Growing any plant is a magical and very scientific process - even if we are unaware of what is going on. I 'trusted' information given to me by other hoya growers, other nursery people and suppliers to nurseries and growers. I trusted a fertilizer I was told was "THE best". What I didn't take into account:
1. All potting medium is unique to their environment, in combination with water and fertilizer.
2. What works for them may not work for me...and visa versa
3. Science and the Extention Agency are wonderful things!!!
I have used the Extension Service - Heck, they taught the Master Gardener course I took and participate in - to solve problems, test for fungi, ID a bug eating one of my plants...but didn't think to ask: what does my soil HAVE and what does it need.
Please remember that this is not JUST about hoyas...we also grow coffee, citrus, palms etc.
So...when we got in a new kind of soil (there is none on this side of the island...just lava which we drill out to make holes and fill with trucked in medium) I suggested we get a soil test. WOW...it was really interesting!!! Now, to the soil, we add calcium, epsom salts (magnesium), gypsum (phosphate) and some other stuff needed by the particular plant we are planting.
From time to time I have had strangely discolored leaves...not many, one or two. I immediately test for virus or fungus. Recently, the leaf discoloration was more widespread...and I immediately thought it was a nutritional deficiency. I had seen this before. Having my soil (potting medium) tested (duh...this is not rocket science) showed that I did have a deficiency in some of the macronutrients that was NOT being addressed by the Fertilizer I was using.
In fact, this fertilizer I was using, was adding to the problems....
1. I have stopped using this fertilizer and will use one recommended (the NPK) by the University with the micronutrients they recommend.
2. I am adjusting my mix to include some of the macronutrients lacking in it
3. I am following guidelines based on the soil analysis....not based on what someone else is using.
So, I guess this all boils down to a chat (lecture?) about using the resource of your County Extension Agency, and their analytical abilities. I use rain water so my pH balance is probably very different to someone living in a city...which would make my fertilizer requirements different etc. etc. etc. We all live in very different environments. What I use in Hawaii to fertilize may be terrible for someone in NYC or S. FL. I don't know.
I urge all of you to get a handle on what medium you are using/water ph/fertilizer properties and balance them.
Yeah, it sounds complicated...but hey, if I can get it, anyone can!!!
Aloha.
Sorry this was so long....
Edited to say these are simply some thoughts...not meant to be instructions nor suggestions. Just meant to alert to an awareness is needed about what you are growing in and with. If it ain't broke...don't fix it. With nearly 2500 plants it has been a challenge.
Of course, with just a few plants, this is not as critical as with a large collection of valuable plants.
This message was edited May 18, 2005 6:34 AM
Lessons being learned
A good lesson for us all. Thanks for sharing your experience, Carol and good luck.
Needless to say, we will always be students of the plant. Good luck, all of your hard work is appreciated by many of us here on DG. Heather
Interesting observations, Carol. That is the beauty of collecting. It gives up the opportunity to grow along with the plants. And yes, it is not rocket science...it is plant science.
In just about every volume of the Hoyan, the editor Christine Burton stressed the benefits of utilization of your local Agriculture Extension Service. It is an untapped potential many hobby growers do not think to utilize. After all an insect, fungus, or a virus is the same regardless if it is in Hawaii, Texas or Tennessee.
Macronutrients are the big three...Nitrogen, Phosphorus and Potassium. I think what you meant to say was Micronutrients, which are the trace elements not commonly found in commercial fertilizers.
The beauty of prepared soil, or soil less mixes, are that the prepared mixes have all the ingredients listed on the label. A soil test is not necessary if one reads the label.
The biggest mistakes I have made is thinking I could find a miracle cure that will work for all my plant collections. I bought massive quanities of coir, spaghnum moss, lava rock, pumice and even floral oasis foam for rooting cuttings. I tried anything I could find thinking a miracle media would solve all my problems. That said, I now use a combination of vermiculite and perlite for rooting, which provides air movement as well as moisture to the roots and simply falls away when it is time to repot the cutting. Hey, it works great for me but may not be the answer for someone else.
I have also tried several different medias to grow my plants in. That, as well, was a huge mistake! I now use only Fafard #3 on all my plants and after reading the ingredients, have learned what macronutrients and trace elements are needed. I can look at the media and tell if watering is needed. I don't even need to touch it.
I have learned the significance of humidity and become a mist-a-holic.
I have learned that any new plant that enters into my collection should be isolated from my other plants for a minimum of 6 months. I have invested too much in my collection to take any chances of a disease or insect infecting my other plans.
Lastly, I have discovered that I would much rather purchase a cutting than a rooted plant. At the end of the day, I have control of the cultural conditions which I know work in my growing conditions.
Actually, Mel, the macronutrients include magnesium and calcium. They are critical.
You are very lucky to find prepared mixes. We don't have a large choice...so I was using what the most successful nursery uses here...and I will continue to. I just know a lot more now...and will continue to learn.
Yes, I know Chris is an admirer and advocate of the Extension Service. At last a novice and an expert agree - me being the novice of course. They tend to be slower than toenails growing to get the answer back to you... Seems there are two levels: those that take care of the Commercial Accounts and those that take care of the JQPublic. In highly agricultural areas, the Agents who handle commercial accounts have a little clout, and rush the lab, but Ms.Mr. Public is fit in where they can. As an individual, it might take 4-6 weeks to get a report back...as a Commercial Account I got it back in 2 weeks. Heaven help the poor nursery waiting for a report of an infestation of some time. I think that's why a lot of people don't use the Extension Service as much as they could...It is important to rattle cages and the squeaky wheel syndrom sets in.
This message was edited May 18, 2005 5:14 PM
I have been to my extension office a couple of times Nailed the local pest control guy who told me I had formosan termites which weren't covered under my pest control contract. Ag office reported back not a termite at all and had the TX State pest control board visit my house. Also had a huge nest of bees in a bird house (hanging from a bungee cord no less) They came to make sure they weren't the killer bees Took a sample, confirmed they weren't, and put me in touch with someone who had the guts to come and get the entire bird house.
They are always helpful and have literature on all kinds of Texas Gulf Coast critters and plants.
Good for you, Susan!!! You have it down, girl!!!!!
Aloha,
Carol
I've never used the extension service because I've always thought that I wouldn't know what to do with the information I get from them.
What can they tell me? What to add to soil, how to deal with pests? Will they be that specific or just give me a report that tells me the composition of my soil.
Is their service expensive?
MaryEv -
The soil analysis costs $10...I believe that is fairly universal. They will tell you the levels of your macronutrients (NPK, Cal, Mag etc.), salinity levels and what to add in what proportions to bring it up to a good (normal) level.
We just received some 'soil' from a new source...and I took the required 2 cups in for another analysis. This is for the garden, not the hoyas. The first one we did told us great information and we make up a cocktail of gypsum, epsomsalts, Granusol, some Dolomite, Chicken manure and top coated the plantings....WOW did they LOVE it!!!
They generally have good handouts....geared for the ag. in your area on just about anything. I couldn't function without the Plant Pathologist here.
With all of this macro/micro nutrient talk, I'm wondering if I prepare my own mix, should I be adding something to it, to get these elements. Or is this taken care of when you add a fertilizer, like Shultz Bloom, Spray n Grow, or Eleanor's V-F 11. I read about the Farfard #3, and it contained a starter fertilizer, what would that be. I worry about trying to rewet this soil less mix if it does dry out. Any suggestions?
Heather
When I started mixing my own, DH took a pH reading on the soil and it was fine...so I never added anything...and everything grew like crazy. When some of my plants started exhibiting some "wierd growth" we tested again. pH was really low. If I had mixed dolomite in with it it would have balanced out...which is what local nurseries do (but the pH indicated I didn't have to). Now I do. The analysis showed that while I had a low pH, I was still lacking in Cal+Mag.... The situation is not desperate...but I wish I would have known earlier.
In hindsite...I would have mixed the soil and taken a pH reading each time...because I feel that the materials can change in their "make up" from batch to batch. And I would add the necessary macros to the mixture. The micros can be added in the form of a good fertilizer with micros. Calcium and Magnesium are important for the proper acidity balance AND it helps the plant absorb the nutrients.
The Starter fert probably has Phosphate and Potassium added.
I certainly don't know a lot about this...just enough to keep me in trouble!!! And, as I said before...what worked for me...may not work for you. The mixes in bags will have their composition broken down on the label.
Carol
Heather,
I am a little confused about what your are asking. One of the reasons I like the Fafard 3 mix is that it wets down easily. I used Pro-Mix for years and did not like the formulation becasue of the reason you listed above. Fafard 3 has 40% processed pine bark, which requires the addition of fertilizers as the media does not hold fertilizers as other medias do. Fafard has several formulations that begin with a 3. I thing the trick is to use whatever works best for your growing conditions. I did not determine what soil mix I liked the best by using any scientific formula. I just learned by trial and error....LOTS OF ERROR!
Thanks! Meltn, I was reading the Farfard web page and it said if it should break down you might have to irrigate the mix. I have no idea what that means. What does the three mean? I guess when science gets used, I start to shrivel up. Panic attacks put me back into that highschool biology class!! Scary! Recently, some of my leaves have been turning yellow, I checked the ph and my reading was like a 6-7, then I checked the ph of my tap water and it seemed normal too. I use lots of fine bark in my mix, along with coir, perlite and I recently invested in some pumice. Now, how do I add to that? With fertilizer?
Heather
I would just add a tsp. of Dolomite to your mixt, some triple 14 slow resease (like a pinch) and water with a balanced fert. with trace elements. Just emember that "if it ain't broke, don't fix it"....
Yeah, science scares the wadding out of me...failed every class I took...that's why I ask lots of questions.
IF you decide to change your mix...try it out first on a plant you can afford to lose. If all goes well, then continue the process. Another lesson I learned the hard way....