what do I do?

Victoria, BC(Zone 8b)

This pink has had so much trouble with spider mites. I've sprayed with hot water. I've soaked it in the tub about 1.5 weeks ago with hot water and soap. I've used Eco-oil, I've used the H2O2/dish soap/MG mix from maviarose, I've used this end-all miticide. The things just keep coming back. It's to the point where over 1/2 of the leaves have dropped off and most of the remaining leaves are looking like they too will drop. It's still blooming.


My question...

Should I cut off a couple of cuttings, get and keep them free of spider mites, incase the whole plant is going to die because of the spider mites. Should I wait to see what happens? What would you, the experienced and knowlegable brug growers do if it were yours?

Thumbnail by MG99
Victoria, BC(Zone 8b)

here's a photo of the whole plant.

Thumbnail by MG99
Rock Hill, SC(Zone 8a)

MG99, I had spider mites on one of mine that they came almost over night. I just bought some Ortho, ready to use, spray for plants that kills all types of pest. They were all gone the next day. And, no sign of them since.

Chariton, IA(Zone 5b)

Keep spraying. Even tho you think the mites are gone, before you can snap your finger, the eggs hatch and away you go again. Another round of mites. I don't know how long it takes for eggs to hatch, but I would get a couple of different kinds of spray and spray every three or four days faithfully. Three times with one kind and then use the other kind three times. Mites can build a resistance to a single spray used many times. If you could find a systemic to put in the soil, that would help. Home Depot carries one that I've used. It only takes about a teaspoon of the fine granules, scratched into the soil and watered. That should take care of keeping them away for six weeks, once you get rid of them.

Raleigh, NC(Zone 7b)

It is possible to get rid of spider mites... with some difficulty. So you should be able to save your plant. You need to treat with a miticide (not insecticide) at the proper strength and apply a follow-up treatment about a week after the first spray to eliminate any survivors. Excessively spraying insecticides (especially broad-spectrum systemics like Orthene) can actually encourage mite infestations because the insecticide eliminates all the beneficial mite predators while leaving the mites unscathed. Also, don't overdo it with the miticides either because mites can evolve resistance. Pest management can be a real pain.

I had problems with mites on my brugs this spring because of hot, dry weather. I tried the "organic" approach, which is to spray the backs of the leaves with a strong blast of water to wash off the mites. Not helpful. Next I tried spraying w/insecticidal soap - also didn't help. Then I ordered some Avid and sprayed with that, it wiped out the mites very quickly. I re-sprayed a week later to catch any survivors. So far the mites have not come back after the Avid treatment. I was wary of using the Ortho systemic (aka Isotox) because it's very toxic and has warnings about severe eye damage - just my luck I'd splash some on myself. Avid is targeted for mites - more of a precision bomb instead of a shotgun like the Ortho. I just wish it weren't so expensive. There is another miticide, Kelthane, that may be less expensive than Avid if you can find it. One downside of both Avid and Kelthane is that they kill only adults - the eggs can survive to hatch later and that's why the follow-up spray is needed. There is an extremely expensive product, Floramite, that kills both mites and their eggs. If I were a professional grower I'd use this but IMHO it's too expensive for the casual gardener.

Victoria, BC(Zone 8b)

OK, thank you one & all, I'll con't with the spraying. I'll check the local nursery for other miticides that I haven't tried. I haven't tried neem yet, I haven't found it here.

Thanks again, I'll let you know what happens.

Linda

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