Hydrogen Peroxide

Ridgeville, IN(Zone 5a)

I was looking through some of the messages in the forum here, and came across a conversation about hydrogen peroxide being used to treat string algae. And this really is safe for fish and water plants? How do you know how much to add to your pond? And do you only add it when the algae starts, or on a regular basis?

This is my 3rd full season for my pond. Last season I finally got the green water under control, but I don't have it perfected yet. It still fluctuates a bit. Nothing like it was, but it isn't always cyrstal clear. I was actually quite happy when I was reading that not everyone, even experienced ponders, has crystal clear water everyday all season long. Makes me feel a bit better. ;o) My biggest problem is shade cover, but I'm working on that with plants. Jenny

Fredericksburg, TX(Zone 8a)

Jenny... do you currently have a problem with string algae? You may have read this in other threads, but here goes anyways..... Our problem has diminished since we started treating with peroxide. I did not physically remove any loose algae before treating, I found a pint in our 180 gallon pond did the trick. Subsequent treatments have been used to keep the strings under control, but the treatments have been farther apart and I have cut down to 1/2 pint per treatment. Never was there any affect on other plants or fish. Understand this pond was first put into operation around February this year. I went to the local creek and got some microscopic water critters, such as daphnia, to start a population to help control the algae. Since your pond is 3 years old, you should already have a population of critters to help with the string algae. Then again, organic matter, fish population and nutrients in the water are all variables that will affect your pond. Our pea soup algae problem did not last long. Not sure why, cycling 500 GPH thru the filter might have something to do with that. Thats our story, hope others have some info to share on the topic.... Tom

Kittrell, NC(Zone 7b)

Listen to the man! He knows what he's talking about!! He has sure helped me. :=]

Brunswick, ME(Zone 5a)

Jenny, I've used hydrogen peroxide for several years with no observable effects on any fish, frogs, tadpoles, plants, etc. - just on the string algae. It also is quite well documented that others use it (both on this forum and other forums that I frequent) with no ill effects. Personnally I don't recommend adding it routinely but just on an as-needed basis. Dosages vary from as light as 1 pint per 1000 gallons to 1 pint per 100 gallons with repeat doses tossed in about 3-5 days later if you don't see any effect. I would start out with a light dose at first to find the minimum amount you need to add to get rid of your string algae. If that doesn't work then up the dosage until you find what works for you, in your pond, with your conditions.

The reason I typically recommend that you clean out as much of the string stuff by hand is that under the right set of conditions you may create an oxygen demand that could stress your fish. This can occur when you have a large amount of string algae, very warm water temperatures (reduces the oxygen solubility) and modest oxygenation from either your stream, waterfall or other water feature. I also have a bubbler (the same one that I use in the winter) to toss in there if I suspect I'm going to be running a bit low on oxygen in the pond. In all the years I've done this I've not had to use the bubbler. Take care and enjoy your pond.

And yes, I get a spurt of green water in the spring before the biofilters cut in fully! :-))

Ridgeville, IN(Zone 5a)

Thank you so much for your info. :o) Jenny

Fredericksburg, TX(Zone 8a)

Lets give credit where credit is due... DRH2 is the one who helped me get the peroxide and string algae under control and told me all about the microscopic water critters.... Tom

PS.... when I did my first treatments was in late winter/early spring when it was very cool. Had I done the same treatment in the heat we have now, there could have been oxygen starvation problems for sure.

Brunswick, ME(Zone 5a)

Tom, credit is not relevant as far as I'm concerned. More importantly is to get good, relevant information to folks who need and want it.
-DRH2 (a.k.a. ... David)
P.S. Couldn't resist dumping in a photo of our lotus blooming from recent years. Looking for buds right about now.

This message was edited Jul 18, 2005 10:26 PM

Thumbnail by DRH2
Fredericksburg, TX(Zone 8a)

David... true... credit is not relavent, but it does have its time and place. I thot it appropriate on both accounts, but you are absolutely correct on getting the info out to those who want it, that is definitely job #1. Thanks again!!!!!! Tom

Victoria, BC(Zone 8b)

Thanks for the advice in this thread. The lotus is the reason why we got a 250 gal pond 3 weeks ago.

I too am having a problem with green algae. Not stringy that I've noticed, but green water and slime on the sides. I got some 'trapdoor' snails, and have 4 gold fish. I did go and get a passive filter with some kind of cardboard like filler, and added some 'crystal waters' 1/2 oz to 250 g. This and the filter were added last wekend, and there's no difference.

My question, would a passive filter of barley work well enough, or whoudl I get an active filter, or is there liquid barley?

The deck is on our covered deck, but it hot on there, ~ 95F and bright indirect sunlight.

Thumbnail by MG99
Fredericksburg, TX(Zone 8a)

If your pond is only 3 weeks old, there may be nothing you can do at this time but let time do nature's work. A pond has to mature and balance itself before you really know if you need extra treatments of anything like that. An active filter would help the situation in my opinion. I can't help you with the barley thing, I have never used it, from reading the various threads in here it is questionable if it works or not.
My guess would be that all the plants and pots you have in there leached a lot of minerals into the water, the algae are having a field day gobbling them up. When they have eaten all the minerals, they will die and sink to the bottom leaving you with clear water. Then other bacteria will start eating the dead algae, the waste products from these bacteria are basically fertilizer for the plants. It works something like that... maybe someone else can add to the discussion... good luck.
PS... I have a good friend who lives in Victoria... Esquimalt actually (think thats how you spell it)

Victoria, BC(Zone 8b)

Yes, you spelled it correctly, Esquimalt. You can tell your friend we're out by Mount Doug.

Thanks for the info. I'm of the impulsive type, just wee bit! LOL, and I want it clear NOW! So, I bought a UV clarifier and already have it in.. We are going away for 3 weeks come Mnday, so if it's not clear by the time we get home, I guess an active filter is in order.

linda

Fredericksburg, TX(Zone 8a)

Impulsive eh??? could spell bad news.... they say its not nice to try to fool mother nature!!! Then again, after the 3 weeks, your pond might be clear anyways. Every pond has its green stage, how long they last is anyone's guess. Our pond's green stage lasted about a week at most, but we were filtering 500 GPH in a 200 gallon pond. That surely had something to do with it.
I been to Victoria a few times, but don't remember a Mount Doug. My buddy works at Buchart, took DW there a couple years ago for anniversary. Let us know what happens when you return... Tom

Thumbnail by silverfluter
Brunswick, ME(Zone 5a)

MG, one of the things that some people do is use polyester quilt batting. You can make a 'smallish' filter (so-called "Adam's Filter" see this site: http://rodandjenn2.home.mchsi.com/Adam_s_Filter/adam_s_filter.html ) or just wrap the strainer on your pump with the quilt batting. The batting can be easily cleaned by running it under a hose or even running it through your washing machine. This type of filter is a physical filter in that it will help remove the suspended algae. While a UV light would also work IMO that's a bit of overkill when a simpler solution will work. I also agree with Tom that it takes a while for everything to settle in. But I can understand your wish to have everything clear right away - my wife accuses me of playing the role of "Father Nature" (that's the guy who fools around with Mother Nature)! :-))

DrH2, don't the UV clarifiers kill your beneficial bacteria as well as the algea?

I'm getting ready to start using the hydrogen peroxide for the string algae. I don't really mind it that much, but it is starting to get a bit out of hand, and I think it may be compromising some of my plants. I've reflected on the dosage information in this thread and think I can start with the 1 pint/1000 gallons (so that's a bit better than 4 pints for me), and see what happens. But if I need to increase the doseage, where's a good source for buying this stuff in larger sized containers? Do pool and spa suppliers carry it?

Brunswick, ME(Zone 5a)

Pixy, the UV clarifiers won't kill the 'beneficial' bacteria. The nitrifiers - the ones converting ammonia that's being excreted by your fish - prefer to grow on surfaces (refered to as 'attached film growth'). As a result they grow on your liner, on rocks and on your biomedia. Since they're not suspended like the suspended types of algae then the UV light has no impact on the rate of ammonia conversion.

As to bigger and better suppliers of H2O2 - yes, pool and spa suppliers do carry it. But be careful because they may be carrying an industrial grade - something on the order of 10% H2O2 whereas the stuff you get in Costco, Walmart or your local drugstore is almost always 3%. Just adjust the volume proportionately (in one of the threads I believe I posted a link to a simple spreadsheet that will help with the calculations - I can post it again if you want/need it or just drop me an e-mail). I've found it in our local super market about $1.00 - $1.25 per quart and I usually buy around 3 quarts for my pond.

Ah, thanks loads for the "clarification"! That helps enormously. Of course, it makes perfect sense when I think about it.
I remember your posting the conversion calculations for using the stronger H2O2. I'm sure I can find it. If not, I'll dmail you. Thanks.

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