Can calla lilies be grown as a houseplant?

I'd like to buy some calla lily bulbs, but of course I can't plant them outside. Can I grow them as houseplants?

I do not know why not as long as they get somemsun. I have callas in pots outside here. You may want to take them out when your weather is warmer.

That's what I was planning to do.

Beware of growing them in too weak an exposure indoors. They tend to draw and get all lax and floppy.
Robert.

They will only be inside during the winter...

Absolutely! I bring all my Calla Lillies in for the Winter, otherwise they would perish from the cold & wet conditions outdoors. I put them in North or East windows to get bright light. Light fertilizing helps too. Here is a picture of "Green Godess" that bloom in January. http://davesgarden.com/forums/t/414473/

I got mine from EasyToGrowBulbs today. Wow. They look really dry. Is that normal?

Yes, just pot them up and water. They'll be fine.

I'm going to do that tomorrow. Thanks so much for your help!

My Z.aethiopica are trying to grow out of the dry medium I have them stored in for winter. I'm afraid they may use up their stored carbs and have no energy to grow in spring. Should I pot them up and just let them grow?
Neal.

geminisage~
I worked in a greenhouse for a time and the ethipicas green right through the winter because of the warmth. They bloomed as well.

I think that because they are from south of the equator naturally, their season is opposite ours and so they are in spring to summer in their homeland. This will definately be tru of bulbs which were imported from , say Africa (their natural home) or anywhere S. of the Eq.

I don't know if they will ever get acclimatized to our northern seasons or not, but since yours are growing now, I'd plant them and let them grow. They will waste away if they are not dormant and growing out of soil, in the dark, etc. They are naturally a warm climate plant (zone8+) so do have them inside in your zone. They also occur naturally in moist soils. If you have more than one, you could try to induce dormancy in some and grow others on. They could be acclimatised to the Northern hemisphere, if that is possible, and might just not be ready to rest yet.

I'm wondering if yours rest at all in the summer? I don't know if they ever go truly dormant in nature, or have it forced upon them by cold temps......

You might "Google" for botanical specifics (how they grow in the wilds) on the web and not look so much at "gardening" sites as that information may not be as good.

Good luck!
Robert.

I'm ready to pot these up and I'm not sure which direction they go! How can I tell what goes up or down?

kbaumle~

If you can see a flattened end with perhaps leafscars in a ring, that would be up. Look for the broader end from which the growth has come. Of course you can always go with planting it on it's side. Should be ok to keep it that way but you could *carefully* upright it later if it bothers you. Be delicate or wait a while to do it as the new roots are very brittle.

Robert.

Any and all~

I did a little websearching and as usual, I found a *wide* range of often conflicting information.

It seems as though Z. aethiopica will go dormant in it's own summer (opposite ours) if the soil dries out completely, but will merely rest if not. Again, there was no information as to whether they could sync up with our seasons. So in those areas where the soil does not freeze down to the rhizome, they will survive outdoors in the ground. In Europe, a site said they could be left in the muck of ponds for winter. The root will turn to mush if it freezes. Plantings on the US west coast don't seem to ever go dormant , just slowing down in too cool temp, maybe getting frostbitten, and then grow til they rest a while. Your experience could vary.......

Still, it seems to be a forced rest to store a potted white calla through northern hemisphere winters, and better results would be to not make it die down if you have it potted up. If it seems to be stalling in our summer, then hold back on the water. If yellowing and withering of the foliage follows let it go all the way dry. If not, water less, but don't allow to dry completely.

But, they do grow huge and keeping a growing plant in the home might be a problem. One reason I haven't grown this one and it is one of my favorites.

I've grown other plants that rest in summer, my belladonna lily for instance, and it never fully goes dormant, but halts growth through the summer til fall comes, then it starts to grow again. It has never bloomed, but we're trying! ;-)

So, it's all pretty confusing, isn't it?

Hope I didn't make it worse.
Robert.

Well, I just should have read EasyToGrowBulbs directions! LOL!

"Plant bulbs shallowly, so the tops of the tubers are exposed."

And I was able to see starts of growth, like eyes, so I put them going up. Mine is Zantedeschia childsiana, Dwarf White. According to ETGB, this variety makes a great potted plant.

http://www.easytogrowbulbs.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=204

Thanks Robert. I'm glad I'm not the only one reading conflicting info.
I had strange rotting occur in several of my callas. Strange because it was during a drought! So I think my experiences with them this year have just been strange overall. But I saw them all happy and in bloom, so I'll not give up on them. I used to grow them in containers and let them set dry in the basement for winter and they did great. But those were Z.rehmanii, which are often winter hardy here.

gemini_sage~

The major cause of your problem prolly was the effects of the drought! This is true of Z. aethiopica in a big way and seems to hold true of most other callas (at least the ones I've grown.

If they run too dry for too long, some of the roots may become damaged or even die and bacteria/fungi can start in , when they *do* get water, especially if it's from a long heavy summer rain.

As far as "conflicting info" goes: one webpage I looked at said callas were good in zones 1-5. (!!!!)

Robert.

Ah ha! So that's it! Thanks for your help Robert. Containers it shall be for all of them in '06. And there are so many cool colors I want to try in spring. What varieties are calling to any of you to try?
Neal.

I want to try as many as I can this summer, made a new flower bed this fall with leaves and newspaper, should be ready for spring, just hate digging up for the winter, not that much light in my house or room to pot up, has anyone tried to overwinter in a paper bag like the link that kbaumle gave us?
I have Z. aethiopica, it has survived the winters here about 5' away from the house but has never bloomed? Guess not enough sun, I fed them with bone meal, well anyway I read somewhere to dig them in the fall, I did and way too many bulbs to even try to store, wish I had waited till spring, have enough for about 5 decent trades if anyone is interested, I dug these about 3 wks. ago and they still have green shoots comming out of them, I have them drying on newspaper in our T.V. room, some of the tops aren't dry yet. Is it too late in the season to mail? I really hate for these to go to waist :o( Keep in mind I haven't a clue about bulbs, it is all German to me lol

LeBug wrote:
"I have Z. aethiopica, it has survived the winters here about 5' away from the house but has never bloomed? Guess not enough sun, I fed them with bone meal

I have read that if you have trouble with them, it's prolly not the amount of sun (unless it's *deep* shade I guess). It was said that lack of water was the most likely cause as they can adapt to less-than-full sun easily. I think your problem may have to do with having too short a growing season so far north. If they're sync-ed up with the South. hemis., they would normally begin blooming with our fall into winter and spring, maybe going as far as summer. Most of what I have read says they bloom beginning in spring (in the south. hemis., that is).

Again, even if you buy them from a US distributer, they may be still have come from south of the equator. Many Dutch firms import them from South Africa or grow stock originally from there, and can grow them "out-of-syn with their native climate, in greenhouses.

" I dug these about 3 wks. ago and they still have green shoots comming out of them"

Sounds right to me: They are in the growing season of south of the equator locales(nearing their mid-summer) so would be wanting to continue growing. Ther's no way around it. I would say grow them on if possible. If not, then "do what you can" to try to save them over. Keep as cool as possible without freezing.

" some of the tops aren't dry yet. Is it too late in the season to mail?"

It might depend on where they end up. But since they're already dug, I'd ship them off, poste haste, anyyhow, and hope the recipient can grow them on. Leastwise, * they* can deal with it!

I got my start of Amazon lily (Eucharis) at the "Southern Spring Show" in Charlotte, NC and it was in a bag, no root, no foliage and it started up fine right away. I mention this because they are evergreen and only rest, keeping all their foliage.

I think this thread shows why the aethiopica is not more widely grown!

Robert.

It's so beautiful I just hate this, so you think I will only get foliage? I like that too, I'm really a foliage person lol Just wanted to see those blooms, I bought them local. They got sun until about 3. I will try and plant in full sun, if they make it. I think they got plenty of water.
Thanks for the info Robert.
Lea

LeBug~

I just don't know for sure. If you had them potted, so you could start them before your outdoor temps really warm up, and get a head start so-to-speak, you could transplant them or let them go in the pots and maybe get some of those stately and elegant blooms.
Maybe putting black plastic down over them or a makeshift cold frame (warm frame!) over them might do the trick.


Keep trying!

Robert.

Well, I repotted my callas today. I noticed MOLD growing on the surface of the potting mixture. And when I took them out of the soil, there was mold on the bulbs. They're still solid and it's only been 5 days since I potted them, so I'm hoping they'll be fine. I let them air out a bit and then when I potted them back up, I didn't water them. The potting soil already has a little moisture in it.

I can't win these days... :-(

I landed 30 callas, aethiopicas, in a Lowes deal and they all look hard and dormant, but healthy with eyes. So, I've just stored them in peat in the cool "bulb closet". I'm hoping since they came from Holland, that's where they were grown. What an impact all those would make together!
Neal.

Keeping them cool (and dry), Neal, should work. I find this is true with aethiopica, but especially so with non-aethiopica.

It seems to me that as far as overwintering, they are akin to Cannas. ("Can one keep cannas where you are?") As long as there is not frozen soil around the bulb, they sould survive. They are grown everywhere in Western Oregon and the rest of the Pacific NW. (telling you what they like.)
(I've even overwintered Z. rhemanii)

I must admit that I no longer grow Z. aethiopica, as I don't really like the plant, and thus are not worth trying to grow where it is too hot for them.

Kenton

Kenton, I wonder if too hot and dry is the problem in your area. Mine never seemed to have a problem with the heat, or the aethiopica that did'nt rot that is. But, it was in the shade, which was one reason I wanted aethiopica there. I understand they like shade better than the rehmaniis. Big was what I was going for to. What are some of the biggest rehmaniis out there? The dwarf varieties have become so popular, but I really like height.
Neal.

I think mine are rotting. :-( Seems like they did that after only a few days. I repotted in dry potting medium (well, it was slightly moist). Nothing positive to report yet. *sigh*

Sorry to hear it Kylee. Remind me, I have a bulb or two for you come spring (and seriously, Remind me in March, I'd forget my name were it not written down somewhere.)

Yes, Neal: 100+ degrees and 20% humidity does not help Z. aethiopica. They grow fine, but no blooms. I don't like'em anyhow.

There are some nice rhemanii hybrids, the best are bigger, up to 24" (and that's not in shade. One I liked was 'Cherry (something)'
But, The best rhemanii-blooded plants are hybrids with eliottiana, albomaculata, etc. The inter-specific guys are top-notch (Scientifically, the kick the buttocks of strictly rhemanii cultivars.) But if you really want strappy leaves and no variegation, I can look in my records, photos, brain, etc, for the best non-mini rhemaniis.

Yes, they (rhemanii) need real sun to even think of blooming. (If had a rare exception or two. As far as non-aethiopica Zants. that are best for shade: good old elliotiana is the only one I've seen that works. It is still much better suited to some sun.

Kenton

Kenton, you've just been such a dear! I've not given up on them yet, but it doesn't look promising. :-( Are callas prone to rotting? I've tried not to get them or keep them too wet, just damp.

Rot is probably the most common problem with Zant. It appears to me that if a Z aethiopica is not healthy and rearing to go when planted, it can rot -which really is odd, as they are a great submersible plant.

Most of my collection was zapped by soft rot (Erwinia) almost overnight last summer. It is worse in heat, and I got it. (Dry is also bad for it! Great, eh?) Crazy enough, the way I saved some of them was to overwater every day! (These were not aethiopicas.)

Next year, I will grow them in well-draining mix (added perlite, perhaps,) and water them ridiculously. (Plus some systemic) Soft rot could be entirely absent one day, but the following morning could mean the whole plant is mush. (Wierdest thing- all tissues are like wet mashed potato. There is but a gooy "shadow" of your plant!) I swear It is actually the result a weapon from Star Trek.

Uf, that was a horror story that I hope does not scare anyone from growing them. My experience was freakish. But just know that Zants don't liked dry heat!

Kenton

P.S. I am currently growing a Z. albomaculata as a houseplant. As much sun as possible is a must, and misting the leaves will prevent mites.

Some last year:
Z. 'Mango' and the towering Z. 'Treasure.'

Oooooh, pretty! Well, can you tell me how soon I could expect the bulbs to start growing? They still feel pretty solid as a whole, but it seems like rot could really set in, in earnest, at any time.

A full leaf in three weeks, probably. They are quick when they get going.

I have had flowers after six weeks of planting. (albomaculata-it's a tough one.)

Okay, so it's been about two weeks since potting and I see no start of growth. Not good, right?

It could be slow. It may have been forrced into a deeper dormancy by improper (or Indecent!) storage.

{{I could e-mail that picture, but that's not necessary}}

Oooh, love those 2 varieties. Towering Treasure is awsome. I do love the spotted leaf types-pretty with or without blooms.

I don't really know what to do, but here's what I did:

It's been a month, and only the slightest hint of growth from the callas. Tiny tips of green. I've been in contact with Jon at EasyToGrowBulbs and we're giving them more time, but I noticed in the last few days that there were fungus gnats hanging around the pot. Since I don't have anything handy to combat them, and there has been little action from the bulbs, I decided to repot them carefully. I discovered that the bottom half of the bulbs are mush. :-( I slimed that all off until I got to solid bulb and replanted them in fresh soil.

Any words of advice?

kbaumle~

They *must* be nice and toasty warm! Too cool and wet spells trouble. Fungus gnats are a problem with things staying too moist or wet. Until your bulbs grow good strong roots and have foliage to draw on the water, I'd cut back on the water. If you can't keep them quite warm, I would be inclined to unpot them and wait until they are spurred into growth by consistant warmth, and that includes at night. The dryness would help with healing over the scraped-away surfaces.

I hope you air-dried them for at least a week before re-planting.....An application of fungicide or at least a dusting in sulfur can help with the fungus problem.

Good luck.
Robert.

I did replant them right away, but I put them in fresh soil that was merely damp and didn't water them. I won't water again until it's really dry. I moved them to a warmer area (by my computer where I run a little heater down by my feet and a thermometer that sits by the callas reads around 70° most of the time, only getting down to 67° or so at night). They get all the light from a north window that is about 6 inches from the pot. Does that sound good?

Kbaumle~

Sounds good except for the "really dry" part. As long as there isn't any root growth, that would be ok, but you don't want them to go too dry if root growth has started as those tender li'l roots will dry up and die. Just lightly moist if they're in growth and up the water to match the amount of foliage as it comes. You know. It can be a guessing game in a way, but as long as the soil has good drainage, you should do alright. When they're in full flush. you can't drown 'em!

After I wrote before about using fungicide or sulphur, it occured to me later in the night, that the rot was most likely a bacterial rot (as most rots are) and fungicide wouldn't really help that, but it couldn't hurt, just in case, if you did use it. Maybe the sulphur discourages bacteria too, I don't know. I usually dip my bulbs in a 5-10% "clorox" solution (1/2 to 1 part clorine bleach to 9.5 to 9 parts water. Just a brief dip and dry completely. Kills viruses on the surface too.

Good luck! I'm looking forward to some great calla pix!
Robert.

Today, I sprayed the soil, rather than watered it, so that it wouldn't be soaked. I'm going to go easy on the water for a little bit. I hope I'll have some pics to show you sometime, but I'm not holding my breath!