problems with fruit trees

I have several types of fruit trees, and yes i've been to the county extension office with samples, and they said 50% malathion every 2 to 3 weeks. . well, we've been doing that, well about every month, and dang it we still have these problems


teeny tiny holes in the plums tiny worms.

peach tree borers, in the trees and the peaches, I can't spray enough, I spray the tree trunk, I've even gone as far as doing this (they told me to) dig a trench around the peach tree and dump the moth balls around it, and bury them up, it would fumigate the tree and kill the borers, that didn't work either,


Rust on the apple trees, 2 of them, the others are fine, we have recently removed a row of cedar trees that was causing the problem more than likely. and we did this after a rain, and the rust balls were all mush andwouldn't spread (this is why we cut after a rain). but we still have rust on 2 of the apple trees. don't know the name of the apple trees, I think we have 3 kinds their all about 4 years now, jsut starting to produce a few fruit this year.


Last year we had a bad ordeal with I forgot the name of the disease on the pear trees, it took out 2 whole young trees before we knew what it was, branches started dying off then it took the whole tree, and spread to the other trees, we finally cut off all the branches behind the bad spots, spray ed the cut areas, with a sealer, and spray ed the trees, with the poison fo rthis disease of which I forgot , what it was. Now I went out there today and I found one or two branches on 2 diff pear trees, completely dead, I have to go through the process again, do you ever get rid of this disease,

I swear it's not worth it to have all these trees, cause we can't keep them disease and bug free. no matter what we do.

what the heck do the orchards use on their trees. I know < I know, you can't buy that stuff.

we are diligent on spraying the trees, but it's not doing any good, and we quit the natural thing along time ago, cause we just couldn't get anywhere staying natural with the trees.

Did your county agent suggest treatiing your trees with dormant oil spray while the trees were dormant? You can avoid many pest if you do.

Your pear trees probably have fire blight. Pear trees are more suceptible than many other members of the rose family. Look for it on your apple trees. Bees spread the disease while pollinating. You need to cut back to 12 inches below the dead areas. and remove all flowers from the pear and apple trees. No flowers no fire blight. It's drastic, but it saves your trees. I was told to do this for 3 years by our county agent. That gives the trees a chance to recover fully. Healthy trees are not as susceptible to diseases.

I found a good website on cedar-apple rust. Control of the rust involves getting rid of cedar trees and the use of fungicides on the apple trees. Depending on prevailing winds, rust from the cedar trees can travel up to 3 miles. It may involve removing cedar trees from a larger area.The article also includes the names of apple trees that are resistant to the rust.

http://pearl.agcomm.okstate.edu/plantdiseases/f-7611.html

One on peach tree borers.

http://www.ext.colostate.edu/pubs/insect/05566.html

I couldn't help with the plum trees. It does bring up a few questions. Are all your fruit trees having problems or only a few. If it's all of them, you need to look at your cultural practices. You could be stressing your trees with something you are or are not doing right.

I have two plum trees, both have tiny plums with tiny holes , their young trees about 2 to 3 years old.

yes he did suggest a dormant spray which we do use, forgot to mention that. sorry.

will check out those links.

It sounds like your soil is worn out and needs a good organic program. We are somewhat new to organic gardening, but below is one example of what organics can do. This pic was taken in Feb. In all previous years, the bluebonnets remain small dormant plants until March, they bloom mid March through April. This plant came up in a flower bed where DW had added organic materials and organic fertilizers. Two feet away in the yard were still dormant bluebonnet plants, barely 1/2 inch tall.

well, I do know your right about the soil, chemicals, fertilizers, etc.. has a way of draining the soil.

your bluebonnets look wonderful

Yes indeed, the soil is to plants what your body is to your life. We know what drugs do to your life, chemicals do the same thing for the soil. Sure the plants might get "high" for a while, but the damage will show up later. Fortunately the soil has a much better chance of returning to a natural healthy state. Organic matter and fuel to feed the micro-organisms is the way to go, healthy plants resist disease and pests. It takes time... lots of time, but it is worth it in the long run!!