PVC Greenhouse

Grantsboro, NC(Zone 8b)

These free 6ft x 9ft PVC Greenhouse plans are also available free by mail. Home Send a self addressed, stamped envelope to: Greenhouse offer, Circo Innovations, 14910 Meadow Dr., Grass Valley, CA 95945

Greenhouse Parts List-6' x 9'(approx.) Prt Qty Description Prt Qty Description
A 20 36 inch tube (1 inch sch. 40 PVC) B 2 72 inch tube (1 inch sch. 40 PVC)
C 4 16-1/2 inch tube (1 inch sch. 40 PVC) D 6 3-way L - 1 inch (Circo item #33)
E 8 4-way LT - 1 inch (Circo item #43) F 10 Tee - 1 inch PVC fitting
G 8 58 inch tube (1 inch sch. 40 PVC) H 1 71-1/4 inch tube (1 inch sch. 40 PVC)
I Door Hinge - (will assemble) J Door latch - (will assemble)
K 2 34-1/4 inch tube (1 inch sch. 40 PVC) L 2 32 inch tube (1 inch sch. 40 PVC)
M 6 50 inch tube (1 inch sch. 40 PVC) O 4 L/90 - 1 inch PVC fitting
P Connector 1 lft, 1 rgt. - (will assemble) Q Connector 1 lft, 1 rgt. - (will assemble)
R Connector. - (will assemble 4) S Connector 1 lft, 1 rgt. - (will assemble)
T 1 Top/sides Cover (see bottom page) U 1 Back Cover (see bottom page)
V 1 Front Cover (see bottom page) W 1 Door Cover (see bottom page)
X 98 Snap Clamps 4" X 1" ( Item #13) Y 4 Snap Clamps 4' X 1" ( Item #03)
Z 4 18 inch tube (1 inch sch. 40 PVC) AA 12 1-3/4 inch tube (1 inch sch. 40 PVC)
BB 10 45 degree - 1 inch PVC fitting CC 4 X /cross - 1 inch PVC fitting
DD 2 31 inch tube (1 inch sch. 40 PVC) EE 2 8 inch Metal EMT conduit (3/4" dia.)
FF 2 3 inch tube (1 inch sch. 40 PVC) GG 2 3/8-16 x 4" Steel Eye Bolt
HH 4 Metal screw 8 x 3/4 (Pre-drill PVC and
conduit. Conduit should be tight against PVC)
I I 5 3/8-16 Lock Nut
J J 1 71-1/2 inch tube (1 inch sch. 40 PVC) KK 1 3/8-16 x 5" Steel Eye Bolt
LL 1 Thick washer (plastic preferred) MM 1 5/16" x 2" U Bolt Plate

Initial Parts Assembly
I. (Pre-built door hinge assembly)

J. (Pre-built door latch assembly)


P. (Connector - 1 lft, 1 rgt) Q. (Connector - 1 lft, 1 rgt)

R. (Connector-4) S. (Connector - 1 lft, 1 rgt)


Greenhouse Assembly:









Helpful Hints 1. After building the frame attach the 10" x 20" top/sides cover first, beginning with the bottom edge. Roll cover up and over top and attach to the bottom of the other side. Front and back covers should overlap top/sides cover and be secured with Snap Clamps as shown.
2. It may be easier to attach the door cover with the door unbolted from the frame.
3. To hold the Greenhouse down in windy areas, put sand bags on anchor tubes (Z), or stake down.
4. As the seasons change you can change covers also (ie. Shade cloth in summer, bird netting at harvest time).
5. In windy areas use 1/2 inch self tapping screws to secure every third Snap Clamp starting in each corner. Use two screws in 4 ft. Snap Clamps.

Murfreesboro, TN(Zone 7a)

Here's the link from Circo's site: http://www.snapclamp.com/greenhouse.htm

I built a modified (larger) version of this GH four years ago; after I modifed the plans, I wound up with a 10 x 12 greenhouse.

That structure is currently being replaced by a Rion polycarb kit, slightly smaller (8.6 x 12.6) and not as tall - better for energy efficiency. (I lost a lot of warm air to my 10' peak.)

If anyone builds this GH from the plans, here are my recommendations:

1) Find a way to treat the PVC, especially the connections, because they will deteriorate faster than just about anything else. (paint is most likely the best defense against sunlight.)

2) II first used firring strips bolted to the outside edges to attach my plastic rather than the "snap clamps". It wasn't pretty, but it did the job. I then bought "snap clamps" from AM Leonard or Charley's - don't remember which - and they look better, but we had to use self-tapping screws to keep them from popping off in windy weather.

3) I didn't build the door. Instead, we bought a cheap wood screen door, and covered it in the same plastic we sheathed the GH in. Worked pretty good - you just have to "frame" (firring strips) around the doorway.

4) Consider ventilation - I didn't and I'm sure that didn't help my PVC. A louvered vent in the "back" wall would have been a good investment, in retrospect.

5) Build bigger than 6 x 9 - not only will you outgrow a small GH fast, but it's harder to regulate the temperatures. When it's cold, it's FREEZING and when it's hot, it's deadly. Bigger space = easier to moderate the temperatures for your plants and your own comfort.

The upside to using these plans? Aside from cost (much cheaper than a polycarb kit ;o) I personally think the gable-style structure looks a little more formal and more like a traditional GH than the hoop house-style (nice if you're in a suburban setting).

The straight walls (vs. a hoop house) make it easier to efficiently use the space for shelves.

Grantsboro, NC(Zone 8b)

Thanks for the extra info. I am new to this but have wanted to build one of these ever since it came out in Mother Earth News.
And from experience it helps to know what kind of thins others have tried and had to rethink.

Thanks bunches
Lavina

Tellico Plains, TN(Zone 7b)

Lavina,

Take a look at this one. The more you read the easier it will be when it comes time to build your own.

I prefer this plan over the one with PVC clamps & Hinges.

http://www.bae.ncsu.edu/programs/extension/publicat/postharv/green/small_greenhouse.pdf

This plan will print out nicely on only 4 pages ;-)

Yukon, OK(Zone 7b)

I made one last fall, that did great thru the winter, but the spring storms totally ripped the heck out of the plastic covering. I covered just the front and the door with vinyl from a fabric store, and it is still in great shape. I did provide ventilation during hot times and put in a small fan to circulate air. The shed right next to it had electricity, so it was easy to put an outlet into the greenhouse. I am planning on covering it this winter with corrugated greenhouse siding which is supposed to be UV blocking. Thanks, Terry, for the hint about painting the pvc itself. Gonna do that while it's 'naked' . I built and constructed this with the above plans all by myself. It was really easy to do. I used pvc cement at all the connections and even tornadic weather didn't damage the structure itself, just the cheap covering.
The link is to the picture of it finished and after the storm ripped the covering.
http://davesgarden.com/journal/edit/viewentry.php?rid=70014

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