guess I'm going to stick with it. If it doesn't work, I'll change it next year. :)





This message was edited Apr 8, 2006 12:16 PM

Victoria, BC(Zone 8b)

Darrell, listening to all that you are doing, and seeing the photos, makes me wish (almost) that I was still living in Fredericton. I'd be down to you garden place often. I enjoy going to the places of the main track and getting veggies from the farm and when they have cut flowers, I'm always coming home with them as well.

Linda

Riverview, NB(Zone 5b)

Thanks Linda. I'd be happy to see you here too. :)

Potsdam, NY(Zone 4a)

Darrell, go for it. I think it will be a huge success, for the reasons you stated above. The flowers will attract people who might not stop otherwise. Good luck with all of your garden produce. When you get so big, you need help, I am looking for work! LOL! and the dirt is where I am happiest! BAM

Riverview, NB(Zone 5b)

Thanks BAM.

I think I'll be ok too.

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