Everbearing Raspberries

Just recieved some Summit raspberry plants and I just need to know how far apart they should be planted ?
TIA,
>^,,^< SB

id say 1ft apart is good! :)

Brambles
Planting and Culturing Guide
Raspberries, Black Raspberries,
Purple Raspberries, Blackberries
& Tissue Culture Plants

Brambles have the same general requirements as strawberries--well-drained soil and full sun. If your soil is heavier or not well drained, we recommend planting on raised beds.

Planting Brambles
For summer and fall-bearing raspberries, we suggest you set plants 28-30 inches apart in the row and allow a minimum of 8-10 feet between rows. Black raspberries can be set at 2.5-3 feet apart in the row with 8-10 feet between rows. Set blackberries 3-4 feet apart in the row and allow at least 8-10 feet between rows.

Set nursery mature and bare root plants 1-2 inches deeper than they were in the nursery. The soil line around the stem will indicate their nursery depth. Care should be taken that the hole is large enough to allow the entire root system to be covered. Spread the roots out and set at about 2 inches deep. The fine root system should not be allowed to dry during the planting process. This can happen very quickly on a warm, spring day. We suggest soaking the plants for up to 1 hour prior to planting and keep the plants in a pail of water as you plant. We also suggest the use of a product such as Agri-gel to prevent roots from drying. Special Note: New growth on raspberries may not appear for 4-6 weeks. The cane portion of the plant may never leaf out. Check for root development by gently digging 2-3 inches out from the cane of the plant. During this establishment period maintain soil moisture until plants are growing well.

Weed Control
During the growing season, cultivate regularly around plants, but not more than 3 inches deep, because the root system of raspberries and blackberries is quite shallow. A tool called a scuffle hoe is helpful for this purpose. It is also helpful to mulch plants during the establishment year. Straw or plastic mulch helps to conserve soil moisture and cuts down on weed competition. Do not mulch after establishment year. Please consult your Cooperative Extension service for recommendations on chemical control.

Fertilization
For optimum growth and production, thoroughly incorporate light amounts of fertilizer prior to planting. Home gardeners should incorporate 1/2 - 3/4 lb. per 100 square feet of

Trellises
Training and Pruning
We suggest that all brambles be supported by a trellis. We have been successful using a T-bar trellis for fall-bearing raspberries that supports 2 wires 12 inches apart at 3.0 feet above the ground. See the accompanying Diagram 1. Some varieties which are taller such as Canby, Taylor, and Lauren might benefit from a T-trellis with two wires--one at 3 feet and one at 4 feet. Blackberries are best trained to a four-wire trellis (Diagram 2). A trellis keeps canes upright and fruit off the ground, makes picking much easier, and maintains good aeration throughout the planting which helps with disease control. The laterals are wrapped on the wires.

Pruning
Summer Bearing Raspberries
These varieties carry one crop of berries on the overwintering canes during the summer months. For best yields, prune out the canes that carried fruit directly after harvest. Thin remaining new growth to 4-6 strong, healthy canes per running foot of row.

Fall-Bearing
(Primocane-bearing, Everbearing)
These varieties will have two crops. The largest is borne in the fall on the tips of canes which grew throughout the summer. A second crop is then carried lower on those same canes early the next summer. To have two crops, the planting must be pruned as a summer bearer (follow the instructions).

Most everbearers will produce an even better fall crop if not allowed to fruit in early summer. To treat these plants as fallbearers, mow off all the canes after the canes have lost their leaves in very late fall, or wait until early spring. Be sure to cut the canes as closely as possible to the soil surface, leaving as little stub as possible above the ground. The new, strong canes which grow again that summer will bear an abundant fall crop.

Here's the 4 wire trellis:

Thanks all =)

I swore years ago that I would NEVER grow these again. When we bought this ancient farm there was a huge patch completely out of control. Even went as far as driving up and down with the mower cutting paths through the brambles. I fought it a couple of seasons and finally gave up and plowed it under.

Found these Summit Raspberries that can be cut (mowed) down every winter, from RainTree Nursery.
Hope I don't kill em . They also said this will eliminate the small early spring fruit set but encourage a large fall crop ........ so they say.

I like the idea of not over-wintering diseases and pests =)

So Darius,
..............this theory seems to agree with the info you posted. But I like the idea of that trellis also .... I like to make stuff !

Thanks,
>^,,^< SB

Another strange thing ......

When I opened the package of plants, I unwound the root mass and they are almost 2 ft long. These are not necessary ,Right??

I have no clue, but I wouldn't cut them off! I had some on the raspberries I planted that were over a foot long, but that was in poor soil.

Guess Ill just dig a long trench and lay them all in.

p.s. I didnt tell DH what they are yet. He'll be like a lil kid "Are they done yet?? " LOL

I grew everbearing "Autumn Bliss" for around 6 years. You may be able to mow or clip them down every winter, but in the spring they will emerge from the roots, even in places you don't want them to emerge. Be prepared to ruthlessly mow the new little shoots down, if they pop up in the wrong spot. I finally got rid of mine because they were too invasive, it took about 2 years to eliminate all the pop-ups.

Eileen

eileen .. Hah ! Ya just gave me a flash-back ..... LOL
TNX for reminding me of how they get, hopefully I can keep the lil boogers under control this time =))


HEHEHE !
***took about 2 years to eliminate all the pop-ups.***
Get a pop-up killer .......... lol

You'll have to post and let us know how you like the flavor of Summit. I thought Autumn bliss had a good flavor EXCEPT that it seemed somewhat weak or watery compared to others.

Pop-ups: The bad part is, I planted these at the back corner of my lot...so 2 different neighbors had the "joy" of raspberries in their veggie gardens too ... oops!

Heheheh !I'm sure some of us more than once, has thought of strategically placing an invasive plant .... me too, lol

I have some Heritage Raspberries. I have read everything on the internet but there are conflicting entries on pruning. Of course the old canes that bore fruit should be cut back to the ground. But some say to cut ALL the canes back, even the new ones. I would have thought that since they are a summer-bearing raspberry that they would bear next summer on the new growth.
Also, should the new growth be pruned lightly at the tops to encourage side shoots?

This message was edited Jun 30, 2004 4:38 PM

I have an old raspberry that I got from my Hubbie's Grandmother's garden. I don't cut the canes back because one way they propagate is for the top of the cane to fall over and start a new plant at the tip.

Is it a summer-bearing or an ever-bearing

It is a summer bearing. Actually almost most done with the season now.