I just moved all my Hibiscus Tropicals into the greenhouse today, and I didn't trim them back yet, but I know they are going to need to be trimmed. Would someone be so kind to tell me how far to trim and what ever else I need to do to get them ready for the ole man winter.
Linda
Cutting back Hibiscus Tropicals for the winter.
Linda, I would only trim them enough to store them. And it would be better if you can wait to trim them in the spring. Trimming them encourages them to form new growth.
I trim mine back in the spring when I repot them. For the ones that need to be trimmed back a lot, I usually go ahead and trim back the root ball in order to keep them in the same size pot. How much I trim is determined by the size and shape of the hibiscus - - some get a lot, others just a modest shaping up.
This message was edited Oct 17, 2005 11:47 AM
Yes--I have heard on a local gardening program here that trees and shrubs cut back in Fall can actually cause damage. Especially for you in colder regions--the plant could get frost damage. It would be best all the way around to trim things like that in Spring once temps are warm enough!! Bonnie
One year I brought them into the house and someone said they should be trimmed back for them to go dormant, for the winter. I wonder what they were talking about?
Linda, tropical hibiscus can be allowed to go semi-dormant over the winter, but there are no guarantees that they will do well the next year. I used to store my largest ones in the garage (before growlights) and they would look awful by the time spring came around. Some would perk back up, but I would occassionally lose one overwintering them this way.
I am no authority by all means, but most of the best websites on tropical hibiscus do recommend keeping them growing through the winter and to only trim them back in the fall to the extent that you need to.
Nathalyn thanks for all the information, I have so many of them that they are taking up the biggest part of my greenhouse, but I will do what you suggested, because I don't want to loose any of them. I may trim off some of the tops just so I can get them on the bottom of my shelves. I won't be trimming them back that much at all.
Thanks again
Linda
I am over-wintering only one and got some much needed information here and would like to thank all of you.
Joan
Since I have moved them into the greenhouse a lot of the leaves are turning yellow. I know this means a lot of different things, stress, lack of water, to much water, to much food, not enough food, but what happens if all the leaves turn yellow and fall off? Will they grow back this winter?
I just moved mine in as well and the leaves instantly started to turn bright yellow and most of those have fallen off. If they all do that, it won't be long until it is leafless. As I recall, last winter they did the same thing. But they came back in the spring. However, they sure didn't bloom much this year. Wonder if that was the reason?
Susan
=^..^=
All the Hibiscus I have had the last couple years lose the leaves in Fall and grow back in Spring so I think it is normal. Could ask a horticulturst at a Hibiscus nursery or at Park Seeds?? I need to ask why the seed pods always turn yellow and fall off before ripening!! waaaa Anyone here know?? Bonnie
I had a hibiscus in a pot last year and overwintered it in my hoop house. It's leaves turned yellow, it got timy black bugs and all-round looked like warmed over death.
When spring came I brought it out into the backyard and it started to green up. Then it really took off! It finally got so full I had to either move it to a bigger pot or put it in the ground; we put it in the ground.
The other day we were in the front yard putting 2 more hibiscus in the ground and I suddenly realized that of all the hibiscus in the front yard the one that overwintered in the hoop house was the only one that bloomed in the brutal heat of this summer and is now not only head and shoulders above the others, but is twice as wide and full.
To be honest, I wouldn't have believed it would make any difference at all ~especially down here~ if I hadn't experienced for myself...
Hi everyone,
If you don't have room in your greenhouse or garage, I'd be glad to "store" some of them for you. Send 'em on down!
Steve
I have kept a giant red hibiscus growing year round for over ten years. It summers outside, and during those months (may-sept), it gets diluted blossom booster with every watering. This was a tip from a much older, very serious gardener. She says their hungry plamts , and hers is glorious. Incredibly budded out now , almost nov. She tells me; cut it back fairly hard each spring. Mine winters under grow-lites, 8 hrs a day, and then I back off the fert.
It's worh it to find flowers in february, in my basement grow room.
I've brought my 3 tropicals into the house for the last 3 years as soon as it starts to get cold at night. They bloom for a bit when they are first moved in (for a month or two) and then I get no blooms for the rest of the winter. I just keep them watered. They lose some leaves (mostly when I forget to water them!) and look pretty lethargic by spring. I move them out onto an enclosed porch in early spring, and then outside again when nights are warm. They are thriving.
Everybody wants to add fertilizer....
I add it only twice per year. In spring when the hibiscus go out for the summer and get pruned, and in late February or March to help them as the days get longer and they wake up.
Use a 'Blossom Booster' that is a water soluble fertilizer with a high middle number. Something like Jacks Classic 10-30-20.
Mine don't flower much in summer because I trim them hard in spring but bloom from September through February. (Today is an off day, only 2 flowers. Big double pink)
Andy P
All growers, collectors and commercials I know recommend a fertilizer vey low in phosphorus (I use a 14-5-29) during the growing season and an standard 20-20-20 during the Winter.
The AHS Hibiscus Handbook says literally:
"Phosphorus applied to the soil will not leach out and remains available for a long period. Too much phosphorus, especially on alkaline soils, will tie up or render unavailable most minor elements, especially iron. Once this situation ocurrs it can take as long as 12 months to correct or lower the phosphorus level in the soil. For this reason, a fertilizer formula relatively low in phosphorus is desirable".
Here you can read more
http://www.hiddenvalleyhibiscus.com/care/feeding.htm
http://loyno.edu/~gerlich/NOHS/care.html
http://www.atouchofthetropics.net/care.shtml#sp2
http://www.exotic-hibiscus.com/care/winter.htm
Regards
Carlos
I have also been told that a high middle number can burn the roots. This HVH Special Blend Fertilizer is an excellent fertilizer to use. Another excellent fertilizer is Space City Hibiscus Fertilizer. I used the fertilizer last summer 1/2 strength twice a week, and my hibiscus did wonderful. And I don't have any stock in either company either. I also gave them a little EP and some Fish emulsion.
Maybe my formula works because I use it so rarely.
1/2 strength once in March and full strength once in June. None at all If I re-pot it in June.
I don't want my Hi to grow too much or it will outgrow my limited indoor space too fast. As it is I can only keep them for maybe 20 years each.
Here is a 9 or 10 year old, the flower is on a 5 year old cutting. (2 weeks after coming in for the winter)
Andy P
Carlos,
I love your hibiscus. They are simply gorgeous.
This message was edited Nov 15, 2005 3:41 PM
Andy is that a Hibiscus tree? I have one in the greenhouse that is 6 1/2 ft. tall and one that is close to 5 ft. Then I have a bush and around 20 plants. I love hibiscus only wish they put off a smell. But there flowers are to die for.
I wanted to add that yours is very pretty, what color is the flowers?
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